[Zods Beard]

Yo, had a look at this today. When I go from the big sloping hold do I grab the arete in my left hand and rock right to the dish? And am I kidding myself that it looks fairly easy? Thanks.

[Jim]

am I kidding myself that it looks fairly easy?

yes, despite what johhny nutkins sez

[Krank]

heres an old thread, its got beta in it http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,7246.msg106080.html#msg106080

Im looking forward to spending sunday falling of it

[Zods Beard]

Nice Krank, I did try the search function for once, obviously not well enough.

[Krank]

no bother

[dave k]

I don`t think grabbing the arete with the left then rocking to the right works- lack of decent foot holds is the problem.

The start is tricky if you go direct from matching the break to the thin pocket on the face. There is a sneaky heal out right which makes getting up to the thin pocket more manageable.

Regarding the finish of the probelm- Guppy with the left proved key to me. I have not managed/tried bringing left foot on to the starting hand hold/break. If that works then it will make the last move less of a uncontrolled throw.  I have only ever done it direct from the position in photo to top with left hand.

This problem is definitely about technique/sequence-on first climbing it i could not believe it was only 7b+. Having said that i campussed the first move and dynoed the last (both of which seem unneccesary!)

Great problem

[Krank]

Dave, I'm shocked you powered your way through a problem, most out of charactor

[jonjon]

lots of guppy with left, then with right then keep going ever higher with left guppy till your skin gives way on your thumb pad.