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Arco bouldering (Read 6202 times)

Muenchener

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Arco bouldering
April 25, 2011, 09:35:53 pm
Could you suggest any english info on the Bouldering spot. I'm going to Arco in a couple of weeks and didn't really think there was any bouldering.

Arco certainly isn't a bouldering destination by any stretch of the imagination. Should one, however, find oneself here and lacking sufficiently motivated climbing partners over the age of eight, all is not lost. From what I could find, there are two areas that are worth a visit:

Placche Zebrate. Directly underneath the multipitch crag of the same name. From Arco drive north past Dro and through the next village, until you reach the bar Placche Zebrate on the right. Car park on the left where a path leads into the woods. Comprehensive topo here. The upper sectors are probably more pleasant, being too far for the dirty cnuts bivvying the carpark to walk for a crap.

Passo San Giovanni. If you have the sport climbing guide in English, this is the same place as the climbing area. Some of the boulders are a bit bigger and have bolts. Otherwise: a kilometre or so past Nago on the road to Rovereto is the road sign for Passo San Giovanni. On the left there isn't a bar of the same name, but rather a building site where the bar is being re-built. Opposite is a parking spot. To the right of the building site on the north side of the road is a picnic table and a path leading into the woods. After a few hundred metres is the first big boulder. Next to it is a noticeboard with topo. Online "update" topo, which I found more confusing than helpful, here.

The boulders at Prabi - directly above the main Arco campsite - look like they were good once, but they're very polished now.
« Last Edit: April 25, 2011, 09:57:54 pm by Muenchener »

webbo

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#1 Re: Arco bouldering
April 26, 2011, 12:54:17 pm
Only going off thread a few hundred miles.Do you know any interweb sites where I might find info on bouldering anywhere near Bielefield give or take 50 miles.
Cheers.

erm, sam

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#2 Re: Arco bouldering
April 26, 2011, 01:36:30 pm
Thanks! I don't think we will quite have time to fit it in, but its always good to know..

Muenchener

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#3 Re: Arco bouldering
April 26, 2011, 02:04:05 pm
Only going off thread a few hundred miles.Do you know any interweb sites where I might find info on bouldering anywhere near Bielefield give or take 50 miles.
Cheers.

Yes, but only auf Deutsch: kletternimnorden.de has info for a quarry in the Teutoberger Wald. Click on Teutoberger Wald -> Bielefeld -> Halleluja-Steinbruch

If it's raining or dark there's a good bouldering room in the German Alpine Club wall, Speicher1.

webbo

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#4 Re: Arco bouldering
April 26, 2011, 04:22:06 pm
It looks like it might be a case of leaving the pad at home if thats all there is.What do the locals at the wall do,go to Font or the Phaltz.

Muenchener

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The discovery in one of the shops of a nicely produced little "Arco Bouldering GuidebookPamphlet" describing the boulders below Monte Colodri motivated me to send kids & Frau to the castle and brave polish & showers this afternoon. I was pleasantly surprised. Some of the problems were indeed very polished - for example a 6A+ on which I managed the Stoneyesque feat of failing to get off the ground on slightly sloping footholds and inch or more across - but others weren't, and some were polished but sufficiently overhanging to climb in the rain, for example traverse #40 at 6B yyfy. Definitely worth a visit.

webbo

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#6 Re: Arco bouldering
April 29, 2011, 03:23:19 pm
Only going off thread a few hundred miles.Do you know any interweb sites where I might find info on bouldering anywhere near Bielefield give or take 50 miles.
Cheers.

Yes, but only auf Deutsch: kletternimnorden.de has info for a quarry in the Teutoberger Wald. Click on Teutoberger Wald -> Bielefeld -> Halleluja-Steinbruch

If it's raining or dark there's a good bouldering room in the German Alpine Club wall, Speicher1.

Do you know anything about any of the other areas on that site.There seems to be a lot of blocks at Hartz Okertal.I can work out that not all the areas have topos but does it have directions to the crags.

Muenchener

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#7 Re: Westphalia bouldering
April 29, 2011, 04:20:03 pm
Do you know anything about any of the other areas on that site.

'friad not. I was only in the area midweek in winter, for work, so finding out where the climbing walls were was sufficient.