[RowanSB]

Ok so Ive done quite a few V8s in Yorkshire lately and some V9s (in cornwall and the keel at almscliff); so I'm pretty desperate to get into V10! Any suggestions for entry level V10s in Yorkshire that I should be getting on?

Oh yeah and any beta for the real keel! I haven't worked out the easiest way to match the lip, have my right hand on that sloping crimp, left hand on the keel hold, right foot in that pocket below the keel hold and ive been trying to squeeze the left hand side of the keel with my left foot. That hasn't been working    , is that correct beta and do i just need to man up, or is it sketchy beta?

[Jim]

sit start bens groove?

[philo]

V what? your not in america!

[nik at work]

Your Real Keel plan is fairly standard I think. The right foot positioning is pretty critical, from what I remember you put it a bit further back than you might think and really twist it in to jam it, heel hook with the left on the keel, I think there is a bit of a ripple or something to get your heel on to??
Then get your left onto the hold below the chip(I get it slightly low as a pinch). The I think most people go with their left to the high pocket but I (as a certified short arse) went with my right as when I was going with the left my chest was hitting the lip and pushing me off. Hope that makes sense.

[RowanSB]

Awesome I'll give that a shot on the real keel, i've just been putting my right toe on an edge instead of camming it.

As for bens groove ss; still need to do the standing version! I've had rh pocket near the top but only had 2 fingers in there, couldn't seem to re-adjust.

[Stubbs]

If you go on yorkshiregrit and type 7C+ into the search box it will give you a list of all problems at that grade, then you can check out some photos and see what you fancy.

[clm]

oxymoron 

[Jim]

clmmoron 

[benpritch]

sit start bens groove?

this is nails?

[Johnny Brown]

Pretty sure it was my first 7c+. Unless you count Brad Pit. It is very good, and easy to work, so I'd say its a good one.

[benpritch]

oh, i'll get my coat

[andy_e]

If you're a board monster it'd be nails. If you're a technical genius it's nails but less so. I know someone who did it as their first 7c+ too, and the only other person I know who's done it seiged it for ages and has done stuff far harder. I think it helps a lot if you're short too, makes it easier to fit into the base of the groove and keep your weight straight on the crap footholds.

[sjw]

There's also The Bulb. Another contrived eliminate, but 'the move' is brilliant. Ben's Groove isn't 7c+, it's 9d-.

[Bonjoy]

Sorry to be a killjoy but aren't you being a bit premature looking for the next grade? After all it sounds from you post like you've only done one (entry level) V9 in Yorks.
If you really need the number I'd recommend picking a link-up and being prepared for a siege.
Anyone else want a humbug?

[Ru]

If you're a board monster it'd be nails. If you're a technical genius it's nails but less so. I know someone who did it as their first 7c+ too, and the only other person I know who's done it seiged it for ages and has done stuff far harder. I think it helps a lot if you're short too, makes it easier to fit into the base of the groove and keep your weight straight on the crap footholds.

I thought this was standard 7c+, but more importantly it's one if the best 7c+s I've ever done. It's a great line and it climbs really well.

[clm]

Sorry to be a killjoy but aren't you being a bit premature looking for the next grade? After all it sounds from you post like you've only done one (entry level) V9 in Yorks.
If you really need the number I'd recommend picking a link-up and being prepared for a siege.
Anyone else want a humbug?

That was my point up there. And the ludicrous use of the phrase 'entry level'.

[andy_e]

Yeah, I thought what bonjoy and clm thought too, I recently did the Keel but I've not been getting stuck in to anything harder (or anything at all, seemingly) because I just want to tick loads of classics around the same sort of grade.

Ru, everyone I know who's done it or tried it has said that it is the best 7c+ they've ever done/tried!

[Will Hunt]

Harder for the tall isn't really going to be Rowan's scene I think 

Having looked at the 7c+ list on YG.com it would seem The Real Keel would be a good one to go for. Classic, plenty of beta and you've done a lot of it already in the Keel.
Apart from that maybe Making Shapes would be good. Easy to get to from Hyde Park, and quite reachy and technical I think. Not that I'm knowledgeable about this problem or indeed the grade  ???

[Stubbs]

Just because a problem is old it doesn't make it classic, real keel is an eliminate, and not really a good one at that!

[Nemo]

As Stubbs said, The Reel Keel is a pretty rubbish eliminate – it’s fine for training circuits at the Cliff (there are lots of different sequences and variants) but nothing to get excited about.  And this one really is one of the most height dependent around - so the grade even for the standard sequence is pretty random – in reality it’s somewhere between 7B+ and 8A depending on how tall you are.  (The really tall can reach the pocket with the feet still scissoring between the pocket and the keel hold – in which case its not really any harder than The Keel the normal way – 7B+ ish for people this tall.  RowanSB – you are using the standard sequence but as nik at work said, getting the RF to stick is crucial – you need to kind of wedge it in – most people squeeze with toe on Keel hold rather than heel but it works either way – it’s also the standard foot sequence for the ordinary Keel (maybe you used a different sequence for that?) and the Bulb, so worth sussing out.)

Ben’s Groove Sit is definitely not harder for the tall.  If you’re really tall, you can just skip all the hard climbing by doing the crux gaston move with your RF still on the big low hold down and right.  7C max that way.  For everyone under six foot lots though, it’s a mid grade 7C+ - one of the best around – and there are a gazillion different sequences for all shapes and sizes…  And it’s not really that technical – you just need to remember to keep your R heel down for the gaston move so your feet don’t pop.  (It is a bit power endurancy though as JB found out after falling off lots from the pocket…  )

Making Shapes is not reachy at all – but it is technical, conditions dependent and has a pretty spicy landing. 

Probably the softest semi decent 7C+’s around are Stu’s Roof and The Bulb at Almscliff (especially if you’re used to modern walls and steepness).  Other classic borderline 7C / 7C+’s are Juha’s Arete at Caley and Jim’s Problem at Brimham.

But as Bonjoy said, if the hardest problem you’ve done in yorkshire is The Keel (which is probably 7B+ if you use a sensible sequence or are tall) then I suspect looking for 7C+’s is a little premature (although it’s worth a look at Stu’s and The Bulb because if they suit you, they can be pretty straightforward.)
   
If you’re looking for quality rather than the grade though – I’d stick with classic 7C’s – The Ramp (Lager Lager) at Earl, Terry at Caley, Cocoa Team Special at Rylstone, Red Baron Roof at Shipley etc etc.  If you want to stick with less good but pretty much everdry problems at The Cliff go for DWR LH or maybe Slopey Traverse – there are variants, eliminates and extensions to both in the 7C – 8A range. 

And then move on to the classic 7C+’s like Underworld at Earl, Curious Yellow at Ilkley, Heaven in your Hands at Brandrith (these three are pretty tough 7C+’s, but are brilliant) etc etc… 

[andy_e]

A good answer! Given me some ideas too.

[RowanSB]

Yeah I should get more yorkshire 7c mileage! Cheers for the suggestions Nemo.
The video on youtube of bens groove ss makes me feel sick!

[andy_e]

This one? Why?

[RowanSB]

just looks precarious as, cant comprehend those footholds!

[TomP]

Good post Nemo.

Rowan, are you the guy I met at Almscliff a few weeks ago when you were trying Underhand? If so I remember you saying you don't drive so it's probably worth keeping my suggestions to the more accessible crags.

Making Shapes probably isn't a good'un as your first 7c+. Techy, poor footholds, very crimpy, gripping landing and quite hard at the grade - borderline 8a possibly? I know UTG suggested 8a after his first ascent. Juha's arete felt mid to higher end 7c+ to me. However, it's pretty much a one mover so could be worth a go. Demon Wall LH would be worth a go too but it's pretty brutal on the skin and you may be accosted by the cliff beta police if you use the thin break (it is eliminated for the 7c+ tick).

Nemo's suggestions of Stu's Roof and Red Baron Roof are the first ones that I thought of. Decent lines (RBF is better though), holds aren't too bad and they're easily workable at pretty much any point.

Cocoa Team is a good suggestion but you need football sized gonads for the 5a top out! Proper brown pants stuff for a boulderer

Just to add a couple more into the mix:
Dick Hyman (sp?) on the Virgin Boulder at the Cliff. Crimpy and basic. Softer side of 7c+ IMO if you are of the tall persuasion.
Magnum Opus. The groove to the left of Dick Hyman. Not an obvious choice but superb and not too bad at 7c+. Take a few pads.
Play Dead on the Egg Boulder at the Cliff. If you can do Streaky's Trav and Buffy Meets Daddy then it's be worth going for the link.
To Me To You at Brimham is excellent and not too bad for 7c+. Once you've done that you can work on the 8a version which has a different finish.

As for 7Cs, there are just so many stunning problems at that grade. Nemo mentions some of the best 7Cs but there are loads more quality ones out there. You could make a whole new thread by listing them all but here's a few to wet your appetite:

Fluide - Brimham Outlying
Terry - Caley
Jess's Roof - Cliff
Hunter's Roof - Hunter's Stones

That's just the tip of the ice berg really. Once you start exploring the more esoteric crags you find some real gems - many of them hard. Try to get to Lords/Simons Seat, Slipsotnes and Crookrise. They should provide you with a more to go at