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[Peak][Burbage South][Stasis][7b] (Read 2701 times)

Percy B

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[Peak][Burbage South][Stasis][7b]
June 10, 2011, 01:15:03 pm
Very nice and bizarrely over-looked wall just right of the start of Equilibrium. Climb up the obvious arching undercut feature and gain the ledge, either with a super long reach for the tall, or by a spicy dyno. The landing is not too bad - 3 pads and a spot makes it safe as houses. There is a good hold in the back of the ledge - once you get this you can either scuttle off right into the chimney and escape, or mantle the ledge to an obvious jug and then scuttle off. The mantle is dirty and pretty 'engaging', so you're best off finishing on the ledge as the mantle adds little difficulty, but is plenty scary!
Hard to grade, so I'll say 7b, but its going to be a lot harder for the short. Its a really nice feature on some very good quality rock, and well worth doing. Just in time for the guidebook......oh......

slackline

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#1 Re: [Peak][Burbage South][Stasis][7b]
June 10, 2011, 01:24:34 pm
Just in time for the guidebook......oh......

You might be in luck, I'm starting to wonder if it has actually been printed!  :P

SA Chris

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#2 Re: [Peak][Burbage South][Stasis][7b]
June 10, 2011, 01:38:20 pm
Surely easiest to just traverse left to the arete and then top out?

T_B

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#3 Re: [Peak][Burbage South][Stasis][7b]
June 10, 2011, 03:18:22 pm
Very nice and bizarrely over-looked wall just right of the start of Equilibrium.

Not sure it has been overlooked, but dunno if it was ever done. I certainly remember looking at it over 15 yrs ago when I was at uni and we went to Burb s all the time but can't remember whether or not we did it. Seem to remember a 'funny' landing though - maybe a block below it?

Percy B

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#4 Re: [Peak][Burbage South][Stasis][7b]
June 10, 2011, 04:48:33 pm
Didn't look like it had ever been cleaned, the amount of shite we brushed of it. There is a funny block under the problem, but its amusement value is greatly reduced 2 or 3 pads. Its very hard to get onto the undercuts - the first move is pretty hard, so I think this might have put people off from trying. I thought it was going to be much harder than 7b on first acquaintance, but it isn't!

cofe

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#5 Re: [Peak][Burbage South][Stasis][7b]
June 10, 2011, 05:43:12 pm
I've been on it and I know a couple of other people too. 7b seems a tough grade, but a bit of reach might help, although I can't remember as it's been a few years. Will get back in the autumn.

Good effort though - definitely an obvious gap that needed plugging. I like the name too.

Percy B

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#6 Re: [Peak][Burbage South][Stasis][7b]
June 20, 2011, 08:28:01 pm
Did this again today for a photo - maybe 7b is a little uncharitable...
Mind you, its very unlikely to be down-graded. Maybe 7b+ is a little closer the mark?

 

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