[JezeJ]

Hi guys, nice forum you have here

I started indoor bouldering at uni 6 weeks ago with a mate. I've tried climbing before, but haven't really done much. I've steadily worked my way up, trying out harder routes etc. I'm still not very good - but have been going pretty much every day for the last 6 weeks, so have obviously improved a bit. About one week ago, I noticed a dull sort of pain in my left elbow, which lasts for a few hours after climbing. It's now got worse, in that it is actually quite painful, and I've often had to cut my sessions from one hour to 30/45 mins as I've been unable to climb with my as painful as it is.

It's like a dull aching pain (mostly in my left arm, a bit in the right), generally from around halfway up my forearm to halfway up my bicep. Feels like it's my bones/joints that are in pain, rather than my muscle. Is this tennis elbow? How can I stop this happening? I don't want to cause myself any damage, obviously I think it is mostly down to my technique - I've been trying to pick up tips from more experienced climbers - one guy today said that I often keep my arms bent, and should try and straighten them out more (this was when I was doing an overhang). I will read up about technique, but was wondering what you guys had to say

Thanks for listening to me rabbit on! Any advice is very much appreciated!

[webbo]

it sounds like a case of overuse.too much too soon.
would you weight train or run everyday for 6 weeks.you need a rest.

[SA Chris]

halfway up my forearm to halfway up my bicep.

Sounds like strain in brachioradialis.

See dodgy elbows article.

http://www.athlon.com.au/articles.htm

PS I'm no doctor - disclaimer etc.

[Dexter]

do you do any antagonistic excersise during/after climbing? If not try some press ups either after your session or during and this may help. I had this last year as I gaining too much bicep strength without triceps to balance it out and by doing a few sets of press ups a day it stopped it completely.
One note however is that I am no doctor although it worked for me it may not be whats wrong.

[Omar15]

hey man,

i had a similar thing when i started too - read the article on dodgy elbows in the link by SA chris. There's a stretch for the brachialis (i think) which i did about ninety million times a day and it really seemed to sort it out for me.

hope you sort it out!

[JezeJ]

Cheers for the advice guys, much appreciated I shall try those exercises and report back

[fried]

Sounds pretty much like what I had when I restarted climbing after a long break, I've never had a convincing explanation for it despite being  x-rayed and ultrasounded. Try reading some of the stuff by Sausage about muscle imbalance. I found doing Theraband exercises 20mins per day for the last 3 months has really helped, although this may be just coincidence. Also if you feel the pain coming on stop straight away, massage it wait 15 mins try something easier. I also make the effort to warm up a bit more. As I say no scientific proof but enough circumstantial.

[webbo]

- but have been going pretty much every day for the last 6 weeks,

i think that most people would end up injured if they bouldered every day for 6 weeks.you need to take some rest days.