[r-man]

Some stuff from a few weeks back. All new except for Andy's Paint it Black I think. Mostly lowball, but some good moves. Details here:

http://peakbouldering.info/boulders/331

[Scouse D]

They look great. Good effort

[Dr T]

They look great. Good effort

second that - must check it out next time I'm peakward
the walk in looks about my distance

[Andy B]

Blimey, I was expecting a maximum of one more grade seven on that wall. Good clearing skills.

I'm gutted about the jug out left at the top of Paint It Black. Those top moves were a cool undercut/ gaston move into the roof direct. I also started matched on the rail on the right, pulled up and put my heel on the left hand starting hold you used, but I bet that doesn't make much difference.

Hope you're enjoying Oz.

[GCW]

That does look pretty good, and well done to all involved.

Limestone roof, steep and low containing short and powerful problems and easy access from the parking?  Hmm, if it were in Lancashire a lot of people would call it shit and that they'd rather bum a beetle

[Andy B]

We went and did the new problems today (except the 6a and 6b at the left end). I thought they were all decent problems, except you can climb the exact line of Witchettygrub with a slightly different sequence that makes it feel about the same as Fudge. I think there is only one problem here really, with a few different ways of climbing it all at about 7a. All the other lines are reasonably independant, with My friend Flicka being the hardest and Orange Si being the best (with the exception of Paint It Black obviously ). Somebody's Head and Orange Si look really low to start, but once you pull on they don't feel arse scraping or dabby, and have good moves on some nice holds.

I also did another new problem here up the groove left of Paint It Black. Sit start on the left end of the starting rail of Paint It Black and pull straight up the groove to finish at the grass line on an obvious juggy right facing flake hold. About 7b+/c ish.

[r-man]

Excellent, glad you had fun. Shame about new beta for Witchettygrub, but hey.

I did try that line left of Paint it Black. There was a damp hold on it, but even so, I thought it felt hard. What was your sequence?

Oz is great. Saw a dolphin in the river last week. Haven't touched rock for weeks, but the local woody is good.

[slackline]

Oz is great. Saw a dolphin in the river last week. Haven't touched rock for weeks, but the local woody is good.

You going to Rockface in Northbridge (my local and closest when I was there), the Hangout (only went once, not overly impressed) or the newer Urban Ascent (only went a few times before leaving as it had only just opened).  Get yourself down to Blackwall Reach for some fun bouldering over the Swan River (mind the jellyfish though!).

Crap shot of a dolphin we clocked on the Swan River...

[Andy B]

I did try that line left of Paint it Black. There was a damp hold on it, but even so, I thought it felt hard. What was your sequence?

The starting rail and the first crimp in the groove were damp yesterday too. As were holds on My Friend Flicka, but everything else was dry. My sequence was pretty basic really. Sit start on the rail down and right of the groove. Lock up too the knobbly crimp in the groove, up to a small spike/ nubbin crimp on the right, up to nice three finger crimps at the top right of the groove, over the small overlap to a perfect comfy sloper, then reach over the top to the juggy flake hold, match.

[cofe]

Andy's new problem:

[r-man]

Slackline - Nice dolphin shot! Would love to see one jumping. Looks like that was from a boat though - I was just sitting on the riverbank as the dolphin mosied around. It's Rockface that I'm frequenting - they have some steep stuff so I'm happy.

Andy - Ah, I did try that sequence breifly. Gave up after expoding off a damp crimp at the top of the groove. Felt like at least 7c to me.

Cofe - nice shot. Feel like uploading it to peakbouldering.info?

[Andy B]

Nice one John.

Andy - .... Felt like at least 7c to me.

You could well be right Robin. I've got no idea on the grade really. 7b+ to 7c+?

[cofe]

It certainly 'looked' no easier than solid 7b+ to me, and I'd wager harder. And of course I didn't try it to form that opinion.

[Ru]

It certainly 'looked' no easier than solid 7b+ to me, and I'd wager harder. And of course I didn't try it to form that opinion.

These look good. Think I'll try and go there later this afternoon/early evening if anyone is about.

[Jaspersharpe]

And of course I didn't try it to form that opinion.

You'd best lip it then, you dick.

[cofe]

7c.

[Ru]

Did most of these last night. Good additions, well done Robin and Dave for cleaning them. Some thoughts:

Somebodies Head - thought the low start on this was very low. Didn't do this one.
Orange Si - Good, agree with 7b. Didn't really understand the rule not to use the nubbin as it didn't make a difference in my mind but made it into an eliminate.
Twice a Slice - thought pretty easy for 6c, especially when compared with Don't Jump.
My Friend Flika - thought this was hard but the right hand hold got pretty damp as the rain poured down.
Witchety Grub - agree with Andy  - 7a by a better sequence and not distinct enough from Fudge to be a separate problem.
Fudge - enjoyed it and agree with 7a
Don't Jump - thought hard for 6c, or at least a lot harder  than twice a slice
Push Me Pull You - thought the pull on point was artificial with a massive jug 6 inches from your left hand. If you start as for Don't Jump it makes it much more logical and better, but easier - about 6b/c.

Andy's new thing - thought it was harder than Paint it Black (but didn't complete it).

[r-man]

Perhaps My Friend Flicka is 7B+? Took me a few more pops than Orange Si.
Don't Jump - this isn't too bad if you don't jump. High left hand crimp, toe out right, flick to right hand jug. But perhaps Twice a Slice is 6B.
Pushmepullyou - we envisoned this as a problem staying right of the crack. Perhaps it's a bit eliminate that way, but I liked the moves.

[measles23]

Someone's left a beanie under Pushmepullyou in the last few days - ffs is it really winter already! I've left it where it is, as it's dry and very well camouflaged.. I found PMPY more comfortable/logical/bit easier starting facing left and going with RH first.. It also has a new finishing jug after my fat ass 'stabilised' the old one.

Well done guys for turning a very literal shit-hole of a venue into a worthwhile and surprisingly pleasant little spot - still a bit disconcertingly public; while I was lying under paint it black a passing good samaritan parked up to ask if I was alright! Mind you lying in a detritus filled hole next to the road in the pouring rain I could see his point..

All problems dry in the rain today (apart from top-out jugs), and PiB is my new favourite thing to fall off - it's a lovely problem..

[Dutch]

Think the beanies mine and it was pretty nippy the other evening while climbing in the pissing rain.  I even had a down jacket on at one point!!  Will try and go out and pick it up today unless someones already nicked it.

[Jaspersharpe]

while I was lying under paint it black a passing good samaritan parked up to ask if I was alright! Mind you lying in a detritus filled hole next to the road in the pouring rain I could see his point..