[jowgli]

Just to let people know the webbing on the top quickdraw on the Free Monster at WCJ cornice has nearly gone through from rubbing on the rock. Probably not dangerous as it is close to the one below it but may be a bit of a surprise to someone if it goes Couldn't replace it as it was attached to a tight malleon.

[dave]

This is exactly why people shouldn't leave shit insitu, especially not with maillons on. It's a national park, not the fucking foundry.

[Falling Down]

 

[Jaspersharpe]

Me too. No fucking need.

[Ru]

Whilst I agree, these two draws are also the lower-off on this route. Not sure what the best solution is.

[dave]

a chain/crab etc?

[Paul B]

Whilst I agree, these two draws are also the lower-off on this route. Not sure what the best solution is.

Bonjoy mentioned installing a proper lower off underneath the last roof for a couple of these Cornice routes. I'll drop him a pm as I might head down there this week.

[Johnny Brown]

What was once considered not valid is nowadays considered okay

[account_inactive]

Why we need in-situ draws, when people carry clip sticks, I don't know. Are people that lazy?  The top to draws on Free Monster could be removed and just leave 2 mallions 

[nai]

Also noticed yesterday that the hanger has been removed from the 3rd bolt on The Thatcher Years and left at the bottom of the route with it's washer and nut.  Seems a bit odd of thing to do, can't see what it achieves.

I'll hopefully be back there this week unfortunately, any idea what size spanner I'd need to put it back on?


 

[shark]

Also noticed yesterday that the hanger has been removed from the 3rd bolt on The Thatcher Years and left at the bottom of the route with it's washer and nut.  Seems a bit odd of thing to do, can't see what it achieves.

I'll hopefully be back there this week unfortunately, any idea what size spanner I'd need to put it back on?

An adjustable one 

[Ru]

Why we need in-situ draws, when people carry clip sticks, I don't know. Are people that lazy?  The top to draws on Free Monster could be removed and just leave 2 mallions 

I can't quite remember how the bolts are situated around the roof, but I think two maillons would just leave the rope dragging on the lip of the roof between the two bolts, which would fuck up both rope and rock. Or would the tight rope between the maillons be in space?

[account_inactive]

Good point.  Is the rock about the last lip (where the thread and tat is) unstable? If not then a belay higher up would be better.

[shark]

General point - IMO the routes at the Cornice would be improved by topping out. 

The jumping off at some random point is all a bit unsatisfactory. I recall scrambling way up the bank when doing Brachiation and think the way it finishes now lacks something. I thought FM and Rumble would be better for topping out. Can't comment on the other routes.

I anticipate this is a minority view (of one?). If not it could be achieved by stake belays near the edge depending on how well they can be driven in. These could get you down to a secondary lower-off. A bit of a faff I know. I'll get my coat..

[kc]

Also noticed yesterday that the hanger has been removed from the 3rd bolt on The Thatcher Years and left at the bottom of the route with it's washer and nut.  Seems a bit odd of thing to do, can't see what it achieves.

I'll hopefully be back there this week unfortunately, any idea what size spanner I'd need to put it back on?

The Thatcher years does not have any bolts in it. Spanner needed for Incapacity Benefit is a 17 for a 10mm bolt

[Ru]

I think its a 12mm bolt as I had a 10mm spanner down there the other day and passed it up to someone who said it was too small.

[Paul B]

I've got an adjustable Nai which I can bring along (tues?)

Shark - If you put a stake belay in how many people would actually use it? Especially with the added hassle required to lower off twice? I'm thinking not many.

I can handle that in Montsant where an 80m rope isn't enough to get you to the chains and back to the floor in one go but on a short peak sport route its a bit much. Especially a route such as brachiation which is commonly used as a warmup, plus stays dry when it rains (or enough to hit the last hold then do a celebration jump).

Good point.  Is the rock about the last lip (where the thread and tat is) unstable? If not then a belay higher up would be better.

A belay round the last roof is going to cause issues stripping routes etc. non?

[nai]

I've got an adjustable Nai which I can bring along (tues?)

Tuesday's good, Paul.  Also free Wed and Fri.  Bring your adjustable, sounds like the best bet.

[chummer]

Also noticed yesterday that the hanger has been removed from the 3rd bolt on The Thatcher Years and left at the bottom of the route with it's washer and nut.  Seems a bit odd of thing to do, can't see what it achieves.

I'll hopefully be back there this week unfortunately, any idea what size spanner I'd need to put it back on?

If it's a 10mm bolt you'll need a 17mm spanner, if it's a 12mm bolt you'll need a 19mm spanner, adjustables spanners are ok for tightening up bolts but you can risk rounding the nut off if it's not properly adjusted and it can be harder to get the nut really tight which is pretty much essential when replacing hangers. Sorry if I'm telling you how to suck eggs. It may have been removed initailly because it had already worked loose.

Also, with regard to using maillons on the belay try and use 2 together as using just one on each bolt means they'll be hanging flat to the crag and this really twists and kinks your rope up when lowering off, etc.

[Paul B]

Can people shed some light on whats currently in place at the top on Free Monster and Brachiation? I was going to go and take a look tomorrow but the wet weather and work has put me off.

[Neil F]

General point - IMO the routes at the Cornice would be improved by topping out. 

The jumping off at some random point is all a bit unsatisfactory. I recall scrambling way up the bank when doing Brachiation and think the way it finishes now lacks something. I thought FM and Rumble would be better for topping out. Can't comment on the other routes.

I anticipate this is a minority view (of one?).

Two actually, Shark.

When you can only get up one route on the crag, you might as well prolong the pleasure.

I went there last year for the first time in donkeys years, and did Brachiation Dance again.  Topped out and scrambled up to the tree, just as I had done years ago.

Had there been a decent stake partway up the bank, I'd have come down off that, but I wouldn't feel I had done the route if I just jumped off - topping out is a hard move, and part of the character of the route.

And I certainly wouldn't have screamed in triumph as someone did on some random video I saw recently. Actually, maybe it was a scream of terror...? 

Neil

[nai]

The top of BD has a bolt with two maillons on and another with an old rusty krab which can't be opened.  Both bolts and the maillons look fine, although I didn't have a good look at the higher one as I wasn't clipping it on my RP attempts.  The krab could maybe do with replacing but I don't think any more bolts are required. 

Not sure about FM but I get the impression that the bolts are fine, it's just the tat on them that's worn.

If it's a 10mm bolt you'll need a 17mm spanner, if it's a 12mm bolt you'll need a 19mm spanner, adjustables spanners are ok for tightening up bolts but you can risk rounding the nut off if it's not properly adjusted and it can be harder to get the nut really tight which is pretty much essential when replacing hangers. Sorry if I'm telling you how to suck eggs. It may have been removed initailly because it had already worked loose.

Cheers, I haven't a clue so any info very welcome.  Not sure I'll be back there this week now but if I am I'll take a couple of spanners along.

[chummer]

Glad to be of help.

I'll take a couple of spanners along.

 Doylo and who else?

[205Chris]

Without wanting to open a can of worms can someone please clarify what the accepted finish of Brachiation Dance is? Does matching the jug get you the tick or is there more to it than that?

[Paul B]

well that depends on your opinion on no topout no tick