[dave]

Word up - off to das Burren tomorrow for some routes and some "craic". It all looks well jackson in the guide - anyone got any specific route recommendations or amusing anecdotes? Preferably routes which don't require the stamina of a seal.

[andy_e]

I remember seeing pictures of a crazy roof/plank-type thing sticking out from the top of a cliff, that looks cool. You should climb that. My anecdote is that we were there on a field trip and John and Anne Arran walked past to go climbing. Then we found a bottle of Brahma that looked like it had floated half-way around the world. We drank it. It wasn't amazing.

[dave]

Nice anecdote.

That plank thing is on one of the Aran isles. There's a photo of some guy on it in the current guide, his gear is basically clipped into a rope stretched across the ground which is only a foot above his hands. I.e. looks utter shit unless you had a deathwish and didn't mind soloing it.

[grimer]

HVS
Pis Fluich (means wet cunt)
Nutrocker

E1
The ramp

E2
Skywalker
rollerball

e3
kleptomaniac
sunstone
through the looking glass

e4
wall of fossils (pumpy)
fall of wossils
the older one on miror wall

e5
blockhead
ice queen
eliminator
refraction

[dave]

nice one G, cheers.

[grimer]

as i remember, rollerball, kleptomaniac, sunstone, wall of fossils and refraction are the pumpier ones.

And add Siren for a low stress E2/3 as well.

My experience is that the grades are very friendly there. Holds and gear are good on routes where the look good so a great place to push it a little.

Fantastic place, oh boy!

[SA Chris]

There's also a few probs on the boulders on the Dancing Ledges. Nothing special though. Have a look at where these boulders have rubbed together from the force of the sea.

Be aware Ailladie is tidal and can be inaccessible if sea is big. If you are screwed, go for a wander up to Murroughkilly. Some nice routes, and some amazing limestone pavements.

The pub down the beachfront at Lahinch does good food and is one of the few pubs that sometimes doesn't play traditional irish music.

[dave]

as i remember, rollerball, kleptomaniac, sunstone, wall of fossils and refraction are the pumpier ones.

And add Siren for a low stress E2/3 as well.

My experience is that the grades are very friendly there. Holds and gear are good on routes where the look good so a great place to push it a little.

Fantastic place, oh boy!

stop it you're giving me a hard on.

[dave]

OK Points that have come up:

Der Burren is beautiful, and in august full of yank and bosche tourists.
I couldn't even second Wall Of Fossils cleanly - outragously pumpy, nasty start.
Sirens is very good but piss compared to any of the crack/pumpy E3s. Other than this, didn't find the grades that friendly. But then I'm brought up on routes with no gear.
The weather is variable.
The bouldering is surprisingly good and quite extensive, worth a look in showery nick.
Found all the IRA memorabilia in a pub in Dongal town quite an eyeopener.

Saw your mate pat down there too Grimer (the crag that is, not the IRA pub).

[SA Chris]

You referring to bouldering on dancing ledges on North side of Ailadie itself, or the other spots mentioned nearby in the bouldering guide?

[dave]

No the bouldering at Shaolin (sorry, "Doolin"). Didn't do any on the dancinc ledge, it all looked a bit toss. Amazing how much all those rocks must get tossed around by the sea though.

[SA Chris]

Cool, keen to check Doolin out. Like I said, one or two OK probs, but nowt special.