[RobinB]

Does anyone know of any good bouldering on NZ North island? I have heard about the stuff at Castle and Flock hill on the South island but was wondering if there was anywhere worth visiting on the North island as well

Also, where do people stay for Castle hill?

Any info much appreciated

[slackline]

I know nothing but, you could try asking Derek Thatcher who is based on the South Island (as tons of his pics are of Flock Hill) who might know about areas on the North.

[Andy B]

There are bits spread around the North Island but if you have a choice, and your trip is primarily focused on bouldering then my advice would be to head straight to Castle Hill. Nothing else in New Zealand even remotely compares to even one of the smaller areas there.

If you have to climb on the North Island we climbed at an area near some tour caves called the Airstrip, which was nice organically featured Limestone, but we found very little that would challenge you there, and at a few areas around Wellington on different volcanic rocks. I could dig out their names if you're really keen.

[nai]

Take it you've found http://mojozone.co.nz/.

I remember an article by the Copleys on UKC a couple of years back, total crap but it would point you at what there is, the only stuff I recall on NI was in Northland which is a bit of a trek.

[Andy B]

There is also: http://powerband.org.nz/

If I remember correctly the guy who runs it used to post on here, and is a nice bloke. It maybe worth contacting him directly.

The Airstrip is near Waitomo Caves, and it looks like there is at least some harder stuff there now.

[BenF]

There is bouldering described at Wharepapa near Hamilton, amongst the very many sport crags there (mainly easy/mid grades up to about grade 26).  However I would say that all the bouldering I ever tried at Wharepapa wasn't that inspiring and its best to stick to the routes - which I really enjoyed although I know some people aren't that keen on it. 

Even if you're just a boulderer and don't ever do routes, if you're passing it may be worth dropping in; there's certainly plenty of rock and if you like pockets you'll be in heaven.

[Andy B]

Baring Head near Wellington was one of the places we visited. It seemed to have some devoted fans, but in my opinon it was a proper locals venue. Not many good lines, most of the harder stuff being eliminates, and it was covered in rings and lines of blackboard chalk from a competition (from over a year before!) when we were there.

We heard that there was supposed to be some good stuff on Waiheke Island near Aukland but we never went.

[BenF]

Also, where do people stay for Castle hill?

Oh yeah, forgot to reply to this bit.

I was living in Christchurch and either went out simply for the day or spent a few days at a time up at Castle Hill, camping nearby.  A lot of people rent vans and then stay overnight at the various free campsites locally though.  If you decide to camp in the valley, don't camp at the nearest free site (Craigieburn), drive a few kms further west to the one by Lake Pearson simply because there are no Kea's there.  The Kea's at the Craigieburn site will destroy your tent/car/shoes/sanity.  It's not worth even spending a night there the birds are so talented at wrecking stuff.  Although I didn't get stuff trashed there, I saw so many other people's things go missing/get chewed that we learned to camp at the next site.

[slackline]

I remember an article by the Copleys on UKC a couple of years back, total crap but it would point you at what there is, the only stuff I recall on NI was in Northland which is a bit of a trek.

There was also one by Fiend, mainly climbing as opposed to bouldering, but he might be able to dredge up some details (if he wrote them down).

[Adam Lincoln]

Also, where do people stay for Castle hill?

The Kea's at the Craigieburn site will destroy your tent/car/shoes/sanity.  It's not worth even spending a night there the birds are so talented at wrecking stuff. 

Try 5 weeks! You just learn to love them. In a love/hate kind of way.

[Adam Lincoln]

John Palmer (Posts as Omega) on here, lives on North Island. Perhaps worth a pm Robin. Sure he would be more than happy to sort you out/give you a tour. Of the video's i have seen, it looks reasonable.

[slackline]

To save you the time of finding it, this is the Copley bouldering article nai refers to.

It links to Freeclimb.co.nz but most topos there appear to be sport/trad orientated.

Looks like there is tons of info out there though 

[Andy B]

The Keas were one of the highlights of my entire trip. I could play with them for hours. Knowledge for not having your stuff destroyed: give them something better to play with. We kept an inner tube on the bonnet of our car and never had anything damaged over a few visits.

There are (or were) cabins for short term rent in Castle Hill village.

John Palmer (Posts as Omega) on here, lives on North Island. Perhaps worth a pm Robin. Sure he would be more than happy to sort you out/give you a tour. Of the video's i have seen, it looks reasonable.

That's who runs Powerband (see above), hence the symbol.

[Adam Lincoln]

John Palmer (Posts as Omega) on here, lives on North Island. Perhaps worth a pm Robin. Sure he would be more than happy to sort you out/give you a tour. Of the video's i have seen, it looks reasonable.

That's who runs Powerband (see above), hence the symbol.

Ahh, sorry, missed that.

[BenF]

Try 5 weeks! You just learn to love them. In a love/hate kind of way.

Oh I loved the Kea's alright; beautiful birds.  I just figured that since I was spending so much time there, I might as well camp somewhere they didn't trash stuff and ruin every night's sleep.  I saw so many people bring wrecked tents into the shop where I worked in Chch, and saw so many cars lose all their rubber, it just didn't seem worth it.  Plus, Lake Pearson is just f*cking beautiful too!

But anyway Adam, I have no idea how you stuck out five weeks of nightly Kea hell.  You must be insane.  Or have a metal tent, but then I've also seen what the birds have done to mountain huts up in the high Alps at Aspiring and Mt Cook too. 

[Adam Lincoln]

Try 5 weeks! You just learn to love them. In a love/hate kind of way.

But anyway Adam, I have no idea how you stuck out five weeks of nightly Kea hell. 

It wasn't the Keas that we had issue with. Was the biting flies. Kea's only really tormented us during the day. Never with tents, just with food boxes.

[BenF]

It wasn't the Keas that we had issue with. Was the biting flies. Kea's only really tormented us during the day. Never with tents, just with food boxes.

God yeah, sandflies...  the biggest hazard in NZ.  With regard to camping, and the OP, I also felt that because Lake Pearson was more open, the wind kept them off a lot more. 

I think you got lucky with the Kea's btw, either that or they were having an off season.

[RobinB]

Thanks for the feedback - sounds like Castle / Flock hill is probably the place to go

[SA Chris]

It is. And if you are just going there for a holiday of less than a month and outside the main xmas holiday period , I think hiring a camper van is the way to go. If you shop around they are only a bit more expensive than a car and make life a hell of a lot easier than car camping.

There are also rental cottages to be had, a lot if which will be used over there winter though, as it's a popular ski area. You need to know exactly when you will be there though.

googling shows this http://www.holidayhouses.co.nz/Castle-Hill-Village.asp

[Bonjoy]

I’d reiterate everything others have said about prioritising the south island if at all possible. It’s not just the bouldering, the two islands are pretty different and the north is not a patch on the south IMO.
We stayed on Craigburn for weeks sleeping in a car and never had a problem with the Keas. They sometimes pecked/moved the shoes we left under the car at night, but never touched the car itself. For us they were great entertainment, but I know they do sometimes damage folks stuff.
The sandflies are annoying, but I thought trivial compared to UK midges and they seemed to go to bed when it got dark.

[Adam Lincoln]

and they seemed to go to bed when it got dark.

Or it was sunny.

[Andy B]

We never had any issues with sandflies at Castle Hill, but whilst climbing in Milford Sound they were unbelievable. Way worse than any midgies I've encountered in Scotland. As they bounced off the tent whilst attacking us it sounded like heavy rain, and when the boat came to pick us up we stood as deep as we could in the water and as covered as possible until the boat beached. Is there a word for worse than a swarm?

[BenF]

I hear your pain Andy.  TBH I found that the flies are only really bad (as in swarming and day ruining) when you head west of the Alps, to places like Milford and the more northern parts of the west coast, although evening anywhere can be unpleasant and a warm, still day at the Hill can still bring out the flies.  I've heard other reports of people submerging themselves in rivers with just their faces out of the water to escape the flies.  And even then their faces were still black with flies.

When they bite, the flies actually cut a tiny square out of your skin in order to get at the blood.  Apparently/allegedly. 

[SA Chris]

Yeah, we only really experienced them at Milford Sound. Right little cunts, no other word for them.

[ben]

Did someone mention prioritising the south island?      I lived on both islands for a while and although there is some good/alright cragging on the North, the bouldering aint anything special. Go South my friend...

However as with most trips to NZ, the climbing is generally part of a bigger holiday (otherwise you'd go to Oz, no?), hence you have to weigh up what you want to see alongside. If mountains/glaciers/big scenery are your thing then South, if you prefer warmer weather/volcanoes/hot springs/Maori culture/surfing then include some N action..