[shark]

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=4150

A large loose block has been identified at the belay on the classic route ‘Central Groove’ at the Dewerstone on the southern edge of Dartmoor, Devon.

The block in question is held in place by a very small amount of rock and serious concerns have been raised about the risk of the block falling onto several routes below, as well as the often busy gearing up area at the base of the crag. The National Trust as landowners have decided that action needs to be taken to reduce the risk of this happening and advice from a geotechnical consultant was sought. Two options were possible, either removing (trundling) the block or stabilising the block onto the crag with a metal pin. Upon examining the block, the consultant’s advice was that removing the block may cause further instabilities along with the risk of damage to the routes below, so pinning was the recommended course of action.

The block was discussed at the BMC’s latest South West Area meeting (on 30th January in Bristol) with a unanimous vote in favour of pinning the block, which was subsequently fed back to the National Trust. The BMC supports the National Trust in this work - although there is a well established traditional ethic at the Dewerstone with no drilled equipment allowed, it was felt in this individual case an exception could be made and pinning the block was an acceptable solution to an unusual problem.

The pinning is due to take place on Friday 25th February and some areas of the crag will have restricted access for safety reasons whilst work is carried out. A single stainless steel bolt will be drilled through the block and secured into the crag behind it, with a warning to climbers not to use it as an anchor point.

First crag I ever climbed on 

[pabs]

This sounds like a pragmatic solution to the problem.

But also an interesting precedent being set? The National Trust own a lot of crags.

[butters]

But also an interesting precedent being set? The National Trust own a lot of crags.

Have you drifted in here whilst looking for the other channel?

How does this set a precedent, interesting or otherwise and what does the National Trust owning lots of land have to do with it? I fail to see the point. 

[slackline]

This sounds like a pragmatic solution to the problem.

But also an interesting precedent being set? The National Trust own a lot of crags.

Rather than setting a precedent it sounds more like the its being treated on its own merits/unique points just as every other stabilisation problem should be.

[shark]

You've got to be careful with the thin edge of a wedge when stabilising rocks. 

[pabs]

But also an interesting precedent being set? The National Trust own a lot of crags.

Have you drifted in here whilst looking for the other channel?

How does this set a precedent, interesting or otherwise and what does the National Trust owning lots of land have to do with it? I fail to see the point. 

No, I'm not a 'thin end of the wedger' and if it takes bolts/sika whatever to do this kind of work that's cool I was just thinking about crag owning charities like the NT might start taking a more active interest in removing objective dangers from crags and where that might lead.

However in this case it looks as if they have just reacted sensibly to climbers concerns.

[tregiffian]

Update.
            As of ten days ago there was a 2.5 inch hole through the much-loved belay block and into the cliff behind, measured by a plumber. I was assured at Bosigran yesterday that the `bolt` was now in place but he also said he liked climbing at Chudleigh.........

[ff.live]

It's all finished now...

I got my ropes in a right tangle as they looped over the bolt 


*edit
And in case you're reading this before you go...the road to the Dewerstone that runs from just east of Bickleigh is shut - alternative route needed!