Quoteeven if Doug so could make me a 9b climberWho is this Doug? Does he offer coaching? I would so like to be a high 8th grade climber if Doug could make that happen.
even if Doug so could make me a 9b climber
Ah right, I see where you're coming from. I've always found for me (within the context of being in the UK and climbing/training, trips being a bit different) that working less = better gains.DM article is quite interesting, though my two gap years (pre and post uni) have been the best 2 years of my life, so it's definitely a good option for some people! (Not necessarily in terms of getting better at climbing, just in terms of fun).
Alas for me it's the lunchtime quarry bashing I have to make do with
image by Nibile, on Flickr
F*ck me can I come to your house to train Nibs?
Where's Nibs?
Yes, and this is basically what every self-help book does - that 'Regime' post of DM's is just generic self-help applied to climbing. After reading it I find myself thinking that any person who's motivated enough to take the sort of action DM suggests, by definition doesn't need DM's or anyone else's advice on how to do it. Everybody else will just think 'what great advice', not do anything major to change their routine, and move along to the next self-help blog. Perhaps I'm too cynical...It as if he's explaining how to do all the things only the truly committed people do, but it's aimed at people who aren't or can't be truly committed. Like he's talking to himself. Doesn't make much make sense other than it gets people reading.