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Weak for the grade? (Read 11879 times)

Serpico

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#25 Re: Weak for the grade?
January 24, 2011, 10:47:06 am
From what i've read on ukb, you seem to be a man who likes a siege.

Do bears like to shit in the woods? Any ascent that takes less than a month counts as an onsight for Andy.

Andy F

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#26 Re: Weak for the grade?
January 24, 2011, 11:11:15 am
From what i've read on ukb, you seem to be a man who likes a siege.

Do bears like to shit in the woods? Any ascent that takes less than a month counts as an onsight for Andy.

I've onsighted 7b+, but most stuff takes time. And then gets upgraded  ;) :P

Probes

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#27 Re: Weak for the grade?
January 24, 2011, 12:00:59 pm
I reckon it comes down to how quickly you can become familiar with moves. Working hard boulder problems its easy to put 20-30 attempts in in a session, whereas routes this would take multiple sessions. Boulderer/route climber argument doesnt really work for me. You can usually build up a pretty decent level of p eng in 3-4 weeks, enough for most british length routes. So its just a matter of pulling your toe out of your minge and puttng more hours in.  Andy is a good example of this, he can boulder around v8, and casue he puts the effort in he, can get up 8b's  :-\ like GA, which relates quite well to that boulder grade. Also.. how well do you really know a route? And how well do you chill out when climbing it. I reckon most people are pretty chilled when bouldering, thus, free movement, clear headed, no pre judgement of success etc, all that hippy pyschology bollocks. Not as easy when you got the redpoint fear! My kinda of problem with sport is, my brain is set up for trad and the frame of mind you have to be in to push it on trad, thus breaking those insticnts is hard on bolts. When i do switch off, its suprises me that with a bit of hard work and learning a route where you can start to get to. Hmmm  :yawn:

Serpico

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#28 Re: Weak for the grade?
January 24, 2011, 12:55:20 pm
... and cause he puts the effort in he, can get up 8b's  :-\ like GA,

Lovin' your work there Probes ;D

On a slightly off-topic note - do people find that their bouldering grade is consistent? For routes I find my grade pretty consistent relative to my current level of fitness, but bouldering (and I've bouldered a lot) it's always varied massively.

JohnM

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#29 Re: Weak for the grade?
January 24, 2011, 01:08:11 pm
I find my bouldering grade is massively inconsistent and I find it harder to maintain a certain level of bouldering.  With routes I can generally onsight 7b/7b+ and redpoint 8a in less than 10 attempts fairly consistantly, abroad anyway.  With bouldering if I'm going reasonably well I can generally do 7B in a few goes and 7C/7C+ in 1-3 sessions but at the moment I can't seem to do 7B in a session.  I have to put in a lot more effort to maintain enough power to stay at a consistant level of bouldering.

mark s

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#30 Re: Weak for the grade?
January 26, 2011, 12:28:05 pm
Its all making me feel pretty shit.I can normally do font7a in a few goes but 7b's feel despo.I find lime hard anyway,but mid 7's I used to be happy with.I loose interest in things very quick,certainly don't do more than 2 sesh's on climbs.time to try and get a bit fitter.

Beastio

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#31 Re: Weak for the grade?
March 19, 2011, 11:22:04 pm
Such a hustler andy!

 

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