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[Churnet][Gentleman's Rock][Johnny Nyeff Nyeff][7b] (Read 2251 times)

Bonjoy

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Did this on Sunday, mostly because I liked the lip hold on Limp Lizard but the move off it seemed a bit reachy and basic. The new thing goes  left from the same start holds.
Start in the slot as per LL, cross to slopey lip crimp, make hard move to crimp out left, slap sloper with right, then out to finish on finish jugs of The Nose.
Spent ages trying it with the wrong beta before figuring the way and hence it's even harder than usual to guess at a grade. It might be 7b+. The climbing is very nice though.
« Last Edit: May 03, 2011, 08:38:48 am by Bonjoy »

dave k

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Cool. I will have a look next time I make it down there. I had a look at trying to extend the mega traverse along to that lip hold on Limp Lizard, but never managed it. Sounds like the crimp you were using out left was what i was moving right from.

jowgli

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Sounds wkd, we were down the other day and were intrigued by that chalked LH crimp, will defo have a crack at the nyeff nyeff next time  :)

 

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