[comPiler]

Nanabozho
11 July 2012, 9:27 pm

After the big news coming from the slate quarries this week i thought i needed to show Caff who's boss and overshadow his poxy slab.  As i stepped outside today it was fresh, dry and windy which felt quite surreal.  I've been playing around on a little project at Llanddulas recently.  I'd noticed the potential for starting up Mudjekeewis and finishing up Wirral Whip a few times over the years but didn't really think that it worked/was worth it.  I was up high on Wirral Whip a few weeks ago taking pictures of Mawson on Mudjekeewis and the holds on the connecting section looked really cool and i got keen to try it.  I returned with Lee Proctor and stuck one bolt in the new section and started trying it.  It was very cool and seemed about 7c.  I was on redpoint when the decent hold on the route exploded off when i was clipping.  At first i was gutted but then is started trying it without the hold and it seemed like it would go so i decided to stick with it without the hold.  It was quite a bit harder and i got excited.  The holds were slippy and slopey and the footholds were hard to use and tensiony.  I sorted the moves and left it for another day.  On my return i found an easier sequence for the end but kept falling on a hard deadpoint to a slopey pinch.  The route does the first hard move on Mudjekeewis and then 5 new, independent moves to gain the jug tufa on Wirral Whip which it finishes up.  Certainly one of the better pieces of climbing on the wall despite not being an entirely new line.  Today i returned with the Cattells- Danny and Mule.  The conditions were good and i felt stronger and soon hit the slopey pod which was the hardest move.  I kept falling afterwards though and tickled the tufa on Wirral.  This move is amazing, you can really launch at the hold and it's really satisfying when you catch it.  With time running out i despatched and topped out.  I've spent so much time falling off this year with my attempts on Walking Mussel that the few times i've got up something it's been a shock.  Mudjekeewis is a spirit from African mythology and the eldest brother to Nanabozho (which is what i've called the route).  It was quite easy to grade as it's a grade harder than Wirral Whip and so 8a. It certainly felt pretty tough and took much longer than the other 8's i've done this year.    



Danny would have got the FA on camera but he didn't press record so here is my best effort falling on the last move slapping the tufa.  Danny is a muppet:



Source: Doylo's blog

[comPiler]

Paratrooper
13 July 2012, 10:57 am

We had two sunny days in a row in Wales which is unprecedented for this year.  It's raining again now obviously.  Yesterday the Orme had recovered in a big way.  The Cave looked very dry and LPT was good too.  Pete Robins managed a mega new 8a+ link downstairs.  Paratrooper does all the hard climbing on Parasite to the rest at the flat break before moving up and right into Battle of the Little Big Orme up which it finishes.  It's pretty cool because you end up climbing Battle with the original left hand sequence which no one ever does now.  Battle was 8a+ when first done by Chris Plant in 1990.  



There was only one 8a+ in the 97 Rockfax but there will be no less than 7 in the new guide:

Pas De Deux - Direct finish to Bad Boy, hard 8a+.

Melancopout - Training link.  Melanchollie to the undercuts then step right and finish up Bad Boy. Likely done years ago.

Bad Melons - Another training link starting up Bad Boy and finishing up Melanchollie. Also likely done years ago.

Melon Beach - Great link climbing the first hard section of Melanchollie, then up Bad Boy and finishing up Mussel Beach (or even better up Parasite).

Moonwalk - Neglected FA by Tommy taking a direct line into Over the Moon Direct. Get on it people.

Paratrooper - See above

Wild Understatement - An upgrade from the last guide. First climbed by George Smith in 89 but ridiculous for 8a (makes Statement look piss).

I was back on Walking Mussel after a enforced 10 day lay off and god it was a battle.  I felt bored and had no zest which basically made it impossible to try hard (which is essential).  I'm going to have to dig deep if i'm going to climb this route, it's well passed the 'fun' stage and i've had enough.  I linked the crux on my 3rd day, it's essentially a boulder problem route and yet here i am still falling.  I'm pretty sure i know what the answer is, i need to get down to my fighting weight and just blow it out the water.  This is problematic as i'm enjoying grub right now and my missus will definitely kick off if i get any skinnier.  I just keep thinking about the battle on Hole Truth last year and then how easy it was when i lost weight.  One things for sure, i need a conclusion to this epic!

Shauna was back in the Cave and climbing more very hard things with minimal effort. This time In Hell, a solid 8a+ coming from the back wall into Rockatrocity.  She said she's only got 2 weeks left in the country this year.  It's alright for some, watch out hard blocs of the world!



Source: Doylo's blog

[comPiler]

Last Drink
21 July 2012, 6:09 pm

Reality has bitten in the last week. I'm in the middle of a 16 day in a row work stint so climbing has taken a back foot.  It's not too bad as the job isn't tiring and i'm only 45 minutes from home but the early starts get to you eventually.  I've been getting out a bit since that surprising day on the box with Smitton and Dylan.  After that day i started to wonder about the link into Last Orders.  It seemed like it might be feasible as long as that day wasn't a one off fluke.  It would give Drink Driving a great finish and would undoubtedly be a better problem with more tricky climbing tagged onto the end (without a rest) as opposed to a nothing piss finish.  The crux of Last Orders is a long stretch and we all know big moves are hard when you're tired so i knew it would be a bastard on the link.  I returned again but failed to do as well.  Drink Driving is essentially all about two moves.  It's 10 sustained crimpy moves to get there and then the difficulty lies in reversing the crux moves of Millenium Drive when you're tired.  I used to be so low percentage on them both when i was first seiging the problem.  In my recent sessions i had been quite consistent on the first move - an accurate span to the MD pinch.  After a couple more duff sessions i hit the pinch again this week.  This time i squeezed it so hard and with every ounce of effort that i could muster i shook my way into the good undercut that marks the end of the hard climbing.  However it is still steep and you can't really rest.  When i did Drink Driving for the first time i shook my way across this finishing section and was so close to falling.  Where Drink Driving drops down to Font 5 territory you grab a undercut with your left and launch straight into Last Orders.  This was new territory for me and i knew i needed to fight.  Almost dropping every move i got to the big crux on Last Orders but my arm melted on the pinch and that was it.  I fell but was chuffed to bits, it was definitely possible.  I returned again with Mr Panton but it started raining so things weren't ideal and i only had one go (on a seperate note go do Where's My Hippo - best 7a on Orme?).  I knew if i could do Drink Driving every go the link wouldn't take long.  This was unrealistic however as although i was a lot better on it, it was still hard! The main thing that was i knew i needed to try as hard as i could when i was crossing under to the pinch.  

Today i left work a bit earlier and planned to go down LPT with Pete Harrison.  I got a txt when i was sitting at the Cave saying he had some car issues so i resorted to plan B - the box!  I didn't really want to be there and wasn't feeling psyched but knew i needed to keep ticking over.  I warmed up and messed about, not really taking things seriously.  Interestingly i worked another sequence for the start of Drink Driving.  It seemed strange to be playing around with it after so many years but the new way involved less crimping and more powerful, bigger holds.  Maybe it could give me the edge.  I only had 2 pads so i stuck them both under Last Orders as the landing isn't so great.  I sat on my jumper (i really hate starting a boulder problem without a pad, it feels uncivilised) and set off wizzing along to the business section.  I felt good and hit the pinch, when you get it you need to move fast before the left hand powers out.  Like the last time i did the move it was all out getting the undercut but once i had something felt different from the last attempt.  I felt stronger and more composed and even managed a few shakes of each arm.  I couldn't believe it, i knew i had a chance.  As i started up Last Orders the surpise grew as i still had some strength and i realised it was on.  I got to the crux and sucked in and stretched and grabbed the good hold.  I matched the finishing crimps above and stepped off onto the box screaming.  It felt amazing!  I knew this new link was a great improvement and one of the hardest things i've done.  It could well be harder than Jack the Drunk.  Jack the Drunk has a hard start but you're fresh.  For this link you need to climb Drink Driving with a bit in the tank and this gave me more satisfaction than anything.  Through all the dismay that this year has brought, the abysmal weather and wet crags, the frustration trying one route and the lack of ticks i have managed to keep myself from getting too pissed off.  And that is because i know i have improved at this game.  I climb better and my base level is so much better.  These days i seem to be able to maintain a much higher level rather than the odd flash in the pan of times gone by.  

There is one more link to do on the box and i can't help but wonder if it's a goer.  The link into Last Rites would be significantly harder again but it's a great challenge and i'll never tire of going to the box.  The new link is called Last Drink, i was saving this name for DD/Last Rites but Pete R suggested 'One for the Road' for that and i think it fits.  Back to work for me, hopefully i won't have to wait as long for another such moment.

Source: Doylo's blog

[Fiend]

Nice one 

[petejh]

Haha nice one beast, hitting form just as summer arrives.

[Doylo]

Haha nice one beast, hitting form just as summer arrives.

Hope so but got a feeling the box is just kind to me 

[comPiler]

Last Orders pics
22 July 2012, 5:06 pm

Some pics of Last Orders from the camera of Mr P.

Undercut to pinch first move, Mr P:



Me on the long crux move to the good hold:





Source: Doylo's blog

[comPiler]

Badger Badger Badger
29 July 2012, 6:32 pm

Ally Smith has completed an old project on the Dive Dive Dive sector on the Upper Drive.  His route Badger Badger Badger (8a+) is essentially a direct start to the classic 7b, Dive Dive Dive.  The route features a hard and reachy boulder problem passing the 2nd bolt, Ally estimated this section to be about font 7b. 6 more long moves then lead to DDD up which the route finishes. Ally reckoned it was comparable in difficulty and style to Energy Vampire (8a+) at Malham.  The route is very morpho so it will be interesting to see how shorties get on.  Nice one Ally, great to have another hard route above the road.  It doesn't look like we're going to break last years record of 13 new grade 8's though.  The weather and lack of new lines has seen to that.  I counted 4 so far.

Since my big tick on Pill Box i've been back a couple of times to try the Last Rites link.  I've got through Drink Driving again both times but the harder finish is a different ball game and it feels some way off.  If you can get through DD every now and again on Last Drink it should just be a matter of time.  On this link significantly more PE is needed.  I've been playing about on Last Rites trying to suss easier beta.  I don't think there is a easier method for me and my beta is quick fro the link.  I'm not convinced it's 7b though, the first hard move off the shit pinch is a bitch on the link.  I'm still adjusting to the fact that i can lap something that has represented my limit for so long - it's a bizarre feeling.  I've had moments like this when i've had a freak day or lost weight but i'm experiencing an elevated level at the moment! It seems i've just got stronger!  I'd definitely be considering downgrading DD if Ed and Dan hadn't of confirmed the grade.  Hopefully if i can keep doing DD i'll make progress on it soon.  I always regarded this one as a pipe dream for me, i thought Ed Hamer would be the man for the job.  So i'm delighted that it's a realistic proposition.

Source: Doylo's blog

[comPiler]

Emancipation!
30 July 2012, 6:20 pm

I ended my LPT 2012 seige today by finally sketching my way up The Walking Mussel.  I started trying the route in March and made quick progress.  It didn't seem like it was going to be too much of an epic - how wrong i was! 

A combination of the worst summer for a very long time and the fact that the two crux moves were so droppable resulted in my biggest route siege yet (apart from The Brute which still eludes me). 

Most years you would never have to contend with seepage on the route but this was no normal year.  A inch wide section of water right where i had to stand caused me much frustration. 

Throughout the whole thing i never lost sight that the end would come if i kept going.  It's pretty handy being an experienced seiger in these situations.  Redpointing at your limit is so hard, after 10 days it's full on mind warfare.  5 weeks ago i was really close but i didn't manage to get back down there. 

Today i went down with Tommy, the chalk on the crag was glowing white and it was cold and fresh so i knew it would be pretty good.  The wet hold wasn't dry but it was better than last time.  First redpoint i dropped the move to the undercut when i really should't have.  It's so frustrating when it's execution that lets you down, i always think: 'a good climber would have done that move then'. 

Next go i was determind to do the move.  I knew i was strong on the next undercut match so i might have a chance if i got there.  Sure enough i got the undercut and stuffed my fingers up it.  I matched really strong and sorted my feet out nicely.  I was dreading the next tricky move, i'd only got here once before.  But this time everything stuck and i was soon at the first reasonable shakout.  It's a weird feeling to break onto new ground when you've been stuck in one place for so long.  I knew a good climber wouldn't drop the end but i needed to get some strength back. 

I shook furiously and screamed expletives to get me psyched up.  I knew i could top out even if it took everything i had.  I quested on up to the undercuts before the crack but didn't feel the need to stay there long.  I knew i had enough strength left and didn't want to pump out trying to recover (this is a problem when you've no stamina).  The crack went well apart from a almost fatal foot fumble.  Soon i was shaking out after the hard bit but i knew i was in- i felt ok.  I wacked in the final handjam, grabbed the good finishing holds and stood on top as the sun shined down on my chest.

Thank fuck for that!  The main emotion was that i was free and i didn't have to go up there again.  After investing so many days into it it had became the main priority of the year, work and everything else had to stand in line.  Dyer had told Robins he reckoned i'd fall off the crack so i'm glad to prove him wrong. 

Although it's a number up i don't feel like i've reached the next level as i've done a couple of routes that aren't much easier.  It was the biggest epic though and i'm just going to enjoy myself for a bit now.  I finished off on Bad Boy and went home for a tuna dinner.  I can't believe i've done my hardest boulder and hardest route in the same week! 

Me and Tommy went down Pigeon's for a look on the way home.  It was pretty dry and i'm keen for my project there.  At least i don't have to feel guilty when i go to the Diamond in a few weeks now!



Source: Doylo's blog

[Fultonius]

Strong effort!

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Imminent Departees
5 August 2012, 12:10 pm

Pete Harrison has climbed a new E7 at Craig y Forwyn.  I went to along to take some pics, it looks a great piece of rock.  Pete took the lob while i was there but got it next go.

It's been nice not to have to stress about LPT and seiging that route.  As is always the case though in climbing your mind soon starts top think about the next challenge.  Once the joy has faded you're left with a lasting satisfaction but also a desire for that feeling of clipping the lower off of a hard route.  The good thing is i can chill out now and enjoy myself.  I've got a couple of FA's i'd love to do.  The Pigeons route depends on a long term shift in the weather though.  If things carry on like they have been it probably won't happen.  I went to Dyserth Waterfall with Spidey and the Cattells yesterday.  Mule's on the comeback trail again.  He's always blighted by injury but is so strong he's soon back on it.  He tried The Hole Truth and blitzed the start but struggled with reach at the lip.  There's not many options for feet if you're short.  It seems that the start which i struggled on so much is actually ok if you're strong, ah to be a beast!  I tried Pete's link Meaty Madness which links Meatsville Arizona into Madness Reigns.  I didn't bother with this last year as it would have been the same grade as Madness and i was sick of going there.  Losing the break on Meatsville means it's definitely harder and pretty damn awesome!  The first roof is hard now.  It's brilliant physical climbing and i'm well keen to try it again when i feel a bit fresher.  Damn that crag's good!

Source: Doylo's blog

[comPiler]

Rodney God Reclimbed
12 August 2012, 9:38 pm

Pete Robins has reclimbed Rodney God and the Oral Twins at the Cutaway after the loss of a crucial hold.  The route was a soft 8a that had a glued on square crimp.  I think it was John Maskell who pulled it off and the route has been in limbo ever since.  Pete worked out an intense new sequence at the top and bagged it in a couple of sessions at 8b.

Pete also did a new DWS on The Little Orme:

"Then we went questing around the little orme in Tommys boat with Neil too. Well good fun, 'E' looks amazing! We spied a great little routeat the right end of the ledge, to the left of the finish of Heel HookLook (which was wet). It goes up the wall to an overlap and jugs abovethen over a bulge past a pocket and 'fang' hold near the top. Wemoored up on the ledge and Neil committed first, went wrong way andfell in! I didn't want to fall in. I found an easier way at start thenheld it together for the exciting finish. Its perfect quality (2stars), above deep water at high tide, not too high, and around 7a+ or 7b. Felt 7b to me but i was scared! def not climbing at Diablo on myown in sept! Call it 'Ledgend'."

I ventured down The Diamond for the first time yesterday with Pete Harrison, Pascal, Smitton and Gus.  It was fantastic to be back at the most inspiring sport crag in North Wales.  It felt tropical, a warm wind was hitting the crag and the rock was really dry (if a little warm).  We stayed down at high tide, it wasn't a high one and everything from the Brute leftwards was fine.  Me and Pete got on Skip of Fools, the George Smith 8a+ left of Boat People.  It was inspiring watching Jimmy Big Guns screaming his way up it last year.  It looked brilliant!  First go up i was a bit baffled.  There are so many potential holds and on this bit of wall i was struggling to find the best ones.  The first 3 bolts contain the hardest moves, this bit is really fingery.  Then you get to perhaps the only shakeout on the route (and its not a great one) before a sustained romp to the belay.  The majority of the holds are pinches (and often quite slopey ones).  It really took a bit to get my head round it.  Pete sussed some cool beta and sequences on the top and i got a sequence on the start.  It's the kind of route that should feel easier every go up as you get it more dialled but jesus it will be a beast to link it all.  It's one of the purest power endurance routes i've been on, it hardly lets up at all.  Brilliant moves all the way.  It's a great contrast to Walking Mussel and i'm psyched to get fitter.  Pascal and Smit warmed up on Boat People then Pascal got on The Brute and Smit got on Never Get Out of The Boat.  Ry was obviously inspired by The Brute and he was really impressive on it considering he's not been psyched recently.  He got to the high redpoint crux 2nd redpoint and will have a good chance of nailing it next time.  Smit did NGOOTB and Gus was psyched to be there in good conditions for once and nailed Boat People.  This crag is so fucking awesome, its crazy that its banned for the period of year when it's most mint.  The main bit of crag has no birds, there is a nest up by Rub a Dub Dub and the rest are up and right of The Brute.  Surely we can have partial restrictions on this cliff like they do at so many.  It's criminal that it's so out of reach  



Source: Doylo's blog

[JohnM]

Oh yeah forgot about that!  I still have the hold somewhere.  It was fat Dave P who ripped the hold off though! 

[Davo]

Very slack Maskell, you should have repaired that ages ago!

[JohnM]

Nah that hold had no place being there and I knew that one day someone would come along and climb it again to create a super classic 8b.  Now we have an almost perma-dry, non-tidal 8b on the Orme.  I might glue the hold to the top of Indian Summer to make it easier for me.  Anyway, shouldn't you be in France getting fat and weak on your package holiday instead of being on UKB!?

[Doylo]

Fat scouse bastards

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Three Day Event
15 August 2012, 4:40 pm

Pete Harrison has climbed a fine companion route to his neo-classic Red Meat on Craig Pen Gogarth.  Pete reckons his new route is 3 stars and like Red Meat it takes the full length of the crag.  Three Day Event goes at 7b+/7c.  For a more detailed report check the V12 news item.  Pete is on a mission at the moment, expect more cool ascents soon!

Source: Doylo's blog

[comPiler]

Skip of Extended
22 August 2012, 8:08 pm

Pete Robin's has kicked off Diamond season by giving Skip of Fools a logical extended finish to the first belay of Boat People.  For some reason Skip finishes in a rather random place a few moves from the easier ground above.  Pete's finish gives a few more tricky moves bumping the grade a bit higher up the 8a+ grade.  He also added an alternative direct start.

Today Pete rattled off the 4th ascent of the Brute confirming it's super duper quality.

I haven't climbed much since I did Walking Mussel.  This has not been through choice, indeed i wanted to climb some more stuff while i was climbing well but other things have got in the way.  I miss the endorphins and that feeling of being on a mission though.  Today i popped into the Cave after 3 glutonous days in Italy and unsuprisingly i felt rather shit.  I've also picked up a bad shoulder from somewhere which doesn't help matters.  I ran down to Pigeons on my way home.  My project there is my main route goal really but alas it was not dry.  It hasn't been dry for more than a few days all summer and it looks like it's going to stay that way.  No more being a fat tourist rubbing shoulders with annoying yanks, its all about the crush.

Source: Doylo's blog

[comPiler]

Back on It
27 August 2012, 8:46 pm

I've been trying to get back into the climbing groove this week.  The body is starting to wake up, today i headed down the Diamond with Tommy and Pascal. It's been frustrating hearing about people lapping it up down there.  Everyones been trying Skip of Fools and Pete Robins has been checking out proj's.  Goddamit the place has so much potential.  I'd love everything to be done for the next guide so i can look at the page full of meat with high 8's.  Hopefully a few will get completed.  Pete text me today that he feels "like Edlinger at Ceuse in the 80s".  It's a great quote and there are lines here that wouldn't be out of place at such a crag.  Today was shitty weather but the rock was just about ok.  The rain was blowing in after a bit but we were on the crag so couldn't complain too much.  We all climbed on Skip, Tommy has been trying it a bit and dispensed the beta.  It felt like a different route this time and i really enjoyed working it out with a bit more knowledge.  It's fuckin brilliant climbing, ace sidepulls, pinches and guppys.  Pascal got it sorted and despatched and me and Tommy did some linkage.  The Robins extension incorporates one more hard move after the original belay but i think it's the only way to go now.  It would leave a hollow feeling stopping at that nowhere belay now knowing that one more move leads to easy ground at the same grade.  Having said that the last move will be a heartbreaker i'm sure!  Despite sport climbing all year i haven't done much endurance climbing so its feels like a nice change.  The Brute defo feels like a bit more than a grade harder to me though.

Pascal on The Brute last time:



I feel so much better after getting out.  I literally depend on the climbing buzz to live a happy life these days.  Everything just feels so much better after being out on the crag.  I like my missus more, i like my tea more, i like my bed more.  I love getting in starving and feeling worked and then chilling out and planning the next hit.  I'm a addict- fuck i better not get injured.

Source: Doylo's blog

[Monolith]

Everything just feels so much better after being out on the crag.  I like my missus more, i like my tea more, i like my bed more.  I love getting in starving and feeling worked and then chilling out and planning the next hit.

Brilliantly simplistic reasoning of why one must never give up.

[petejh]

Back on It
27 August 2012, 8:46 pm
The Robins extension incorporates one more hard move after the original belay but i think it's the only way to go now.  It would leave a hollow feeling stopping at that nowhere belay now knowing that one more move leads to easy ground at the same grade.
Source: Doylo's blog

 

[Doylo]

Back on It
27 August 2012, 8:46 pm
The Robins extension incorporates one more hard move after the original belay but i think it's the only way to go now.  It would leave a hollow feeling stopping at that nowhere belay now knowing that one more move leads to easy ground at the same grade.
Source: Doylo's blog

 

Did you do it?? Its allowed at first of the grade! 

[petejh]

 

I don't feel any more hollow than usual 

[Pantontino]

 

Nice work Pete!

[comPiler]

New Dinbren 8b From The Dog
29 August 2012, 9:35 pm



My old mucker Sam (mule) Cattell finally completed his project at Dinbren today.  This route has been Mules main goal for a year or so but constant injury and a temporary exodus to Sheffield stopped him in his tracks.  Mule got involved again recently but the tricky conditions at the crag didn't help matters.  Despite this he remained focused and trained specifically for the route.  The route is a bit of a power endurance affair but expect some burly ass moves.  Mule has given it 8b but has yet to come up with a name (i bet its a sandbag too).  The route is located on the far left hand side of the crag, basically the last route.  It's a great reward for a man/animal who has been plagued for injuries over the years and because of this hasn't managed to fulfil his potential despite being a complete monster.  Dinbren now has 4 8b's:

Insomnia - Pete Chadwick

El Zapazitas - Rob Mirfin

Binary Finary - Rob Mirfin

? - Sam Cattell  





Source: Doylo's blog