[willackers]

I had a go on Sunday and manage to flash to the jug but I was stopped by the lack of holds above it 

Does it top out directly above the jug?, I had a couple more goes and got out to the jug every time but couldn't figure anything out?

Any videos or photos anywhere?

Cheers

[Somebody's Fool]

It heads out right from the jug.

So from the position Ryan's in here, you go up again with the right hand then get a really high left heel (by his right hand in the picture) and rock onto it.



Does that help?

 

[willackers]

Cheers for that 

I always thought the first few moves were the crux but I think the top is the hard part.

I'll have another bash next time I'm there. I reckon it'll be quite scary getting your heel up whilst holding those crimps though!

It's such a cool problem.

[cofe]

The bottom is the crux unless you're massive.

[willackers]

On the flash I jumped for the crimps and was suprised at how good they are!, a few goes later I realised I could reach them without jumping. I know the start would be harder if you're short but surely it can't be as difficult as that top out?!?!

[cofe]

You'll do the top now you know where it goes.

[willackers]

I hope so, although I won't be down in Sheffield for a while so it might be too warm by the time I am back down 

[a dense loner]

massive guy in easy crux move long reach shocker

[Percy B]

I thought the top was piss compared to the bottom. Just shuffle up a ramp and rock over. Took a while to do the bottom, but flashed the top and could do that bit every time. Then couldn't link it because my fat sausage fingers didn't like the match on the hold that links to two sections. Bugger.
NB: The bottom of Slingshot is considerably easier if you are tall (-er than me)

[willackers]

Just shuffle up a ramp and rock over.

What Ramp? Are we talking about the same problem?

I jumped for the crimp, matched, threw out right to the jug, matched that then I was reaching up for small crimps on the blank wall, there's a few crimps but they're all quite poor, where's this ramp?

[Percy B]

It was a while back now - my memory is not what it was.... Match the crimp that is hard to match if you are blessed with massive fingers (as I am), reach out rightwards for a hold (jug?!) thats on a change in angle on the wall that trends upwards and rightwards (like a very vague ramp), foot on and rock over.

It's all a question of terminology.... One man's diagonal change in angle is a ramp, anothers is merely naff all.

I don't remember trying to pull on small crimps, but rather mantling like a man possessed on the 'jug' and getting stood up.

[slackline]

Doesn't MC Dave climb it in Committed II as its the start to Blind Vision? Might be handy for Bayyyytaaaa. 

[SA Chris]

massive guy in easy crux move long reach shocker

Newsflash - Shortarse in sour grapes horrorlife.

[El Mocho]

It was a while back now - my memory is not what it was....
It's all a question of terminology....

I don't remember trying to pull on small crimps, but rather mantling like a man possessed on the 'jug' and getting stood up.

Newsflash - old man with shit memory.

Percy I am all for the vague ramp, quite possibly my favorite sort of hold but there is no vague ramp shenanigans on slingshot. Get the nano crimps and bone them to fuck, get left heal on and slap up and right...

I flashed the top (I think) but took me fair few goes to get the start. My sequence prob no use to you Will as I only come up to your groin.

[Jaspersharpe]

Don't hate on the geez.

[ferret]

massive guy in easy crux move long reach shocker

Newsflash - Shortarse in sour grapes horrorlife.

as a oficial shortarse i'd like top point out that dense is not a "shortarse" (although he may have a short arse (ive never measured it)) and as a shortarse i'm not about to let some nonshortarse steal my (or the collective) whinging shortarse thunder

[SA Chris]

Lets face it - sub 6 is shortarse. Below that level you can subhumans may fight amongst yourselves as to who is who in the pecking order

[nik at work]

Lets face it - sub 6 is shortarse. Below that level you can subhumans may fight amongst yourselves as to who is who in the pecking order

Your head a bit too high above your keyboard to see what's going on down there?

[SA Chris]

Sorry, yes should have said "garbage can sized subhumans"

Thanks for fixing the problems like any good oompa loompa is meant to do.

[Percy B]

Newsflash - old man with shit memory.

Its a fair cop - it was a very long time ago - I tried it with Mo Overfield back in the day when it was still considered hard, as opposed to the tricky start to a hard route....

In my defence tho, I can't remember moves or holds on problems I did last week, let alone years ago. The result of a mis-spent youth, probably....

And not so much of the old, thank you....

[a dense loner]

eh? i'm not a shortarse as fettet pointed out, n i've got a tiny bum from working out thank you. don't understand the sour grapes bit? i've no sour grapes. long reaches are obviously easier for the tall, a blind man can see this. will prob watched a hammer house of horrors ascent n thought his work was done