I was over the moon to make progress
... I don't think Whisky Bitch is 7b though unless Mr Whippy is too - I don't flash 7a+ but somehow WB succumbed. Maybe I'm just fucking awesome.
do you think pill box original left hand (the crack head beta version) deserves its own grade doylo? Seeing how its a complete maybe worth a mention here at 7A?
I always used to think 7a+ for WB but enough folk said 7b over the years that i just presumed i was a monster. It probably is 7a+ though, you reading this Mr P Mr Whippy is the toughest 7a+ on the OrmeQuote from: Gritlad on June 16, 2012, 09:48:41 pmdo you think pill box original left hand (the crack head beta version) deserves its own grade doylo? Seeing how its a complete maybe worth a mention here at 7A? i think if its the same grade however you do it (which it is) then theres no need to describe every method.
Quote from: Doylo on June 17, 2012, 10:02:05 pmI always used to think 7a+ for WB but enough folk said 7b over the years that i just presumed i was a monster. It probably is 7a+ though, you reading this Mr P Mr Whippy is the toughest 7a+ on the OrmeQuote from: Gritlad on June 16, 2012, 09:48:41 pmdo you think pill box original left hand (the crack head beta version) deserves its own grade doylo? Seeing how its a complete maybe worth a mention here at 7A? i think if its the same grade however you do it (which it is) then theres no need to describe every method.I reckon WB is soft/steady 7B, Mr Whippy is hard 7A+ for the dyno method (I'm sure Nodder would agree if I showed him my beta), possibly 7B for the undercut method.Chocolate Wall is nails for 7B - I've seen lots of good climbers, some very, very good (like Bransby) fail on this. Katz reminded the other day that Clemmow actually called it Chocolate Dipper originally. Awful name but historically correct I suppose.Has anybody repeated it using Clem's original sequence (i.e. using the sidepull straight above the niche)?Oh, and I don't think Screwball (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=593) is an eliminate; I would describe it as a tight line. There are other problems here that are less independant.Good to see folk getting psyched about Pill Box - 5 years ago you couldn't drag people there. And lastly can I just say again how good Ben Farley's Where's my Hippo is. A contender for the best 7A on the Ormes:
Mr Whippy is hard 7A+ for the dyno method (I'm sure Nodder would agree if I showed him my beta)