so, in 4 months (early september) i want to be able to do the following:
INDOOR wall, sport climbing.
6c o/s, 8 minutes to climb it
8 min rest
7a o/s 8 min
8 min rest
7a o/s 8 min
i want this task to be as easy as possible. Ideally the three routes should feel like a path, more realistically like a nice warm up routine.
current level (today) :
steep 6c o/s slight pump at the end. Climbed very fast (3 min?)
8 min rest
fingery less steep 7a+ : failed at first serious crux. Feeling like not totally recovered.
8 min rest
steep 6c+ almost entirely o/s, failed near the end, climbed pretty fast.
Rest of the session : felt good on anything reasonably steep and incut. Climbed too slow on vertical stuff and had big issues with moist skin : any hold requiring skin friction felt desperate.
so, would you have ideas for a training plan, knowing that i'll be training on a bouldering wall and i don't give a fuck of my outdoor performances in this 4 months period?
for the shin issue : is anthydhral worth trying or it'll make my skin too hard for plastic? any other miracle cream/antiperspirant agent? Should i purposely stop brushing holds and only climb on moist chalky holds?
really puzzled, as i've always trained to perform outdoors, on a single ascent...
