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Apocalypse Now - Roaches Upper Tier Dyno Problem... (Read 1958 times)

jowgli

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Does anyone know the original start holds used in this problem? The guide vaguely says dyno to the top of the block from the low holes. When I was there a couple of days ago a climber told me to gaston the massive hole with my right whilst using a reasonable sidepull up and left for my left. Is this correct?

If this is the case I think for my height the problem will be more like font 6c rather than 7a+

Johnny Brown

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Quote
guide vaguely says dyno to the top of the block from the low holes

Doesn't sound at all vague to me. I suspect if an intermediate sidepull was intended it would have been mentioned.

edit: on the other hand, if the first ascentionist suggests otherwise - he's right.
« Last Edit: February 07, 2010, 07:48:28 pm by Johnny Brown »

mini

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Yep, as per the horses mouth on the other channel ;)

AndiT

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 :agree: My guidebook says 'Lanky V4' and that sidepulls are in.

It was a nice evening though, eh!

jowgli

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ye it was quality :) not trying to undermine your beta lol but looking for a consencus. Did phil or joe latch mean ol' bastard in the end??
I reckon those rocks were a few of the only dry boulders in the peak

Gus

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The way I remember me, Andi and Mark doing Apocalypse now back in the day wasn't from the holes at all, but instead from matched on a very low, left facing side pull? Andi can you confirm this. I remember it being really weird as you can't push off your feet very much so a bit of lank helps!

 

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