[Luthor]

STG  - Get some sport route mileage in the low/mid sevens.
MTG  - F7c Sport route in 2011. Add to the fairly small list of font 7b bouldering ticks.
LTG  - font 7c & F8a

Mon     - busy
Tue     - CH Cornice. Did Martial Music F7a :-)
Wed     - rest
Thurs   - Short bouldering session at the Works
Fri     - Raven Tor. Started working Out Of My Boots. Currently stuck on the crux move.
Sat     - busy
Sun     - 30min Beastmaker session.

[fried]

Another awe-inspiring week.

Monday - work
Tuesday - Indoor session/ weights 3h.
Wednesday - shoulder stuff
Thursday - work
Friday - work/ drink too much.
Saturday - Canche aux merciers. Make the howling schoolboy error of drinking far too much/ not sleeping much and then skipping breakfast and lunch. As to be expected I climbed like shit.
Sunday - long walk + shoulder stuff.

Weight 75.3kg

Roll on the summer...

How embarrassing beaten by 1 min, now I have to beg Slackers for help

[cheque]

STG: E1 on big cliffs this summer- specifically Rock Idol in July. 6C.
MTG:  E2, 7a and 7A before end of 2011.
LTG: Onsighting long E4s before my planned 2013 USA trip.

M- Rest.
T- Mysteriously still not recovered from Sunday. Obliged to stay up late for mate's leaving-to-go-travelling send off. Feel worse as the night prgresses. Uh-oh.
W- Ill.
T- Ill.
F- Ill.
S- Rcovered but don't fancy climbing by any means.
S- Raining all day. Boulder indoors for the first time in months. An excellent reminder of how much I fucking hate indoor climbing. Onthe plus side, being ill doesn't seem to have affected strength or anything.

Crap week. Provided it stops raining, next week can only be better.

[i_a_coops]

very boring, pullups, levers, core etc. back up to 3 one armers on each arm! Got my footbrace off, finally. Four more weeks as an invalid.

[joe dobson]

Aims for the end of summer
1. First font 7c
2. The F7c+ traverse at Longridge

Mon: Small core workout, shoulders tired from sunday and had hard exam next day so rested
Tues: MCC
Wed: Wimberry, managed to do a font 7a problem before the rain then had a fingerboard sess
Thurs: Rest day
Fri: MCC again, short sess before the weekend
Sat: Crushing day at St Bees, managed to do 3 font 7a's. One onsighted, one flashed and one worked. Awesome day!
Sun: Wallowbarrow Crag, did one route before the rain came. Took shelter at pub

Fingers felling better and stronger, think i'm gonna start my fingerboard training soon when i go home for summer.

[shark]

Weight 11.4-7

M
T. AM. Tor. Good cond. Dogged Tin Of then TRed it never felt so strong in my fingers on it. Led Crucifixion with plenty of gas in the tank but a large foothold came off mid-crux. Reworked the move. 2nd redpoint - much warmer fell on snatch for edge above roof. Tried to TR TinOf again but too warm and bailed at crux. Eve. Belayed Poppy at Edge and did some campus work.
W. Noon. Some DB work and a board endurance set.
T. AM. Physio re sore shoulder. Noon. Nettle buttress. 3 redpoint attempts on Toys4Boys 
F. Eve Tapas meal at Cubana and one reluctant dance
S  All day at Nettle Buttress. Struggling on finger switch in pocket like last year. Realised I was trying to stack the fingers as an undercut rather than just sticking them in  Got past the switch on 5th redpoint and fell on snatch above for a crimp. Eve. Pub meal at the Millstone with family.
S. AM Back to Nettle. Chris205 kindly came across to belay. 2 redpoint attempts falling the same place as previous evening. Started chucking down with rain. Had a couple of goes on Big Zipper but knackered. Got told about a kneebar on Toys  sounds unlikely but obviously worth investigating

Good week and close on both projects. Continued with moderate dieting from previous week but setback with the tapas meal on fri. Hopefully get out this week to close out one of the projects but as Sonia is away from weds am onwards and thru the weekend will require some juggling. Sore shoulder diagnosed as misaligned shoulder made worse by tight upper pecs - fairly straightforward to correct.

[pyrosis]

STG: Become consistent with non-climbing fitness practices, Font 7B on two different rock types (one to go)
MTG: Font 7C by the end of the year

M: Bouldered @ happy boulders. Sent Mr Witty 7A. Worked Every Color You Are 7A, Morning Dove White 7A+, Redrum 7A+
T: Bouldered @ Lee Vining, some granite glacial erratics near the creek in the aspens. Beautiful setting, climbing not too impressive. Had an ok hamburger and an amazing milkshake, then sat in the hot springs and drank wine. Enjoyable day though I do wish we had gotten more climbing in.
W: Work
T: Drove around the Sherwin Plateau area looking for new boulders. Found a lot of underbrush to scratch the fook out of my truck, and not a whole lot worth climbing. Ended up @ the Dreamers boulders for a bit of a session, didn't climb too much of note.
F: Work
S: bouldered @ Mono Mills, a new area near Mono lake. Super psyched to get the tour, really good climbing on unique rock in a beautiful setting. Nabbed the 4th ascent of a 6C roof. Tried for the FA on a problem that is probably 6C and scary but couldn't finish it.. Remains undone.
S: work

next week will involve more work and raving, probably no climbing at all. Might be good to have a week off.. Then a weeklong road trip to the Lost Rocks of the Cali coast, featured in the movie Spray

[Barratt]

Mon: campus at lunch. Felt off but went well.
Tues: bit of a monster session on new pinks down works. Felt quite strong despits being a bit off colour.
Wed: Ill
Thur: Ill
Fri: supposed climbing trip cancelled. Still ill but head out to raven tor to see boys, get on saline and tick it, not all bad then.
Sat: heavy drinking session cancelled, Ill.
Sun: fathers day present was GP tickets. Force myself to ride down. Pisses it down, ride back early in horrendous conditions... On the upside the Italian engineering didn't let me down:)

Crap week, highlight ticking saline despite being Ill. Sunday was horrid and feel even worst as a result. Hoping to get better quickly, get back training!

[duncan]

Power Club 69

STG: Comici - Cima Grande
MTG: E5 this summer

M - 10 mins gentle rehab. climbing
T - short run
W - 10 mins gentle rehab. climbing
T - short run
F - Pembroke - HVSs between showers
S - Pembroke - E1s & HVSs (and backed-off Rizla at The Castle.  Seemed like a sandbag - anyone done this?)
S - short run

Back climbing after 6 weeks off due to various niggles, not surprisingly felt a little clunky on rock but aches and pains all OK.  4 weeks to get fit for Italy.   

[jamiev]

2011 goals include:
-Lots of quality 7as - bs. (2011 so far 1x7a+onsight; 1x 7a+/b redpoint; 2x7a+ redpoint; 6x7a redpoint; 1x7a flash)
-F7c sport redpoint, F7a onsight (? x1 7a+ onsight in france in April)
-Several summer trad goals incl Resurrection.

Mon-
Tues- Works for hour. Did 20 of the black problems then p/e circuits: 1 x 7a+;  3 x top of 7c into top of 7a+ (?7b). 220 moves total ish
Weds- 1 mile run with sprint intervals. 20 minute continuous general conditioning & core circuit.
Thurs - Cheedale Cornice. War memorial to warm up. Did Martial Music 1st redpoint attempt today, putting clips in. Pleased with this after coming close last saturday. Great technical route and good contrast to 'whose line' which was also superb.
Fri - 1 mile run with sprint intervals. 20 min continuous general conditioning & core circuit. Swim 10 lengths w/ son.
Sat - Morning family walk in sun, rain and hail. Late PM Cheedale Cornice. Usual warm up on war memorial, then got stuck into Old Man River.  Couple of dogging goes to top, got crux figured out, quite a taxing move for a short weak punter like me. Need to ensure climb smoothly through bottom burly section. Good route, looking forward to RP attempt this week.
Sun - took son climbing at Foundry; didn't do anything myself.

[chris05]

Haven't posted for a couple of weeks due to being in Scotland visiting parents.

Goals (2011):

10 x 6C (4 done)
5 x 7A (1 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B

Injury rehab/prevention:
Stick with elbow/shoulder theraband work
Work on knee and up running mileage again

M: Bouldering at Notts wall & theraband
T: 4m run, core (630) & theraband
W: swim (40l)
T: nothing
F: nothing
S: travel to scotland
S: 4.5m trail run, press-ups & pull-ups

M:Tried to go bouldering but forgot shoes so went for a walk instead!
T: 6m cycle, swim in very cold river, 4.5m trail run
W: Bouldering at Tom Riach
T: 15m hilly cycle
F: 4.5m trail run, bouldering at Cuca boulder and another swim in a very cold river
S: travel back from Scotland
S: Felt ill and it was raining so had a very lazy day.

Loads on at the moment so no proper return to training for another couple of weeks. I am at a conference in US from Friday until the following week so will just try to get out for a run or use the gym as much as possible. Wont be posting again for two weeks.

[Falling Down]

Realising how much the travel and long days of my job take it out of me and make any attempt at a structured training plan almost impossible.  That said, a pretty good week.

M - Run 45 mins
T - 2.5 hours in gym and fingerboard
W -
T - DOMS in buttocks! Was walking like a cowboy!
F - Run & light fingerboard
S - Planned to climb but domestic requirements in intervened.  Great road bike ride though and feeling fitter.
S - Rest after stag night... 

Back to 12.5 stone... need to get out climbing this week to discover the psyche again.

[nai]

Aims

M - tried Obscene Toilet, crux felt absolute nails, just about devised a sequence, all very reachy and tenuous, but couldn't link it.  Not a great route and probably 7c+ for me, others preferred, won't be rushing back.  Skulked away to Rubicon to throw laps on the traverse, failed on 6th set resting 2mins between goes.  Rested 5 mins then failed again.
t
w
Th - an ill-advised Works session with a day out to come, tried to work out some 4x4 circuits without great success.  Had no energy, probably a result of trying to attain my fighting weight over the last 10 days.
F - Cornice - knew it wasn't going to be a good day when I needed 2 rests on the 6c warmup at Max's. Worked Cry of Despair, only decent link was from floor to undercuts but I did all the actual moves.  Initial thought is that it might be too much for my current fitness level but if there is a no-hand rest at the undercut then it's only about 14 moves into the bodywedge which might be feasible if you can leave them with non-greasy hands.  Eve: 400 core
s
S - works 10 x 18 move problem, 1:30 rest, few other bits to get properly pumped. Eve - 320 core.

Probably won't be touching rock again for a couple of weeks so plan is to do as much CoD specific PE training as possible and try not to get too heavy despite a few celebratory meals to partake in. Then get back on Cry Of Despair and crush it.

[tomtom]

shite week...

Nothing except Friday - trip to the Tor...
Failed to repeat saline drip - despite ticking the final hold a few times.. tore a chunk out of the heel of my palm, and split a tip
Happy days!!
Weekend in Londinium drinking and talking..

Bah. Humug.

[Big Dave]

Mon -
Tue - weights at gym
Wed - hangs/repeaters at home
Thu -
Fri -
Sat - Bouldering Hobson Moor
Sun - weights at gym

[tommytwotone]

STG - Tick the Cliff up to 6c+ in most recent guide
LTG - Font 7b

M - Gym session, mini "gymathlon" and then shoulder free weights / core.
T - Board session, excellent - top psyche and good probs. Did 3 x 4 laps on prob to finish, felt cooked.
W - Cooked. Night off, meatballs, arrabiata sauce and a glass of red for tea.
T - House viewings, then impromptu session at Cliff as it was cool and breezy. Excellent nick, got utterly spanked by Virgin Traverse and left in a huff. Went home, bought beers / pizza and sulked.
F - Gym session, less cardio in favour of more weights / core.
S - Back to Cliff, top day - cleaned up roof problem left of DWR, easier Fieldside probs and finally got Virgin Traverse.
S - Nowt, as packing / travelling to Linton Travel Tavern for work.

[andybfreeman]

STG - back to fitness, mileage and finger rehab
MTG - 7C and 8a

M and T - rest
W - pull ups and core at home
Th - An experimental deadhanging session - dodgy finger felt completely fine as I was pulling straight down
F - pull ups and deadhangs at home
Sa - rest
Su - TCA session - circuits. Felt heavy and lethargic but finger held up well . Watching Senna tomorrow night so will rest tomorrow but then I need to get back into a regular pattern of exercise.

Weight must be creeping up but didn't weigh in this morning

[heelhookofglory]

M: REST
T: Beastmaker session. 2 sets of repeaters; 4F open, 3F open, 4F sloper. Felt weak tonight but then I've been tired all day.
W: Wicked session down at Churnet (Virgin Wall and Wright's). V0 -- V4 and very nearly my V6 project! Dammit, so close, last sequence! Felt really strong all-round tonight.
T: Beastmaker session. 3 sets of repeaters; 4F open, 3F open, 4F sloper. Felt stronger than Monday.
F: Beastmaker session. 3 sets of repeaters; 4F open, 3F open, 4F sloper. Hands slipping quite a bit on the slopers.
S: 22km, 502m ascent, 1800 cals, MTB ride at Cannock Chase. Good fun day out, 'rest' day.
S: Great early morning easy circuit at Churnet, 11 problems ranging V0 -- V3.

Weight: 144.6 lbs (goal: 140 lbs)

[205Chris]

STG: Powerplant

M: Foot on campussing at the works
T: Routes at the Edge
W: Nada
T: Practice Powerplant style crux moves on my garage board
F: Nada
S: Cornice. Warm up and put the clips up powerplant. Manage 2 redpoint attempts resulting in a new highpoint at the 4th bolt. 3rd redpoint attempt is rubbish so sack it off for the day.
S: Cornice. Shark returns the belaying favour in the afternoon while I get back on Powerplant. Luckily someone has their draws in place so do it in 2 halves to warm up. First redpoint go I fail to get through the crux. 2nd redpoint go I'm past Friday's highpoint and staring at the last hard move. LH latches the crimp but I know I've got it wrong and can't adjust. Fall off. Balls.

Making steady progress on Powerplant, would be nice to get closure in the next couple of weeks though.

[webbo]

Mon.Bike 2 hours.
Tue.Rockcity new problems not bad session did v5 and v6+
Wed.Rockcity again did another v5.
Thu.Nothing other than drinking fizz to celibrate my birthday.
Fri.Rockcity repeated a v5 and the v6+ plus doing most of the v2s and v3s some of which seem harder than the v5s.
Sat.Shopping in york.
Sun.Leeds wall did 3 reds and all the greens.Good session.Then drive to Warrington and back to visit my mum.

[mark s]

Mon-shoulders-tri's
Tue-back
Wed-roaches with andi and adam L,potter and boulder
Thu-chest,bi's
Fri-legs
Sat-hen cloud with andi,didn't take boots out of bag :-(
Think I need to get to some new places to boost keeness.
Weight 14st10lb (up 2lb this wk)

[Muenchener]

STG: Overhanging pumpy 6b redpointflash
   Alpine multi-pitch in Oberreintal in two weeks: find out what I can handle on multipitch non-sport - it's about 15 years since I did any trad. Anything above UIAA V would be nice.
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein.
     Overhanging pumpy 6b onsight
   250 (proper) practice falls (on rope) in 2011. Current score: 43
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl
Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp

M:
T: Bike to work, 26km
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. A strange evening. Focused on overhanging pumpy stuff, on which I am weak, and confirmed that yes, I have no endurance. Except that in the midst of failing on a whole bunch of easier stuff, I flashed a 6b
T:
F: Bouldering, office gym. Aerocap traversing. Weights: rotator cuff, reverse wrist curls, core
S: yoga
S: School half term: farmhouse in the mountains with kids. Hillwalking, active rest.