[TobyD]

is there some sort of jessery involved in getting beyond the point where you are squeezing the base of the wide prow thing?  Or am i just not pulling hard enough?

cheers

[dave]

squeeze, get left foot up to the break, work up to nothing break then go for the jug i think. if you're lucky you'll still have skin on your knuckles after failing.

[TobyD]

:shock: so your L foot is practically level with, and between your hands?
yikes.

[Bonjoy]

The tall will reach the second of the left hand slopers off the good footholds and continue as Dave has described. The shorter can get this sloper by getting the first LH layaway/sloper, then sticking left heel (toe pointing down) waist height, just left of arete, hike weight up onto this, right toe hooking round R arete, slap 2nd sloper. Then it's a tricky udge to get left foot in break and your onto the tall sequence.
 Hope this makes some sense.

[dave]

don't get me wrong, i ain't done it, but i got high up and cofe did it wi this sequence. (assuming you mean the standing start)

start with RH on the thumb press/pinch on the lip. LH on whatever you want. pull on or reach to the first sloper thing out left (the one with the crease). then toe hook RF under right, (LF on the massive ledge) and go again with LH for crap sloper up left. then grab the obvious best bit of right arete with RH. now squeeze hard, walk RF up to pebble in the groove, then lift LF high onto the break rounded hold thing (very high, get stretching). then sit on it, work RH up the arete some then go for the non-break. bring LH up to match (me highpont?) then go for the jug high up.

word

[Bonjoy]

From where you've got to dave, try sticking a left heel on the first LH layaway, it helps (helped me anyway) make the top moves feel less sketchy.

[dave]

don't think i got quite far enough to do that - i was exploding off whilst bringing LH up to match the non-break, still sat on me LF. i imagine the heel will help on the next moves though.

[TobyD]

ok, i think i understand now.  Hopefully it will go down with that short person beta.

muchos gratias hombres.

word

[Bonjoy]

don't think i got quite far enough to do that - i was exploding off whilst bringing LH up to match the non-break, still sat on me LF. i imagine the heel will help on the next moves though.

 I don't match the sloper/break, once i get 2nd LH sloper and left foot in break i go up with RH high on right arete (static with right toe-hook round arete ), then right foot on start pinch/smear, left foot/heel on 1st LH sloper, then up with RH to good hold on rib above.

[dave]

i getcha. might be a bit bunched up fo' me but i'll try it if i can ever be arsed to put myself through the ordeal again. :cry:

[cofe]

I don't match the sloper/break, once i get 2nd LH sloper and left foot in break i go up with RH high on right arete (static with right toe-hook round arete ), then right foot on start pinch/smear, left foot/heel on 1st LH sloper, then up with RH to good hold on rib above.

that's spooky beta man.

i don't reckon dave's way is the 'tall' person's way to do it cos i'm not tall (5'10") and its within (not at limit of) my reach so, to confuse creamtime some more:

pull on wi R pinch and L on pebble, L foot on ledge and R drops into toehook - reach first layaway with L hand, drop right foot into higher toehook and squeeze pinch right into chest - reach sloper wi L hand and pad R hand up arete - R foot on pebble and oick L foot high onto break/edge thing- reach up arete again and then onto break sloper - match this and dog R foot on - then i slapped over wi L hand onto good layaway and caught R hand on arete.

[Bonjoy]

I can just about reach 2nd sloper but then find it harder to get the left foot up.

[Bonjoy]

The tall will reach the second of the left hand slopers off the good footholds and continue as Dave has described. The shorter can get this sloper by getting the first LH layaway/sloper, then sticking left heel (toe pointing down) waist height, just left of arete, hike weight up onto this, right toe hooking round R arete, slap 2nd sloper. Then it's a tricky udge to get left foot in break and your onto the tall sequence.
 Hope this makes some sense.

 Like this:http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/i/13032.jpg

[cofe]

you could be mistaken for thinking that photo had been tilted a bit :wink:

[Bonjoy]

You're not wrong, I get dizzy looking at it.

[cofe]

there - sorted it.

perhaps the caption should read:

"lovejoy back in the caves in OZ, extreme!!!"

[cofe]

oh, it hasn't worked. help?

         

[Bonjoy]

:roll:           :D

[Jim]

you can't link to stuff on your hard disk. you need to put it on the web. try www.uploadit.org for 20 free pictures

[cofe]

</[imagine]photo of lovejoy rotated @50 degrees clockwise[imagine]/>

with caption:

"lovejoy back in the caves in OZ, extreme!!!"  






 :roll: