[ShortRound]

Hello,

Just a quick question......

I did big marine today by reaching the starting crimps off the little wooden ladder. Is the jump start now the only valid type of ascent or can I pat myself on the back for doing it off the ladder?

Thanks.

[Andy F]

It's marginally easier from the ladder, but purer from the jump. Both are valid.

[ShortRound]

Sweet, thanks.

I'll give the jump start a go next time I'm there. Didn't fancy it with a recovering finger today.

[tomtom]

OK, been playing on this for a couple of sessions. Seen the vids by Adam, Rman and a couple of others...

Deadpoint from the starting holds to the sloping flatty now wired. Looks like there are two methods then, RHeel on starting holds (but my RH is still in the way - I start sharing the right starting hold) or left toe on a largish nubbin or edge out left then drop weight right under the sloper (I may be a little tall/bunched for this but feels like a go-er) and reach up with the right for the pocket hold.

Left toe on feels more likely to me, but that slopey flatty felt soo soo soo slick today... I didnt want to let go with my right. Is this a 'wait for the right condtions'/man up my slopey flat hold holdability - or am I missing something? or is there a radical third way....

Its all feels a bit Trump or Clinton at the moment

[Probes]

Slightly different beta the way i do it, once you have the sloper with the left bounce the right hand over to make room for the heal. Yes the sloper can be super slick if its been in the sun, its bomber in good conditions..
Here's my method albeit coming in from the sub start..
There's sneaky beta for the slap to the top to make it less intimidating/ankle breaking.. bar your right knee into the wall.. 

[nai]

Regardless of whether there are other ways you should really only do it using the right heel method.  It's such a cool move, using other beta should be deemed invalid.

[tomtom]

Cheers both. Felt really soapy today (could be rock/skin combo) and I slipped off quite a few holds. Hadn't thought about bumping the Rh over. I've tried it with my rh on the left of the gold at the start, but I don't make the deadpoint that way...

Not sure how the heel move feels (as I've not done it!) but the toe out left and flag feels like a good move too. Heel it is.

[moose]

In the past, I've only ever got the pocket with the heel on but found it a bit fiddly and a little scary - very tenuous position with feet high and a prospective cocyx bash (and I invariably chickened out of going for the gaston anyway). 

You might be right re conditions though, I was trying it again on Sunday and greased off the sloper everytime; and on Fertile Delta couldn't commit to the move to the sika'd hold from the slopes (and I had been hoping to put away the sitter).  Shame really - it felt like conditions should be tres bon (cool, slight breeze) but the holds all felt rather toothpasty, no matter how assiduously I tried to remove the accummulated chalk.  Still, finding an alternative means of doing Mr Skin has thoroughly reawakened my love of ledge-shuffly linkage.