UKBouldering.com

grit routes without 2nd ascent (Read 20074 times)

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29330
  • Karma: +635/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#25 Re: grit routes without 2nd ascent
February 03, 2011, 03:05:55 pm
Dare I suggest Iain Farrar's E7 at Rylstone - A Place to Be is it called? (Sorry in advance if this information is wrong Dense)

I think this was flashed by the usual suspects many moons ago

Sorry if this information is wrong Tom :0)

Shows how far my finger is off the pulse.

Nigel

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1755
  • Karma: +165/-1
#26 Re: grit routes without 2nd ascent
February 03, 2011, 03:20:10 pm
I did a route called Remote Control way out in the Forest of Bowland at a little outcrop called Wolfhole Crag, which I gave E7 6c. I would be bowled over if this has been repeated as its 4 miles from the car, half is uphill on a track, half is peat bog (although Greg informs me that the track has been extended a little way). However I was only a kid when I did this so I suspect it is probably only E5 or so in reality, it is very short. Would be good to see it added to any list to encourage a repeat.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29330
  • Karma: +635/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#27 Re: grit routes without 2nd ascent
February 03, 2011, 04:06:07 pm
Sounds like a typical Scottish roadside crag.

GCW

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • No longer a
  • Posts: 8172
  • Karma: +364/-38
#28 Re: grit routes without 2nd ascent
February 03, 2011, 04:15:45 pm
I did a route called Remote Control way out in the Forest of Bowland.......

It's already in the Grit List, Nige.

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2956
  • Karma: +162/-8
#29 Re: grit routes without 2nd ascent
February 03, 2011, 04:21:28 pm
Dare I suggest Iain Farrar's E7 at Rylstone - A Place to Be is it called? (Sorry in advance if this information is wrong Dense)

I think this was flashed by the usual suspects many moons ago

Tom, have any Of your routes at wilderness rocks had repeats yet?

Tom de Gay

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 258
  • Karma: +40/-0
#30 Re: grit routes without 2nd ascent
February 03, 2011, 04:27:11 pm
Dare I suggest Iain Farrar's E7 at Rylstone - A Place to Be is it called? (Sorry in advance if this information is wrong Dense)

I think this was flashed by the usual suspects many moons ago

Tom, have any Of your routes at wilderness rocks had repeats yet?
No one's owned up to it if they have; same applies to the Kinder ones.

willackers

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 870
  • Karma: +126/-0
    • Vimeo
#31 Re: grit routes without 2nd ascent
February 03, 2011, 05:23:11 pm
Has The Devil Is In The Details at Black Rocks been repeated?

 Massive dyno! :bounce:

TommyG

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 18
  • Karma: +0/-0
#32 Re: grit routes without 2nd ascent
February 04, 2011, 09:07:08 am
Mark S

Has the Driven Bow at Hen Cloud seen a repeat yet?

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3095
  • Karma: +150/-5
#33 Re: grit routes without 2nd ascent
February 04, 2011, 09:15:38 am
Has The Devil Is In The Details at Black Rocks been repeated?

Don't think so, but it's got your name all over it. I dunno if Boom Bip at Ramshaw has been repeated either? That's a really quality little route and actually not that hard as what you are dynoing for (the top of the crag) is massive. Could be done GU with an attentive belayer.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9945
  • Karma: +561/-9
#34 Re: grit routes without 2nd ascent
February 04, 2011, 09:40:14 am
I bet there are shit loads of obscure ones that have never seen a repeat. Ag-ado Do Do Compete - Secret Garden, Through the K Hole/Slanted and Enchanted/Untoward - Black Rock, etc. Generally anything less than three stars that needs cleaning before a repeat.

Nigel

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1755
  • Karma: +165/-1
#35 Re: grit routes without 2nd ascent
February 04, 2011, 09:56:06 am
What about that disintegrating E7 The Enigma did up on Kinder? Can't remember name, think JB was there though.

Moment Of Clarity at Thorn Crag (E10/11?).

Couch Potato at Bosley?

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11481
  • Karma: +703/-22
#36 Re: grit routes without 2nd ascent
February 04, 2011, 10:03:33 am
Quote
What about that disintegrating E7 The Enigma did up on Kinder?

Heart-throb. After Ben's solo, keen youth got on the top-rope. He pulled the first hold off and landed about 30ft down the steep hillside on rope stretch, then got back on and worked his way up. At the top he was pale and wide-eyed, 'No fucking way would I solo that!'

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4948
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#37 Re: grit routes without 2nd ascent
February 04, 2011, 10:28:01 am
Moment Of Clarity at Thorn Crag (E10/11?).

How Gaskins ever gave this a font grade ill never know! Even the middle and top bits look desperate, hard and high.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9945
  • Karma: +561/-9
#38 Re: grit routes without 2nd ascent
February 04, 2011, 10:35:38 am
How about every route at Dukes and Robinhood's Quarry except for Great Crack and Dharma?  :lol:

Tom de Gay

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 258
  • Karma: +40/-0
#39 Re: grit routes without 2nd ascent
February 04, 2011, 10:55:39 am
Ag-ado Do Do Compete
I think I might have done that.

I had a project in the Matlock quarries once, a huge dirty wall with no gear, and some crumbly bits. The belay anchor was a giant mature tree, the sort of anchor you don't feel the need to back up because it's so huge and ancient. Anyway, I turned up one day to work the route and and the tree had fallen over the edge into the quarry, bringing the final few metres of route with it. I never went back.   

Not heard of the Enigma's thing; where does it it go?

How about:
Beast of Bauston
Dan's E7 6b at Bosley Cloud
both look really good.

nik at work

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3597
  • Karma: +312/-2
#40 Re: grit routes without 2nd ascent
February 04, 2011, 11:00:21 am
Has your thing at Upper Edale (Mentalist Cupboard?) had a repeat Tom?

Tom de Gay

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 258
  • Karma: +40/-0
#41 Re: grit routes without 2nd ascent
February 04, 2011, 11:05:10 am
Has your thing at Upper Edale (Mentalist Cupboard?) had a repeat Tom?
No one's owned up to it if they have; same applies to the Wilderness Rocks ones.

GCW

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • No longer a
  • Posts: 8172
  • Karma: +364/-38
#42 Re: grit routes without 2nd ascent
February 04, 2011, 11:07:44 am
Moment Of Clarity at Thorn Crag (E10/11?).

How Gaskins ever gave this a font grade ill never know! Even the middle and top bits look desperate, hard and high.

After the 8a+/b start it's allegedly font 7a highball. 

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4948
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#43 Re: grit routes without 2nd ascent
February 04, 2011, 11:08:57 am
Moment Of Clarity at Thorn Crag (E10/11?).

How Gaskins ever gave this a font grade ill never know! Even the middle and top bits look desperate, hard and high.

After the 8a+/b start it's allegedly font 7a highball.

Looked harder than that!

andy popp

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5561
  • Karma: +347/-5
#44 Re: grit routes without 2nd ascent
February 04, 2011, 11:12:08 am
Wonder if Madman is the oldest unrepeated?

Have you been on Madman Tom? I thought it was massively undergraded.

Its hard to know what has been repeated - I was amazed to hear Dave Pickford had done my Sons of the Desert on Kinder for example. Gresham's variant on this might not have been repeated.

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#45 Re: grit routes without 2nd ascent
February 04, 2011, 11:15:09 am
Moment Of Clarity at Thorn Crag (E10/11?).

How Gaskins ever gave this a font grade ill never know! Even the middle and top bits look desperate, hard and high.

Has anyone had a proper go at this? Seems odd that the "hardest route on grit" is mainly ignored.

GCW

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • No longer a
  • Posts: 8172
  • Karma: +364/-38
#46 Re: grit routes without 2nd ascent
February 04, 2011, 11:16:11 am
I don't know of anyone seriously trying it.  The walk in may put people off.  Awesome line though.

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4948
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#47 Re: grit routes without 2nd ascent
February 04, 2011, 11:18:09 am
I don't know of anyone seriously trying it.  The walk in may put people off.  Awesome line though.

And its too slopey for Big Sam!  :lol:

GCW

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • No longer a
  • Posts: 8172
  • Karma: +364/-38
#48 Re: grit routes without 2nd ascent
February 04, 2011, 11:25:49 am
Weak Sam can't do 6a on slopers!!!

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4948
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#49 Re: grit routes without 2nd ascent
February 04, 2011, 11:30:30 am
Weak Sam can't do 6a on slopers!!!

6a? I heard 5+...  ;)

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal