[c.j.d.]

Not sure where to put this, but here will do just fine I guess...

I went down to the Bay today with the nippers, and to my suprise, it was totally mint.  Everything is in nick, and no grease apparent.

Manchester Dogs is a bonafied V12.  The crimp that has been left is part of as huge loose flake system, which is not long for this world.  Its become quite ugly, so I'm going to ask for permission to remove all of the loose crap around what is left of the starting hold, to ensure that this does not change after it's been sorted.

I think this will then leave a really cool problem once more, but it will be around the 12/13 mark.  Any one object?  I will leave this till next week, so any objections, feel free (bear in mind, the problem as it stands is crap).

Sonic Boom is still a classic!

[fatneck]

Good call Chris. It's always nice to get a positive 'Bay report!
Regarding MD, do what you want with it as long as it increases the grade thereby making Crouchy's goal of ticking the crag considerably harder to achieve 

[Richie Crouch]

If you can alter it to make it a high quality 5* 3 move 8B that would be perfect as a lifetime goal not too far from home

[c.j.d.]

Cool.  It is definitly a bag of... compared to its previous form.  The damage has made it look pretty uninspiring, so I think if it it is stabilised, it will lokk pretty cool again after a season of weathering from the sea to round it all off again (a bit sharp etc at the minute).  It will defo be 8b though (of course)!!

Also, I have now cleaned the new 'line of the crag'.  It really is the 'Karma' of the bay.  V. Hard to find, but staring you in the face....   

Watch this space - hopefuly, photos, video and news soon.  Really F'inf Psyched

[c.j.d.]

The Bay was awesome again today - new problem sent!!!

Also, I have'nt played with/sorted the Dogs out yet.  Maybe I'm waiting for a few more nods in the direction of cleaning it up?  Next week end is the deadline for anyone who is'nt keen.

[Paul B]

sorry to be a pedant but didn't Lincoln confirm it as still being 8a (i.e. V11 in funny numbers?)

[GCW]

Yeah, both he and Sam D thought 8a was fair.

[c.j.d.]

Don't you guys read the news or something

We have had another wicked storm since Adam re-ascended the line.  The starting hold has now completely dissapeared.  i.e. not there at all!  Its left behind a detached flake with a weird crimp at the end of it, and two wobbly blocks (about an inch squared)where the hold ended on the right.

So, totally different style required now to climb this problem, but I pulled with the flake/crimp yesterday, and it flexed like a motherfucker.  Without giving the new sequence away, there is still a hold that works, but its pretty powerful.  Also, bear in mind, I am not bothered or fussed about reclimbing this, it just strikes me as very important to ensure that a once awesome problem retains at least a bit of dignity - it will take a couple of years of tidal weathering to round off the holds in satisfactory manner, but it does need a helping hand.

[c.j.d.]

I've mailed Tanners about this via Facebook, so I will get his take on it soon I am sure.

[GCW]

That News obviously slipped me by.

Think TanMan is away or something, I haven't managed to contact him recently.

[SA Chris]

Is/was stuck in Spain, due to Volcanicity.

[GCW]

At least he can top up on the Bronzing 

[dave]

Is/was stuck in Spain, due to Volcanicity.

So he's trapped under a crate of Volvic?

[SA Chris]

That was the reference I was aiming for dave.

[Doylo]

Tis a shame that.do what you got to do CJD

[Pantontino]

That News obviously slipped me by.

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=449

Sorting out the messed up hold gets my vote.

[Adam Lincoln]

Go for it Chris, no point fixing it and it breaking again. Be good to get a new problem to go and try. 

[Paul B]

Don't you guys read the news or something

Not the welsh news, no.

[Adam Lincoln]

Ok. Went to check this out last night. What a right mess that storm caused. Must have been a hell of a storm! As it stands now, i guess you need to start on that very fragile flake. From here its a massive move to do the original sequence. Then you have the lack of useful feet you did have. Looks very hard now. I didn't try pulling on, but i'd say at least 8b? Either way when that flake comes off, it will render it impossible?

Jordan did a left variant at around the 7b'ish mark, which looks cool.

Also Chris, i repeated what i thought was New Noise the other day, until i watched the video! I started on the good undercut you used with my left, and a good pinch out right, then threw to the lip and finished as you did, albeit a slightly easier heel hook method. I can see starting with both hands almost matched would make it a hard move.

[Doylo]

Twas a meaty storm...