1. it must be an eliminate of some sort and it should not follow a natural line of weakness or even look vaguely attractive2. the rules must be very silly and confusing3. the rock should be suspect/snappy/sandy/dirty in some way4. the holds should be painful and awkward5. the landing should be bad, sloping or very muddy/boggy6. the grade should vary wildly, depending on a slightly different interpretation of the rules7. it should have some chipped or glued holds and plenty of eyesore brush marks8. it should smell of piss9. it should feature an awkward semi-crouching start on bizarre specified holds10. it should feature a violent slappy move to a razor sharp hold, guaranteed to slice yer hand open
Now I've never been, but from what I've seen from photos, doesn't this describe every problem at the Dumbarton Boulders??
the UK's WORST problem is the slopey traverse at bonehill:
Were you locked in Pexhill for years as a small child?
Hey Johnny You really do have a problem with crimps don't you?
QuoteHey Johnny You really do have a problem with crimps don't you? Now that just can't be right; slopers never hurt anyone, right :wink:
Now that just can't be right; slopers never hurt anyone, right :wink:
Stuart Little wrote:Quotethe UK's WORST problem is the slopey traverse at bonehill: Granted this may be shit. But at least its in a nice place. There are some good problems are Bonehill n its a good place to chill. If we're really going for the holy grail of shitness we need a bit more.So:1. You've heard of it , maybe even seen a vid.2. You've travelled a fair way.3. There's fuck all else there (climbing wise)4. There's shit loads else - council estate, burnt out cars, kids nicking your chalk bag.5. Sharp crimps for hands6. Big footholds too polished to actually stand on.I think ambience is a big part of it. If you're stupid enough to waste good conditions at the plantation getting a wet arse on jerry's traverse, good luck. At least you're not polishing up deliverance :wink:
anything MO has done=shit