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[Peak][Stanage][Currently Unnamed][7A+] (Read 2950 times)

butterworthtom

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[Peak][Stanage][Currently Unnamed][7A+]
November 08, 2010, 09:48:40 am
This problem is effectively a direct start to Dark Water at Stanage (Left of Hell Crack).
The moves on this problem are very nice, it looks slightly eliminate but climbs very independently.
You start off the block to the right and pull onto some slopers before making moves slightly up and left on some unusual (but very nice smooth crimps) then back right slightly to join the end of dark water via some sweet slopers.
It is definitely highball you can either:
 - Solo the end of dark water which features an easy english 6b move off an often green crimp about 6 metres off the deck or
-Drop off

There is some uncertainty over the 1st ascent, hence lack of name. I climbed it up to the break last year (where the soloing begins). Yesterday some guys who I can't remember the names of climbed it to the top. (Hopefully they will come along shortly to ammend my story). Presumably Bonjoy climbed it 10 years ago anyway.

Here is a snowy photo from last year giving an idea of line - this doesn't really give an idea of how high it is because the snow was about 6ft deep when I first tried it. (Sorry for fb link):


Adam Lincoln

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Hi Tom, it was Bob Smith and Rob Smith. (No relation) Bob asked me yesterday to post about it on here as he doesn't frequent these parts.

This is what Bob said to me

"Went to Stanage today and me and Rob Smith went to check out a possible prob I'd seen years ago. Turns out it climbs quite well, so we got stuck in and made good ground pretty quickly. Tom (dont know 2nd name) then turned up and was first to haul up to an obvious finishing point where you can traverse right to a VD. Then I duly did the problem and on the way found some cunning thumb beta. I too then traversed off."

He was quite keen to call it The Collective, as of the nature and team work of different parties. How does that sound Tom?

He also said

"I'd give it about 7a/7a+ all the way to the VS of Up the Styx. And the only rule is - no big jug on the right at the start".

 :)


butterworthtom

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I thought 7b or 7a+ at first. Conditions dependant. I nearly killed myself on it last summer after coming closing to giving myself a new face on a nearby boulder.

Adam Lincoln

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I thought 7b or 7a+ at first. Conditions dependant. I nearly killed myself on it last summer after coming closing to giving myself a new face on a nearby boulder.

Ill mention that to Bob. Are you happy with the naming situation?

butterworthtom

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#4 Re: [Peak][Stanage][The Collective][7A+]
November 08, 2010, 10:22:54 am
Oh and I didn't climb it yesterday in front of those guys, I'm not sure if that's what you were trying to say?

The point is, it is a really good highball problem which climbs very nicely and is worth seeking out. The collective sounds good to me. Some of the holds are very unusual rounded, smooth crimps which I think adds to the quality of the problem.

I still need to climb it to the top of the crag. I think it was Bob who topped out?


butterworthtom

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Ignore Bob's modesty. He could probably see how gutted I looked to see them on it when I hadn't "Finished it".

Adam Lincoln

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#6 Re: [Peak][Stanage][The Collective][7A+]
November 08, 2010, 10:34:44 am
Oh and I didn't climb it yesterday in front of those guys, I'm not sure if that's what you were trying to say?

No, not trying to say anything. Just being a middleman  :)
I'll pass on grading thoughts and tell Bob you are happy with naming.

Nice one.

BAndy

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How about 'High Water' as in "Come hell or....." what with it being next to Hell Crack and being a highball n all.

Naming difficulties aside, it sounds like a pretty sweet problem.

 

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