[Tim Broughtonshaw]

Ok well first of all this guys a training monster and im sure i would get injured very very quickly trying to replicate his workload.

however am curious as to how he measures the volume of moves he does. i.e. there is speak in progression and some of his webpages of 2500 move circuit/sessions.  Not surely this is 2500 moves in x sets of x moves?  If so would seem logical that they are 100move sets?  all seems pretty ridiculous but obviously works for him. Anyone know any more breakdown of a sample of his training?


Cheers
Tim

[andybfreeman]

IIRC he was doing this as training for leading comps and so logically he would have been doing 25-50 move circuits so 50-100 circuits per day 

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

aye well from an old 8a.nu interview with maya vidmar, the below is her pre comp training schedule.

Monday       - Running
Thusday      - 30 Hand/Foot moves
Wednesday- 70 moves routes
Thursday     - Running
Friday          - 70 moves routes
Saturday      - 30 Hand/Foot moves
Sunday        - 70 moves routes

Cheers
Tim

[chris_j_s]

I'm sure most people would be injured in double quick time trying to follow his volumes.

It always strikes me as odd that he is the only person you hear of doing this yet he doesn't seems to be particularly outperforming others at the top of their game.

In terms of comps surely Ondra is the top of the pile at the mo and I would be interested to hear a breakdown of what he does on his indoor sessions.

On the surface I can't help but wonder whether Patxi is using his time quite as effectively as he could (who the hell am I to be questioning a climber of his calibre though!    ) but I guess it must break down into something more complex than it seems in terms of the mix of intensity and length of circuits.

[abarro81]

I suspect a lot of it will be aerobic capacity, aka 'continuity' (aka 'pimp my capillarising').. 15-40 min sessions of being pumped but still in control. If you shake out a lot doing this you actually get through surprisingly few moves. Randall's the man with more knowledge on this stuff. I'm converted as far as stamina work outs go, you can tag it on after sessions and on semi-rest-days too if you don't do too much.
Chris_j_s: I think a lot of the other comp climbers do loads of volume too. I saw Mrazek say somewhere he would boulder in the mornings then route in the afternoons something like 6 days per week, and the other Spaniards have a rep for doing obscene amounts of training.

[JonI]

Does anyone else get the impression that Patxi might be slightly overtrained?  This is just based from what I've seen on progression, but I find some of the things he says a bit disturbing... 3 months without a single rest day?  It's important to NEVER deviate from the plan?  8 hours of training every day?

Even for an elite athlete, this seems like a lot.  I wonder what he means by rest day?  Surely he must do some days with a very reduced training load? 

Having said that, it certainly seems to work for him...

[ghisino]

according to some rumors last year òmelloblocco (or was it the year before?) someone asked the moves-per-day question to ondra and patxi and the answers were 1500 and 3000 (both referring to a specific phase in their yearly schedule, it is not like that all year long).

anyway, apart from the amount of time and motivation needed for such an enormous volume (ondra does that in the morning before going to school, apparently...), what puzzles me all the time is how exactly a human body can sustain that, since every attempt I make to replicate that approach on even a small scale seems to result very easily in overtraining symptoms, small injuries, etc...I'm less shocked by very high intensities and small training volumes, in comparison.

more specifically : do they simply do those moves at a ridicoulouslow intensity, say as easy as f6a would feel to an f8a onsighter, f5 for the f7a onsighter, etc?
If the intensity is not that small, can they afford it just by...being trained to train hard?
What is the role of careful planning and professional advice/treatment? (eg physical therapy/massage etc as a routine rather than on occasional basis)
Does medicine (=drugs) play a role? If yes is it all "clean" products and practices or does it come close to unreasonable abuse/doping? If doping (or flirting with the doping limits...) is the case, does it happen on a very occasional basis or is it more or less routine, for some athletes/teams at least?

[nodder]

A bit more in an interview, doesnt really say much though.

http://www.baurock.ru/interview2/patxi_eng.htm

[JonI]

nice one, thanks for that.  Although I'm a bit incredulous of the part where he says that he can only just do a single one armer when he's in shape!

The best part of that interview is this picture:

[Paul B]

that and the picture of Tom Bolger after recent success pretty much prove that climbers don't need to have a chest.

[Johnny Brown]

I suspect not having a chest will cause big problems when these guys hit thirty and their posture is totally fucked. 

[Paul B]

about 4 years ago I had a sternum that would let out a massive crack when I rolled over in bed.

[jwi]

I suspect not having a chest will cause big problems when these guys hit thirty and their posture is totally fucked.

Patxi is 30.