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Black Rock Sands bouldering knowledge? (Read 5205 times)

lagerstarfish

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Black Rock Sands bouldering knowledge?
June 15, 2011, 06:12:11 pm
I will be staying at the company caravan by Black Rock Sands (Porthmadog) with the family for a few days in July. Not wanting to drive anywhere and will probably be accompanied by small children at all times, so looking to boulder within easy walking distance of the Haven Greenacres site.

I've seen a couple of vids on Youtube and some brief mentions on other sites, but does anyone have any specific info/recommendations/topos/pics on what/where to boulder? Best problems/features?

Will I need a pad, or is there enough stuff with sandy landings or lowish traverses?

I assume that the bouldering is on - is this right?

Thanks in advance folks

cheque

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Having not visited since I was a little kid I've never bouldered there, but I do have the current (2010) Tremadog guide in front of me. It doesn't list problems, just mentions 'easy bouldering and highball adventures with brittle finishing holds'. OS 522 374

It also mentions 'the beach-bound cliff in front of (Criccieth) castle'. 'There are some reasonably distinct vertical lines but the main attraction is the traverse of which harder and easier variations can be concocted to suit the needs of most visitors'. OS 497 376

Pantontino

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There is nothing too startling here but enough for a quick session while the kids play in the sand. It's all very obvious.

One problem at Criccieth is that people tend to set up their beach camps right where you'll want to boulder. An evening visit might be better here.

Borth y Gest has some bouldering too. Mostly a long traverse and one steep section where Huffy did a hard problem.

There are brief details on page 252 of the NWB guide, but the quotes from the Trem guide are spot on (of course, because i wrote them  ;))

If it's raining you could always nip off for a session at Hylldrem which is not too far away. There are also some good easy problems round the back of the upper tier of Pant Ifan.

Pantontino

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Will I need a pad, or is there enough stuff with sandy landings or lowish traverses?

I assume that the bouldering is on - is this right?

Thanks in advance folks

You won't need a pad, just something to keep your feet clean (perhaps a small spot pad) and yes the location is correct.

Muenchener

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I had a little session there a couple of summers ago while Frau & Kind played on the beach, and was deeply unimpressed.

lagerstarfish

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Thanks folks.

people tend to set up their beach camps right where you'll want to boulder. An evening visit might be better here.

I may well take my lamps for some late night bouldering when the kids are in bed - possibly combined with a bit of fishing while the jet skiers are in bed. Now that's proper multi-tasking.

The 2 year old likes to get up early, so we might get some pre-crowd action in.

lagerstarfish

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I had a little session there a couple of summers ago while Frau & Kind played on the beach, and was deeply unimpressed.

It's always disappointing when spotters don't pay attention

andyh

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Had a day there a few years ago, there were some very long traverses of the not very difficult variety, and a large roof that had some fairly straightforward problems on big holds. vaguely remember that when the tide came they became inaccessible so might be worth checking the tide times.

The most fun was being able to drive cars on the beach and my mate's cavalier reaching an unfortunate end when he wrecked the clluth after getting it stuck in the sand.

 

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