[rodma]

I know that this may well have been covered before but, how much (of a two hour session say) is actually spent bouldering?

Last night I was helping some geezer out with some research he was doing down the wall and I had to climb for no more than two minutes, but achieve a full pump in that period of time. I achieved this by lapping a reasonably hard problem as fast as I physically could and indeed ended up boxed after just two mins.

This morning I feel totally wiped out, but I probably only spent a total of 10 minutes on the wall last night, which got me to thinking how much time I would normally spend on the wall during a normal session. I doubt it's more than 20 minutes all in, with a very small proportion of this approaching hard physical effort, maybe I'm just lazy though 

[iain]

Hey Roddy, that probably sounds about right. Haven't been bouldering indoors properly in a long time but for fingers my repeater sessions only have 8 minutes or so of actual contact time, and a max-ish hang session probably less than 4 minutes contact time, but I feel properly worked at the end.

So i don't think you're lazy but you're confirming my low volume work ethic, thanks 

[rodma]

Yeah Iain, that sounds about right for a repeaters session.

It only just came to me the other night that my training ethic is shocking. I mean I always try to pull really hard, but I rarely do enough work. That's probably why lifting weights made such a difference for me, as I actually tricked myself into doing a reasonable amount of hard work in a relatively short session. Certainly a lot more than when at the wall. I think it's about time I wrote myself a little training plan.

I know it was a bit of a boring question to ask and more than a little punterish  sorry.

[Stu Littlefair]

hey Roddy,

your question got me wondering, so I added up my time on rock for the last few sessions (aimed at endurance and stamina). There's been an average of about 40 minutes on the wall in a three hour session.

Obviously, it'd be a lot less if I was training strength....

[Krank]

i have been doing 2x1hr board sessions, separated by a 15 minute rest, and will try a problem on every 5 Min's through the hour. It means I'm getting no more than 10 Min's on the board in the hour, the rests are quite long about 1 min per move but it means on each attempt I'm fresh and can pull as hard as possible. This coupled with a bit of back work worked very well at the start of this year/end of last year. Quality over quantity is important.

[Three Nine]

hey Roddy,

your question got me wondering, so I added up my time on rock for the last few sessions (aimed at endurance and stamina). There's been an average of about 40 minutes on the wall in a three hour session.

Obviously, it'd be a lot less if I was training strength....

If I were

[SA Chris]

.... a stronger man.

Carrying the weight of popular demand.

[Stu Littlefair]

Would that alarm her?

[Stu Littlefair]

If I were

Don't think you can outgrammar me. I've never been a fan of the subjunctive mood in english and it is, quite rightly in my opinion, dying out like the unnecessary appendage that it is. It's perfectly obvious from my sentence that I'm talking about something other than present fact...

[Serpico]

If I were

...a rich man,
Ya ha deedle deedle, bubba bubba deedle deedle dum.
All day long I'd sit and correct people's grammar...

[Adam Lincoln]

Just watched Progression again, and this is the extreme end of the scale, but Patxi does 2500 moves a session, when training for comps.

So, i was discussing this with Serpico at the wall yesterday, and, on average, looking at the vid, per move your looking at between 2-4 seconds. Lets say 4 seconds. That's just over 2.5 hours on the board a day.

[Three Nine]

If I were

...a rich man,
Ya ha deedle deedle, bubba bubba deedle deedle dum.
All day long I'd sit and correct people's grammar...

Makes you sound like a chav

[rodma]

If I were

Don't think you can outgrammar me.

 

I have to say that Stu is the only person I have ever witnessed using "A Priori" in a sentence, which is well impressive imho (mostly due to working for a company with that name and getting fed up with spelling it to everyone).

[rodma]

hey Roddy,

your question got me wondering, so I added up my time on rock for the last few sessions (aimed at endurance and stamina). There's been an average of about 40 minutes on the wall in a three hour session.

Obviously, it'd be a lot less if I was training strength....

I used to be on the wall for a similar amount of time when training for routes.

i have been doing 2x1hr board sessions, separated by a 15 minute rest, and will try a problem on every 5 Min's through the hour. It means I'm getting no more than 10 Min's on the board in the hour, the rests are quite long about 1 min per move but it means on each attempt I'm fresh and can pull as hard as possible. This coupled with a bit of back work worked very well at the start of this year/end of last year. Quality over quantity is important.

I've never been scientific enough to time my rests, but completely agree about quality over quantity. Tonight I intend having a hard session at the wall, so will take longer rests between problems (or attampts at them), but I never time the rests, I only go on how recovered I feel.

Just watched Progression again, and this is the extreme end of the scale, but Patxi does 2500 moves a session, when training for comps.

So, i was discussing this with Serpico at the wall yesterday, and, on average, looking at the vid, per move your looking at between 2-4 seconds. Lets say 4 seconds. That's just over 2.5 hours on the board a day.

That's a hell of a lot of time and is a ridiculous feat which clearly pays off

I think that for one session a week I'll probably start playing around with 1minute on 2 off, or 2on-4off, to see if it helps a bit (with the on part being at max difficulty sustainable for that period of time). I can't just keep throwing myself at the campus-board after all 

[shark]

I was thinking this only this week. The finger endurance laddering sets I have started doing again feel like a good workout but in fact I am only climbing/hanging on for a combined total of 4.5mins in a 20minute period and that's after a 20 minute warm up which seems rubbish when you write it down.

It highlights how much Stu is doing in his sessions never mind Patxi.

[slackline]

I was thinking this only this week. The finger endurance laddering sets I have started doing again feel like a good workout but in fact I am only climbing/hanging on for a combined total of 4.5mins in a 20minute period and that's after a 20 minute warm up which seems rubbish when you write it down.

It highlights how much Stu is doing in his sessions never mind Patxi.

4.5 minutes out of 20minutes (== 0.225) is roughly equivalent to 40 minutes out of 180 minutes / 3 hours (~= 0.2222), so you're not too far off each other.

[shark]

4.5 minutes out of 20minutes (== 0.225) is roughly equivalent to 40 minutes out of 180 minutes / 3 hours (~= 0.2222), so you're not too far off each other.

Very kind of you to say so but I think we both know that the conclusion is untrue

The flaw in the deductive reasoning being similar to 20miles being the real halfway stage of a marathon except that I have only done 4.5miles. 

Last week Stuart was training endurance by doing laps with a weight belt on the Wave on problems that would be strength training for me if I could do them.

[slackline]

You should try harder then 

[Krank]

Right so i counted up(a bit more realistically) and if i climb each problem for a max of 30 secs that gives me 12 minutes pulling time over 2 hours. I do this 4 times a week which gives me 48 minutes of training per week. Is this really enough training to get strong? or should the levels be raised significantly?
I have never trained for anything else so i cant really compare my routine to other sports.

[Serpico]

Right so i counted up(a bit more realistically) and if i climb each problem for a max of 30 secs that gives me 12 minutes pulling time over 2 hours. I do this 4 times a week which gives me 48 minutes of training per week. Is this really enough training to get strong? or should the levels be raised significantly?
I have never trained for anything else so i cant really compare my routine to other sports.

The Patxi example is extreme and is also for endurance training, strength is a different matter...
When I've estimated how much time I spend on the wall it works out at 50 - 90mins for an endurance session, and 10-20mins for a strength (bouldering) session.
10-20mins doesn't sound like a lot of stimulus but i think it's about right given the nature of the activity.
If talking about finger strength training, and in particular finger boarding then I think 2-3mins total work is enough, which sounds like nothing - but how long would 3 sets of pullups take? (not inc rest) ~30secs for 10reps x 3. Also I've done a lot of searching on isometric training, comparing the different protocols and the best results typically have a total work time of only 1-2mins:
http://books.google.com/books?id=ylsfDoufD_4C&pg=PA45&dq=isometric+training+studies&cd=1#v=onepage&q=isometric%20training%20studies&f=false  (scroll up to pg15).

[Krank]

Cheers Serpico.

[rodma]

The Patxi example is extreme and is also for endurance training, strength is a different matter...
When I've estimated how much time I spend on the wall it works out at 50 - 90mins for an endurance session, and 10-20mins for a strength (bouldering) session.
10-20mins doesn't sound like a lot of stimulus but i think it's about right given the nature of the activity.
If talking about finger strength training, and in particular finger boarding then I think 2-3mins total work is enough, which sounds like nothing - but how long would 3 sets of pullups take? (not inc rest) ~30secs for 10reps x 3. Also I've done a lot of searching on isometric training, comparing the different protocols and the best results typically have a total work time of only 1-2mins:
http://books.google.com/books?id=ylsfDoufD_4C&pg=PA45&dq=isometric+training+studies&cd=1#v=onepage&q=isometric%20training%20studies&f=false  (scroll up to pg15).

That all sounds about right, and also goes a long way to explaining why my body doesn't ache like I've been training for the last 20 years.

[Norton Sharley]

I was thinking this only this week. The finger endurance laddering sets I have started doing again feel like a good workout but in fact I am only climbing/hanging on for a combined total of 4.5mins in a 20minute period and that's after a 20 minute warm up which seems rubbish when you write it down.

It highlights how much Stu is doing in his sessions never mind Patxi.

4.5 minutes should be more than enough to get up the Oak shirley?  You could then have 15.5 minutes off before embarking on your next 15 year project