i am not sure about core training.i can do a front lever on the rings in the works and hold it for 10 seconds and i cant climb for shit
Quote from: fried on February 22, 2011, 07:16:38 amCan anyone actually recommend a set of exercises? The amount of information on the web is overwhelming.Assuming this is for steep bouldering and/or routes not offwidth perversity...Leg-raises hanging from a barL-HangsVary exercises by changing leg positions -e.g. one leg flexed, the other extended, abduct leg (move it out to the side) - nearly all climbing involves asymmetrical movement and it would seem to be sensible to train like this. Front-levers with feet onInverted rowsProgress by reducing support from the legs - e.g. one toe on rather than both heels in the case of the inverted rows. This also makes the loading asymmetric.I'd exercise on a bar rather than rings - unless you climb very loose rock.All these are fairly specific to climbing, whereas planks and so forth are not. I think there is a place for non-specific exercises if you have a very, very weak core (not applicable to 99% climbers) and need to start at a very low level or have an existing injury which needs to be handled carefully. Otherwise I would suggest trying to replicate the kind of climbing you are weak at as closely as possible.Don't bother with dumbells ( Simon)
Can anyone actually recommend a set of exercises? The amount of information on the web is overwhelming.
Shark, what was/is your program for sorting out recurring lower back strains? I think I fall into the category of people with dodgy core (despite being a climber) as a legacy of bad posture and bad form lifting heavy(ish) weights in my younger years exacerbated by a desk-bound job (stiff upper back, psoas etc). I'm constantly coming away from a session at the wall or a day at the crag with a sore lower back or sides (obliques). Any tips?
Quote from: Rocksteady on February 22, 2011, 02:13:53 pmShark, what was/is your program for sorting out recurring lower back strains? I think I fall into the category of people with dodgy core (despite being a climber) as a legacy of bad posture and bad form lifting heavy(ish) weights in my younger years exacerbated by a desk-bound job (stiff upper back, psoas etc). I'm constantly coming away from a session at the wall or a day at the crag with a sore lower back or sides (obliques). Any tips?Extensive and excellent advice on correcting kyphosis and includes a program at the end. Boom.
Quote from: Serpico on February 20, 2011, 08:12:19 pmSicko.You (and Tommy for that matter) would do well to remember this famous quote: "If the back of your hand touches the rock, it isn't climbing".I can't remember which Frenchy said that, but it's words to live by.Ha ha! Good quote! I might have to reuse that one.
Sicko.You (and Tommy for that matter) would do well to remember this famous quote: "If the back of your hand touches the rock, it isn't climbing".I can't remember which Frenchy said that, but it's words to live by.
"I climb rock, not the spaces between the rock" (Sonnie Trotter)
Quote from: Lund on February 23, 2011, 02:15:57 pm"I climb rock, not the spaces between the rock" (Sonnie Trotter)How'd he get up Cobra Crack then?
Extensive and excellent advice on correcting kyphosis and includes a program at the end. Boom.
Cheers Duncan. I'll investigate, what sort of reps should I be looking at?
biggest issue with most of the suggested routines I have seen is the potential for a flat face when you lose control
Basically, my motivation is purely in staying injury free (ish), so I'm trying a holistic training approach. I have lots of problems with shoulders/ bicep/ elbow etc and so, I thought I 'd start doing more core stuff to generally strengthen this area, combined with sorting out my bad posture.Finally got a referral to see a specialist from my quack, so hopefully they'll be able to help me too.
Side-planks can work serratus anterior and, if done with good form - it helps if someone teaches you, pecs. and lats. remain relatively relaxed. I also learnt to consciously use serratus with my shoulders in various climbing positions and practice this using a fingerboard with my feet on and whilst warming-up at the wall.Press-ups also train serratus, though in a less isolated fashion than sideplanks. Some of the regulars here have speculated that press-ups help alleviate elbow problems by improving shoulder stability rather than by any direct effect on the elbow. Sideplanks also work the rotator cuff muscles in a far more physiological fashion than theraband exercises in my view. The rotator cuff muscles are not shoulder rotators but all contract together to pull the 'ball' into the 'socket'. Sideplanks, which compress the shoulder joint, seem to encourage just this kind of contraction.
There seem to be a few variants on the sideplank - what do you do? and what level of performance probably indicates that this is well developed enough. They seem easy but I may be doing them wrong (like usual) When you say 'train' the Serratus Anterior do you mean get it to activate right or get strong because the straight arm pull-over in the Bolton complex really works that muscle