[Simon_W]

Hi world,

Any thoughts on this? I had an session at the wall over a week ago which ended in a few sets of inadvisable campuses.
I wasn't suprised to have rock solid forearms  that hurt to move the next day.
But 9 days later and I still can't pull hard, no pain, but not much power.
I was expecting to recover stronger!! Am I broken?

[slackline]

I usually find hair of the dog works well  (failing that Irn-Bru).

Oh wait, wrong sort of session 

[SA Chris]

Do some non-climbing CV exercise to get the blood flowing. 9 days des seem a lot though.

[Simon_W]

It feels like a life time. I'm off for some physio on my ankle tonight. Perhaps Wonder Woman can shed some light

[psychomansam]

Sauna/Steam Room + stretching = recovery of kings!
(If in shef, S10 health pool = £4 to non-students, including steam+sauna)

Could try a low-powered session at the wall, do some easy circuits with lots of stretching etc.

Are you eating well, sleeping well, have you been a bit run down, stressed, ill, have you been drinking? All basic recovery issues.

Maybe you had your Accapi on backwards? Been the end of many a good climber....

 

[Paul B]

Sauna/Steam Room + stretching =  dehydration + stretching?

Resulting in slower recovery times.
Shirley?

[psychomansam]

Tis a valid point, but not an issue if you're sensible. I drink water before, during and after sauna, and tend to err on the side of over-hydration, giving friends the impression of having an OAP bladder.

Nice freezing showers in between sauna stints too. So basically using it as a heat/cold treatment, adding in some stretching during the heat phase, and with the (probably more useful) advantage of pumping blood round lots, without actually having to work the muscles beyond stretching.

[a dense loner]

sauna's are the way forward for recuperating. how can magnus samuelson be wrong? all you need to do to stop dehydrating paul is to rehydrate, he is are you?
9 days is ridiculous, something else is at work here

[Simon_W]

Strangely different finger pairs seem to be recovering a different rates. Middle 2 pretty much back to par, front and back still a bit weedy.

Diet, alcohol reduction and aerobic other stuff. That shall be my focus.

Thanks for replies...

[RowanSB]

Im curious how long it took you to finally recover Simon? I'm going through something really similar at the moment, had a really heavy training load over 2 weeks (just bouldering, no stamina stuff). I've pretty much been resting for a week and a bit and my forarms are still feeling destroyed 

[SiW]

(Note change in name)

It took quite some time to get strength back. I lost count really but you want to hope it doesn't take that long for you! On the positive side, when I got better, I was stronger than ever.

I remember my fore arms were solid for weeks. If it's finger pulling power your missing and your forearms are none too relaxed, I suggest you get some antagonistic work going - reverse curls basically, sauna if available, and massage. Rolling a tennis ball up and down the table with your forearm is good (Myofascial release). Running is bound to be a good idea as well.

If you have any magic to cure beastmaker-mono-idiocy sydrome, I'd be please to hear about it  ???

Good luck.

[RowanSB]

It's mainly my forarms and back that are screwed, ive been resting for almost a month now, muscles are still weak and sore. Its good to hear that you got your strength back afterwards, there may be some hope for me after all! Ive been going on short runs to try and aid circulation and all that jazz. I'll definately be more carefull next time i push it that hard!

[D4NNY]

Did exactly the same on Tuesday evening, noticed my arms to be a little sore on Wednesday, but thought it was just because i had been pushing quite hard. But when i went back on Thursday it was ridiculous , i could hardly climb. Not going to go back until Tuesday/Wed and just hope they have recovered. Going to try some Mountain Biking, Sauna, Swimming before however.

Good luck to all fellow sore ppl!

[account_inactive]

Try taking a protein supplement pre-workout.  Plenty of information on the web about this that might help.

Also interesting research into Sodium Bicarbonate http://www.bodybuilding.com/fun/mohr88.htm

[Serpico]

Also interesting research into Sodium Bicarbonate http://www.bodybuilding.com/fun/mohr88.htm

Q: Chris,
Have you ever heard of anyone eating baking soda to help reduce muscle soreness? A guy at my gym swears by this practice and said he can no long squat without shitting himself.

If you've got soreness and tightness that lasts more than a week it sounds like you've got some muscle spasm, go see a sports massage therapist and get it worked out. In fact I'd go anyway after any heavy training session.