[Steve R]

Well, thanks to Dustin I did actually shout out quite loud at the comp, something I never imagined myself doing beforehand.  Unfortunately my booing didn't really catch on.  All other aspects great entertainment though, hats off to the organisers.

[Simon Brown]

Well, thanks to Dustin I did actually shout out quite loud at the comp, something I never imagined myself doing beforehand.  Unfortunately my booing didn't really catch on.  All other aspects great entertainment though, hats off to the organisers.

Splendidly put sir 

[boulderingbacon]

well i couldnt give a shit about dustin and his ranting, all i know is that i stood there and cheered every competitor because they all gave it every thing. it was a shame no one English made the finals, that really would of made for a special atmosphere.

[GraemeA]

Would it have been that much of a shame if a Welsh, Scottish or Northern Irish climber had been in the final?

But good on yer for cheering everyone else on, I think thats one of the good things about climbing comps, there seems to be very little seperation of nationalities  both in terms of the climbers and the support from the audiences. Of course a British crowd will always cheer louder for a Brit, as a Dutch crowd cheer louder for a Dutch climber but both crowds always will cheer/applaud everyone. And the way that the climbers support each other is great - guess this is one of the effects of people climbing with each other at crags and gyms.

Best example of the none partisan nature of the athletes is Vail 2008 when Alex Johnson was screaming encouragement at Anna Stohr on the last boulder in the final even though Alex knew that Anna topping would deprive her of 1st place. "I know, I just want to see someone climb that boulder"

[climbingjoe1984]

I think its a real shame that the commentators arn't allowed to say any results over the PA as this removes context from the event. People are going to shout louder if they know that an ascent of a problem secures first place and 70 points clear at the top of the world rankings with 1 event to go (like Kilian Fischhuber this year). I know this is part of the rules of the completion, but a "silent disco" style event would get around this. This would allowed the crowd to get loads more information, which we are used to when watching sport on the TV. This would also allow Big Ron to say what he thinks, rather than risking putting his foot in it by not knowing the (lengthy and detailed) rules and regs.

What do other people think about this as an idea?



 

[slackline]

I think its a real shame that the commentators arn't allowed to say any results over the PA as this removes context from the event. People are going to shout louder if they know that an ascent of a problem secures first place and 70 points clear at the top of the world rankings with 1 event to go (like Kilian Fischhuber this year). I know this is part of the rules of the completion, but a "silent disco" style event would get around this. This would allowed the crowd to get loads more information, which we are used to when watching sport on the TV. This would also allow Big Ron to say what he thinks, rather than risking putting his foot in it by not knowing the (lengthy and detailed) rules and regs.

What do other people think about this as an idea?

I think it will then cost you more to get into the competition in the first place to pay for your "silent disco" results.

[dobbin]

I think its a real shame that the commentators arn't allowed to say any results over the PA as this removes context from the event. People are going to shout louder if they know that an ascent of a problem secures first place and 70 points clear at the top of the world rankings with 1 event to go (like Kilian Fischhuber this year). I know this is part of the rules of the completion, but a "silent disco" style event would get around this. This would allowed the crowd to get loads more information, which we are used to when watching sport on the TV. This would also allow Big Ron to say what he thinks, rather than risking putting his foot in it by not knowing the (lengthy and detailed) rules and regs.

What do other people think about this as an idea?

I think that would rob it of any remaining atmosphere.

[Johnny Brown]

but a "silent disco" style event

No idea what that is, headphones? How about a big screen only visible from the audience with points and scrolling comments/ context/ explanation. The screen last weekend was a bit small and hidden, and had no explanation of what was on it.

[Jaspersharpe]

 

And a #cliffhanger twitterfeed so people could abuse it post stuff like "Go Ned" or "Dobbin iz gey".

[grumpycrumpy]

You should have been there to witness the "irresponsible rabble" scenes at the Broady when the fun police came out and shut down the tunes and wanted everyone to do one home, well good!

The scenes in the park afterwards sounded amazing!! Irresponsible rabble on!!

I've always found it odd that when people are merely doing their job , in this case trying to clear a pub so that they're not in breach of their license , they're described as 'fun police ' ......

[GraemeA]

You should have been there to witness the "irresponsible rabble" scenes at the Broady when the fun police came out and shut down the tunes and wanted everyone to do one home, well good!

The scenes in the park afterwards sounded amazing!! Irresponsible rabble on!!

I've always found it odd that when people are merely doing their job , in this case trying to clear a pub so that they're not in breach of their license , they're described as 'fun police ' ......

Well Sam had arranged it that we could stay until midnight, the fun police cleared us all out at 11.30 in a very rude way. The climbers were not causing any problems and the staff were loudly telling everyone to fuck off home. They were definately out of order.

[GraemeA]

I think its a real shame that the commentators arn't allowed to say any results over the PA as this removes context from the event. People are going to shout louder if they know that an ascent of a problem secures first place and 70 points clear at the top of the world rankings with 1 event to go (like Kilian Fischhuber this year). I know this is part of the rules of the completion, but a "silent disco" style event would get around this. This would allowed the crowd to get loads more information, which we are used to when watching sport on the TV. This would also allow Big Ron to say what he thinks, rather than risking putting his foot in it by not knowing the (lengthy and detailed) rules and regs.

What do other people think about this as an idea?

Different Chief Judges have different opinions about talking about rankings etc. When I am Jury President I tell the MC that they can talk about rankings, the JP last weekend disagrees with this interpretation. This inconsistency needs clearing up and I am certain it will be fairly soon as I mentioned it to Marco (IFSC President) on Monday and he agrees that ranking info is essential. The climbers know what they need to do anyway.

[slackline]

The climbers know what they need to do anyway.

Top out all the problems, non?

[GraemeA]

You know what I mean, both Alex and Alexey knew that if they topped P4 on Sunday they would win with 3 tops

[Percy B]

[erm, sam]

BOOM. That's my daughter Ruby sat on the bench behind the red hoody bloke, eating candy floss at 0.55. Don't know what she thought about the climbing.....

[boulderingbacon]

one last thing i would like to mention is about how the round is scored. it seemed to me that fischuber wasnt the best climber that day but still won because he took less attempts on the problems he did get up. i thought it would be good if the other problems you try were graded on to how high you get(eg give each hold a corresponding number) then if thats equal go to the attempts rule.

[GraemeA]

one last thing i would like to mention is about how the round is scored. it seemed to me that fischuber wasnt the best climber that day but still won because he took less attempts on the problems he did get up. i thought it would be good if the other problems you try were graded on to how high you get(eg give each hold a corresponding number) then if thats equal go to the attempts rule.

So a similar scoring system to Lead. This has been looked at and dismissed for 2 main reasons.
1. If the boulders have significantly different numbers of holds/moves then you can't equate them eg the running jump had 3 handholds whereas boulder #2 (with the drop down at the start) had lots more holds so you could have scored the same for dropping down onto the volume as you would have for topping out on the dyno
2. You can't use Lead scoring when you have loads of volumes or complicated sequences that require multiple hand movements

[Jim]

really enjoyed cliffhanger as did my family. however the climbing comp wasn't really for me. far too loud and I struggled to see cos I was at the back.
good to catch up with a lot of friends I hadn't seen for a while