[gruffalo]

i am stuck on v6/v7 built my self a board three months ago and need some advice on how to use it properly to get stronger. any surggestions for a weekly work out i am up for putting in the time

[Krank]

1. set some problems you cant do and then try to do them every tues, thurs and sat night.
2. buy a beastmaker and hang from it

That is all

[gruffalo]

i have a beast maker thank fuck!!!! think i need to keep plugging away doesnt happen over night......

[Jim]

seriously, do lots of pull ups

[gruffalo]

your talking about a pull up bar or on the beastmaker.... ;

[chriss]

I'm no training guru, but if you have been doing the same shit for the past 3 months your body has probably got used to it. Why not try something different from the norm to shock your body into adapting again. Anyway that's my 2 bob's worth.....

[Jim]

your talking about a pull up bar or on the beastmaker.... ;

doesn't matter, the main thing that will be holding you back now is lack of upper body strength.
can you lock off on one arm on a pull up bar?-train this (both arms)
lots of pull ups. a good goal to get your upper body strong is doing a one armer.
Also lots of outdoor climbing at steep venue's (eg the cave/the bowderstone)

[gruffalo]

NICE ADVICE i can do a one armer with right and struggle with the left point made!!! how many pull ups should i be aiming for?? heston is licking of shit loads......

[Krank]

heston is licking of shit loads......

how does he find time to do all that cooking?

If you can already do a 1 armer i would guess your upper body strength is good enough, me and my mates climb about the same grade as you but none of us can do a 1 armer, maybe its not pull ups you need.
what are your fingers like? what holds can you hang on your beastmaker?

[Jim]

krank has a good point unless you only weigh 60kg (ie one of my legs)
finger strength and pure experience (ie getting out to loads of venues with climbers better than you) are next on the list.
pull ups are still good tho

[shark]

i am stuck on v6/v7 built my self a board three months ago and need some advice on how to use it properly to get stronger. any surggestions for a weekly work out i am up for putting in the time

One thing that you might consider working into board sessions is systems type work where you repeat basic moves or hold positions that you want to get strong on. So you might do a session where you hold a lock-off on poor feet for 3-5 secs perhaps 3-6 times each arm. Covering the key moves/positions should include gastoning, undercutting and cross throughs as well. You should use a variety of hold types as well - sloper, pinch, pocket, crimp. Sort out 5+ exercises to do. Do the exercise that you most want to improve on first (after a thorough warmup). Take about 5 mins rest between sets. Make a note of your session (time/reps) and try to beat it on your next session. 

[gruffalo]

yep i started to do some system training last week noticed it forces you to use good body per sition it can only be a goon thing!...had a look at neds post on the works for the intermediate beasting nearly compleated it dont know about three times! spotted a weakness there already

[The Sausage]

How long have you been climbing for?

[gruffalo]

a few years.. only started taking training seriously last two years..