[tommytwotone]

Thought I'd get in as, well, I've nothing better to do on a Sunday evening!

LTG: Font 7b by end of 2011
STG: Tick all Cliff problems up to 7a in the latest Yorkshire bouldering guide

M: Nowt, made a nice curry
T: Watching the mighty Spartans play at Harrogate Town - honours even, an admirable 2-2 draw.
W: Depot session, got spanked by most of the new Red (V5 - V7) circuit
T: Depot session, got spanked by a few fewer of the Red (V5 - V7) circuit
F: Rest, bangers and mash and a beer
S: Shipley Glen - onsighted a few 6a / 6b probs, got Manson's wall in 3 goes - good day, felt positive coming home
S: Cliff reality check - failed on Virgin Traverse after turning the corner, did knock off the little 6a thing by the wall though. A fair few more to go to complete the challenge!

[shark]

Thanks Tommy

Weight 11.7-8
Aims
Aims
Thanks Tommy


M. Eve Foundry Wave. Decided to have a bit of fun and seiged a problem with Keith
T.  Eve. Edge. 4x4's. Overcooked it by trying 7a+'s and burnt out so stopped in 3rd set.
W. REST
T. Day. DB/Max hangs session - some good progress on assisted fingertip one armer. Evening. Foundry with Poppy. Some bouldering on Wave and two sets of 4 reps of PE circuit. Poppy Tr'sd a 5+   
F. Eve. Foundry. Routes. Worked sections of White 7c and Pink 7c+. Better than the previous time trying this.
S. REST. Eve 
S. Malham. Bit hungover. Did F&E to warm up. Started to get the old excitement for Malham back. 3 dogging sessions on Baboo - finally got a method and sequence that works. Quick work up the Oak - went really well. Syked.

Easier week this week. Fingers and shoulders could do with the rest.

[i_a_coops]

STG: sort finger out, see what the holds are like on Bum Dragon (yes, I do want to do this problem purely for the name)

M-T - nowt

Friday - am: 4x4s on slopey problems. Could have been worse.
            evening:Cold water treatment.

Sunday - cold water treatment.

Finger is continually switching between feeling fine to being a bit dodgy, definitely getting better though - at this rate I'm hopeful for next weekend. It seems to prefer climbing to undoing zips.

Plan for this week is to eat loads, do pullups, keep sticking my hand in cold water, go running and maybe have a quick bimble on the sandstone.

[Muenchener]

STG: Power Endurance Phase of Winter Training Plan.
   Redpoint 6b+ (probably indoors) before Easter
          200 practice falls before Easter. Current score: 47
   275 points in next boulderwelt comp on 19th March
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein. 6b os in Arco at Easter
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl

M: Half term family holiday. Snowboarding, Alpbach
T: Snowboarding, yoga
W: Day off from family holiday. Attempted to go actual bouldering in actual boulders in Zillertal. Ginzling Wald landings wihhout mat or spotter were too scary, and the road to friendlier areas above Ginzling was still too icy. Ended up on plastic at Tivoli in Innsbruck PE session, managed a crimpy 6b+ traverse in 3 goes, which may or may not be a good sign for 6b onsight in Arco in 5 weeks.
T:  Snowboarding
F: Snowboarding, yoga
S:
S: Bouldering, boulderwelt. Warm-up / pre-comp mental training: flash 25 straightforward problems & jump off; no downclimbing allowed. PE: 2x2 on two different 40-move 5C circuits. Reasonably sustained 6bs shouldn't have climbing on them much above 5C, surely?

I have snowboarded a lot less than I have climbed - maybe a hundred days in total - but I notice that when I'm snowboarding, I think about technique a lot and do drills most of the time when I'm on easy ground. I also notice how quickly technique goes to pieces when I'm frightened or tired. Such a conscious approach to climbing would probably do no harm at all.

[Barratt]

Mon: nowt
Tues: gardoms. Few new ticks including 7a, 7a+ and a hard 6c (pogles wood). Good session.
Wed: lunchtime circuits at edge. 5x6c 5x7a
Thurs: potter around matrix with Mrs Barratt
Fri: rest
Sat: matrix on the new problems, okish session.
Sun: brief circuit session at edge. 5x6b 5x6c 5x7a+ with 3 mins rests.

Fairly solid week. I'm struggling to climb three days on without aches and pains, will have to be careful. Probably only doing a short easy lunch circuit session on tuesday this week as, weather permitting hoping to get to Wales Thurs/Fri, fingers crossed! Away in the sun next week for deserved rest

[Falling Down]

M - Sports Massage - Ow.... very deep into back and shoulders.
T - Sore
W/T - Nowt.... Work and travel, felt tired
F - Row, Barbell Routine (Snatch, C&J, Front Squats and Push Press) Row.
S - Bouldering at Plantation, lots of classics inc Dope on a Slope again.  Had several attempts on Nightsalt with Lagerstarfish and a guy called Chris from Mcr who I think posts on here.  Couple of goes at Deliverance but feet and legs felt tired.
S - Easy trad at Millstone in the afternoon sunshine then charged back home for the FA cup.

[webbo]

Week off work.
Aims get fit.
Mon.Bike 3 1/2 hours.
Tue.Bouldering Froggat.Did a problem I'd failed to link last year.Did it from standing then linked after I managed the first move 3rd go.Not going too bad for first time out this year.
Wed.Weights.bBke 2 hours.
Thu.Bouldering Rockcity just repeated stuff 25 problems.
Fri.Bouldering Churnet.Did a lot of exploring and not massive amounts of climbing although did spend quite alot of time trying some desperate v4 which was a bit out of condition.walked miles.
Sat.Bouldering Rockcity repeated stuff 2 x 16 1 x 3.
Sun.Dumbell weight session.Bike 2 1/ 2 hours.
I now realise I don't get tired from training I get tired from work.Need to retire.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Same...

M: Rest
T: Weights session at a Gym while on a works outing - Everyone else was in the bar and I was FEELING THE BURN!!
FWIW I fucking hate gyms and especially the posers in the weights areas.. Cocks! There were some DFBWDGC tho;-)
W: Nowt
T: AeroCap @ The Works - Sorry if it was you whose way I got in while doing my 4 x 10 minute sets on the back wall.. 
F: 4x4's @ The Foundry with the overlord - Had to cut it short due to... Well lets just say the missus wasn't in the best of moods.
S: Nowt
S: Swim AM wit boy, Boulder @ Burbage PM - Beautiful, and surprisingly peaceful afternoon - Totally rinsed the 7a slab on the pock block (that I'd fallen off the top of last year) first try... YYFY! Tried some other stuff which didn't go quite so well.. Great to be out on grit again!

An easy week within the training programme but looks like I still did a fair bit.. Great to get out on grit for the first or maybe second time this year!!! And nice to actually tick summat.

This week: Ramp up the training again.. AeroCap, AnCap, Power, Fingers, Weights... 

:D

[fried]

Goals 6A in da forest.

Also would like to not drop two grades on anything overhanging, so really should get back on the steep stuff now my shoulders 'seem' to be improving.

Monday - Shoulder stuff
Tuesday - nowt
Wednesday - Indoor session, 2h bouldering, 1h weights/core
Thursday - nothing
Friday - Buy some anasazi blancos to start wearing in, ready for an early Font slab attack.

Saturday - Indoor session, the blancos are strange, the last pair of shoes I climbed in this stiff were kamet Joshua trees, my heel aches in them for some reason. 2h bouldering/ 1h weights/core.

Sunday - shoulder stuff

NNFN - discovered that my oesteopath is not covered by my health insurance, so need to find a physio, which is.

The  weather looks good this week, I'm not working on Wednesday, so I'll be out all day looking for unpolished rock, think i'll check out a couple of  places I've never been:- Rocher de Bouligny and North Coquibus/ Montrouget.

[Luthor]

STG  - Stay psyched (going well so far), train hard, not get injured...
MTG  - F8a Sport route in 2011. Add to the fairly small list of font 7b bouldering ticks.


Mon     - Lunchtime bouldering at Works. Approx 30 problems
Tue     - Gardoms. Ticked Mark's Roof for the first time and repeated MRLH.
Wed     - Rest
Thurs   - Circuits at Lunchtime - bad session / tired. Play at Higgar Tor in the evening.
Fri     - Rest
Sat     - Rest

Good week. Nice to get outside and really pleased to have done Mark's roof :-)
Sun     - busy/rest

[andybfreeman]

STG - finger rehab
Otherwise goals as before

M-W - rest, cold water treatment
Th - light circuits session at tca. mainly lots of laps for general fitness + some hover training holding locks for 3-5 secs before taking next hold
F-Sa - rest + rugby and fa cup on tv
Su - another light session at tca. did 3 laps of circuit if 40 black problems (easy) to try and break monotony of circuits on jugs

Weight - TBC, couldn't face weighing myself this morning!

[pyrosis]

STG: become consistant with non-climbing fitness practices: stretching, running, prehabilitation, antagonist exercise
MTG: v6 on both tuff and granite, boulder @ big bend, 2 desert towers, 5.11 crack climb
LTG (this year): high plains drifter (granite v7), morning dove white (tuff v7)

M: worked 3p-3a
T: worked 3p-3a
W: worked 3p-11p
Th: drove down to Red Rocks
F: Climbed Dream of Wild Turkeys, 7 pitch@5.10a, for a team onsight. It felt mellow.
Sa: Climbed Fiddler on the Roof, first 5 pitches at 5.10d. Hung twice leading the crux pitch otherwise climbed clean. The route felt hard and serious, the crux pitch was spectacular. Later, I got thoroughly schnockered at a campfire party.
Su: Quite hung over. Perhaps still drunk. Went bouldering anyway @ the kraft boulders. Managed to onsight up to v2 on a dozen or so problems, got shut down on a steep v4 and two thin vertical v5's. Enjoyable though perhaps not very productive. Drove back to Bishop. Then went to a dance party. Managed to avoid getting drunk this time.

Plan this week: rest and do some prehab work and stretching today, two good boulder sessions tu/wed, then back to work for 6 days. may try to get out on friday for a few hours.

[Boogster]

STG: 7a by end of April; 7a in Font
LTG: 7b by end of year

Mon: nothing
Tues: Matrix, bumbled - testing out finger, mainly.
Wed: nothing
Thurs: Matrix, bumbled - got up some 6bs.
Fri: nothing
Sat: Rowtor Rocks - flashed some easy stuff, got v. close to Sean's Roof. Should really have it next time.
Sun: Curbar/Gardoms - did Strawberries and some easy stuff. Tried Mark's Roof LH but fingers were trashed and I was knackered.

First proper week back since finger inj. at end of January. Feels good to be climbing again.

[aly]

STG: one-armer and front lever.  Have ignored the one-armer for the last few weeks but can now do both the bottom and the top 90 with 2kg assistance with some crossover so definite progress.  Lever getting closer, can hold my body straight briefy but can't hold it.  Need to actually try some half-levers again.

MTG (by the summer): 7B and/or 7c  Ticked that James' Slab on the Lower Tier boulders but I'm sure I've done harder V1's so I'm not sure I can take that.  Ego boosts never hurt though.    Will change goal to 7B and 7c maybe

LTG (in 2011): 7C and/or 8a (preferably both)

LLTG (by end of 2012): 8b (if you're going to aim it might as well be high)

Mon: Run, 3.7 miles, fast - felt properly drained.
Fingerboard - series of short repeaters and frenchies (4 grip types) plus some shorter deadhangs.  Quick core session.
Tues: Felt like crap so just did a quick core session
Weds: eatswood bouldering, progress on everything but still no cigar.
Short repeaters and frenchies session on the fingerboard
Thurs: Roaches bouldering, gained a huge flapper coming of the top of James' Slab and then it rained, bugger
Fri: Hole in finger - core
Sat: Hungover bouldering at Stanage, nothing of note.  Did what I could on the fingerboard, short repeaters and frenchies
Sun: Still had hole in finger but went out to Roaches anyway, bit warm but gorgeous.  Managed to do the slab first go (using different pebbles!), did some fun easy bouldering and did Script as well which was nice.

Combined with feeling ill on tues, my finger still has a hole in it so that's put the schedule back a couple of weeks but I'm happy to just do some maintenance this week and get back to a couple of campus sessions the week after this one (I have exams to keep me busy this week anyway).  Still want a 7c by summer and find a proper 7B bloc.

[205Chris]

STGs: Off to font next week (which came as a surprise)
MTGs: Sport 8a

M: Fingerboard / easy circuits at the works
T: Comp problems at the works
W: 2 hours circuit problems at the works
T: Routes at the edge
F: Short bouldering session at Stanage.
S: Bouldering at Rivelin Quarries.
S: 2 hours circuit problems at the works.

After cancelling a planned trip to Font due to a training course at work they turn around and cancel the training at the last minute 

Luckily there's still space in the Gite so I'm off to the Forest next week  . Easy week this week then we'll see what I can pull out of the bag next week.

[nai]

Dig deep, Chris.  Have a good trip.

Aims

m - good first session trying Famous Grouse, sussed a sequence to the hard bit...  Also OS'd Brian unless it has rules, bit of a surprise considering how I've been going recently, hopefully it's the start of some form returning.
t - nowt
w - 350 core reps & c50 press ups
t - nowt
f - drive to wales, drive around wales looking for dry rock, end up Tremadog and climb a damp One Step.  Still class.
s - repeat step 2 from yesterday, end up at Castle Inn Quarry, manage 3 routes until the cold wind drives us away.  Penmaen Head is sheltered and stays dry in the afternoon drizzle.  7 routes, all OS, up to 6c.
s - Classic V Diffs on the Cromlech (had intended to do Cemetery Gates but it was wet.  And cold) then V5s & 6s on the boulders.  Had a short play on Jerry's Roof late on, didn't manage all the moves but they felt feasible when fresher, syked to get back on it.
m - trad slate first thing then to the cave briefly, managed Bust Lip (having greased off the final wet hold 3 weeks ago) last possible attempt before we had to leave.  Great trip.

[205Chris]

Dig deep, Chris.  Have a good trip.

Thanks Nai, will do. I imagine the next couple of evenings will be mainly spent watching the real thing / between the trees / (insert name of font film here) and compiling a wishlist!

[Pebblespanker]

STG Font 7a, or as close as I can get to V6/Font 7a, by end 2011 (current best Font 6c+),
MTG English 6c in some shape or form by end 2012
LTG to have functional fingers post 50!

Mon - Rest
Tue-  Rest
Wed-    3 sets Repeaters all OH large (ish) 4F and F3F holds, Core - 210 Crunches better form/technique on crunches meant I was beasted !! Already achieved April goal of 210 in good form  crucnhes done in one continuous (perhaps 10-15secs breather between sets max) session for max burn
Thu-  Pressups planche stylee 3 sets of 10 hands at 90deg, and Core (210) crucnhes
Fri-  Rest and a couple of beers at mates
Sat - Trad trip to Birchens for mate who has only really led indoors to learn the ropes, lots of easy stuff and some moderate bouldering - no fingery stuff, felt tired but no joint pain which was ace and the resting the fingers is working
Sun - Happy as no finger joint pain so myself treated to Sunday slug fest with recorded 6 Nations games 

Finger joint feeling much better - perhaps now approx 90%  back to normal(ish) sessions this week but no maximals for another week just in case!! Going to try and up crunches to 240 and also making planche stylee pushups harder, raising legs and doing sets of frog planches as well, face plants to be avoided as I am ugly enough as it is! 

[cheque]

STG: Route-fit ASAP. E1 and 6C on grit would be nice before it's too hot.
MTG: E1 on big cliffs this summer. E2, 7a and 7A before end of 2011.
LTG: Onsighting long E4s before my planned 2013 USA trip.

M- Nothing.
T- Indoor routes. Turns out improved technique has helped me on routes as I can climb the steep ones I expected to pump out on onsight without being route-fit in the slightest. Need to do harder ones next time! For my treat (ie suits me perfectly) at the end I manage most of the moves on a vertical fingery 7a. Should redpoint it next week.
W- Nothing. Working late to be able to take next week off.
T- Nothing. Working late to be able to take next week off.
F- Nothing. Working late to be able to take next week off.
S- Roaches. Most of the upper tier standalone boulder problems, plus HVS routes.
S- Raining.  Absolutely beasting session at Stoke wall, with plenty in the upstairs traing bit and 'cave'. Onsight a 6c+ (route grade) upside-down endurance thing and numerous V6s: the hardest I've ever climbed indoors. I suspect the grades are a little generous there, though.  Explore lower Churnet after we emerge battered to find it's dried up.

[chris05]

Been away so I'll post for the last 2 weeks:

Week 28th Feb - 6th March
M: 3xDB complexes, BM (3 x 30 moves foot on, max hangs), core (500), leg raises, theraband and curls (am+pm)
T: 5m run, core, theraband and curls (am+pm)
W: 3xDB complexes, BM (3 x 30 moves foot on, max hangs), core (500), leg raises, theraband and curls (am+pm)
T: woke up with something pulled in my back
F: went for a sports massage ahead of surf trip
S: fly to morocco
S: rest (no surf)

Week 7th-13th March
M-S: surfing once or twice each day

Good trip away although surf was small and a bit rubbish over all, great to be away though. Got home last night, unpacked my board which easyjet had managed to snap the nose of despite loads of padding etc (NNFN). Also elbows were a bit shit for the trip so need to try to figure out whats wrong with them.

[duncan]

Goals.

M - shoulder stability stuff
T - Aerobic Endurance stuff
W - nothing
T - travel to Wadi Rum
F - Eye of Allah - fine long ramble
S - sick
S - The Beauty

Made it to Wadi Rum in one piece.