[r-man]

I seem to have ended up in a situation where access to rock is pretty infrequent. Luckily, there's a decent training facility just 7.5min run from my house, so if I can't develop more esoteric rock, hopefully I can at least get stronger.

I'm making the most of the novelty of using the 45 deg. board. Been on it for about three months now and it's been great fun seeing the improvements, re-learning how to jump and swing on small holds, doing footless problems and experimenting with bouldering-on-the-minute. (I found an old malc smith training plan in a battered climbing mag. He was into the on-the-minute stuff).

All this is splendid, but after having a heavy gravity session last night, I was wondering if there was something else I should be doing. I realise it's impossible to be improving every session, but as I sat there eyeing up my four move super-project (which has been rebuffing me for several weeks), something sinister beckoned in my peripheral vision...

Lo, it was the satanic finger ladder. I've always avoided campussing in the past, as my elbows are a weak point. I reckon they could probably handle a bit more these days, but recently I did try campussing just a little, and was a bit miffed to only just grunt up 1-4-6, and feel like 1-4-7 was miles away.

So is this really a weakness I should be addressing, or will I get more benefit from milking the woody? I've always harboured the notion that campussing might be a bit of a gimmick, but perhaps I'm wrong. I'd love to be climbing short, steep 7C+/8A problems, but in the past have felt a bit lacking in the power department.

Please issue forth with opinions of campus boards vs woodies, or combinations of the two.

[rodma]

It's difficult to know how much benefit it would be verses something like a weights regime. It totally depends on body shape etc etc etc. I know that it works well for me (when I'm not broken) and it also depends on how you use it.

It might be that you can't 1-4-7 cos you're campussing technique is shit, but you're fingers are strong.

It could be that, as you say, you've got dodgy elbows, so they are what is stopping you.

It could easily also be weak shoulders, or not being able to MTFU 

Give it a burl for a bit and see is it helps 

[slackline]

Getting to know Rockface well (only one with a 45-degree board when I was there)?

[Paul B]

I've tried campussing for periods of time and to be honest I didn't see that much imrpovement. Campus touches, yes but straight 1-4-7, 1-5-fail, not really.

Strangely after climbing on a board for a period I'd occasionally have a dabble on the campus board and notice a marked improvement.

I do however think touches are great for locking but they're probably very dodgy ground for people with weak elbows.

[Doylo]

I too have always been pathetic at campussing and have been contemplating putting some effort in this winter.  If the likes of Ben and Jerry swore by it and if its an obvious weakness surely it can only improve your power.

[nodder]

I reckon they are usefull.  The shitter you are the more you have to gain.  Doylo would have been to the top of the diamond by now if he campused all last winter. 

[joeb]

I built one this year, never having put in any serious effort, found i could 1-4-7 within about three weeks using it twice a week. Made me feel able to snap through on those holds at the wall as i have always been quite static. Make sure you keep up those push ups as my elbows hurt quite quickly having never had any problems with them in my previous 8 years of climbing. Found just doing pull ups one hand on 1 the other on 3 or 4 or 5 if your brave was a great way of providing a solid training base to help get through those plateaus.

[nik at work]

I have one in my house, I've never used it. Make of that what you will...

[slackline]

I have one in my house, I've never used it. Make of that what you will...

You've got a big house?

[nik at work]

Yes.

[Doylo]

I reckon they are usefull.  The shitter you are the more you have to gain.  Doylo would have been to the top of the diamond by now if he campused all last winter.

Doing circuits all winter would have been of more use. But i wouldn't be weak as piss!

[Doylo]

I have one in my house, I've never used it. Make of that what you will...

Your a lazy git? 

[Jaspersharpe]

I have one in my house, I've never used it. Make of that what you will...

You can't reach the first rung?

[Stubbs]

He can't remember which room he put it up in, it may be behind a false oak wall....

[nik at work]

 

Everyone's a bloody comedian...




(and you're all right)

[Probes]

Please issue forth with opinions of campus boards vs woodies, or combinations of the two.

Ive always found them a benefit. Usually when i come back to them in winter i just get into say laddering 2,4,6,8,10 & down in singles. And build up to 6 reps lof that with a couple mins break in between. Then build again onto 1,4,7,10 & reverse.
I think its the duration that gives you the benefit, if you can stay on the board for 10secs + you start building really body tension & technique and really good locking strength and strong elbows and bad grammer. Just jumping on trying to do a 1,5,8 occassional is just going to hurt.

It defo helps if you train on a steep board all the time, my cellar is 55deg, so after a winter in there youve got shoulders like an ox but have forgotten how to climb up, so it works well to put a few weeks in on a campus. Well thats what i think.

Fingers wise i find after a few sessions i usually build up aenough contact strength and general strength to cope with most routines, its my arms that pack in first.