[TobyD]

I have noticed recently that i have a marked threshold for doing fairly tricky moves (lets say 75% of a one rep max) at around 12 moves; give or take a couple for how much they suit me.

Any opinions / experience of whether the optimum method of increasing this threshold is to target power endurance (4x4s, for example?) or to try and increase maximum power (threshold bouldering / deadhanging?)

cheers, T

[shark]

The optimum method is to work at both.

[lagerstarfish]

It doesn't matter what the desired outcome is, the answer is always "bouldering"

[account_inactive]

I'd like to get rid of this itching in my nether regions?  How would I do that largereererrer?

[lagerstarfish]

bouldering

sorry Creamtime, Friday afternoon has caused me to mess up your thread 

[TobyD]

sorry Creamtime, Friday afternoon has caused me to mess up your thread 

not at all. I like the bouldering solves all the world's problems algorithm.
What do we do about climate change? poverty? the bloody pope?

[lagerstarfish]

bouldering

[lagerstarfish]

The Pope? How hard does he climb?

[tomtom]

Well, he was up working the 'Crucifix' at the cliff yesterday* and I heard that he has had several attempts at 'Revalations'

*he was trying to claim Crucifix low traverse as well (7a - not bad for an old nazi timer) - but there was a blatant cassock dab 1/2 way...

[clgladiator]

'Evolution' isnt really his thing though

[mrjonathanr]

I'd expect you'd find him at Red Walls looking up old friends such as the Missionary and Schittlegruber.

[Serpico]

At the risk of being burned as a heretic for bringing some SCIENCE to this papal thread...
Your ability to do multiple sub-maximal moves is limited by your maximum strength and your ability to store creatine phosphate. Maximum strength in this instance means muscle size - recruiting more muscle fibres will do little to help your endurance, a bigger muscle needs to recruit fewer fibres to move the same load and therefore has more endurance, so no threshold bouldering, do all the classic hypertrophy exercises; long boulder problems, long deadhangs with short rests, heavy finger rolls, heavy grips, etc.
Increasing muscle creatine phosphate stores means doing work that constantly depletes it.
Try:
4x4s and the other classic strength endurance exercises.
Density training - lots of high intensity work with short rest intervals, like:
On The Minute: Do 10 boulder problems starting each one at the beginning of the minute and resting for the remainder of the minute, rest for 10mins then do 8 and rest for 8mins, then 6, 4, 2.
Volume Bouldering: Do a problem every 2minutes for an hour.
Constant Intensity Repetitions: 15 problems of the same grade done with only 2-5mins rest in between.

[nik at work]

a bigger muscle needs to recruit fewer fibres to move the same load and therefore has more endurance.

Is that true. Does a muscle that has been trained and thus increased in size have the same number of fibres as the smaller pre-trained muscle had just that the fibres are bigger/stronger or do developed muscles get more fibres? Obviously this has no real bearing on the point your making, the ultimate muscle surplus will exist in either scenario. But on a point of idle curiosity I'd be interested if you have a definitive answer.

[Serpico]

The accepted view is that the muscle fibres are enlarged after training (hypertrophied). However there is some evidence (mostly in animals) that muscle fibre number may increase (hyperplasia), possibly through splitting, but this remains controversial.

[Serpico]

The accepted view is that the muscle fibres are enlarged after training (hypertrophied). However there is some evidence (mostly in animals) that muscle fibre number may increase (hyperplasia), possibly through splitting, but this remains controversial.

Reading that back it's a little ambiguous; Hypertrophy is fact, Hyperplasia is unlikely.

[nik at work]

Cheers Serps.

[TobyD]

Nice one Serpico. That's exactly the sort of SCIENCE i was after. Any thoughts about whether there is worthwhile PE mileage to be had out of rockrings? I don't currently have access to a finger board without going to a wall.