[maybe_si]

Prisonbloc eh? I like it!  Im not sure who told you that the resin footholds are a temporary measure, I fear that they may be misinformed, the resin footholds are here to stay!  We are however still waiting for more Beastmaker footholds to add to the board (have been waiting for quite some time now!)

For those of you who are dead set against the resin footholds..... dont use them! The board has seen considerably more use since we put them up and pretty much all the feedback we have got about them is positive   

We are currently addressing the slightly erratic grading, this should be sorted soon.

As always all feedback is most welcome and we shall do our very best to please everyone, hope to see you all down at the comp this Saturday 9th, its shaping up to be a great day!

Cheers

Simon

[shark]

As always all feedback is most welcome and we shall do our very best to please everyone, hope to see you all down at the comp this Saturday 9th, its shaping up to be a great day!

Cheers

Simon

Feel free to post it in the competitions section: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/board,11.0.html

[fiveknuckle21]

For those of you who are dead set against the resin footholds..... dont use them! The board has seen considerably more use since we put them up and pretty much all the feedback we have got about them is positive  :thumbs

I bet it's not as positive as those footholds

[highrepute]

Maybe it's because I'm weak but I'm much in favour of the new resin holds on the beastboard. I was struggling to do many moves without my feet coming off before (if i wanted to campus I'd use a campus board), feel I can make better us of the board now . I think the problem with the board is the beastmaker foot holds don't go well with the steepness of the board (i've been quite happy with them at the works) - so some larger foothold are necessary.

[maybe_si]

Now Andy, not everyone has guns as big as yours!!

[Adam Lincoln]

First time tonight. Great wall, and will add it to my climbing wall circuit. No real bad things i can think off. Guess the heat in summer, but was fine tonight. 

[Serpico]

I had my first visits this week and found it a bit disappointing - the facility overall seems good and the staff seem friendly enough, but although there weren't many people in it soon started to get too warm and there was condensation dripping off the glass roof on to the matting. What really let it down though was the route setting, there were some very good problems but there were far too many overly reachy problems and the majority of the easier problems were unimaginative.
I'm going to give it a few more visits to see if I've just caught it on a bad set.

[IanP]

Short person in problems too reachy shock 

To be more fair I do think the latest set of problems possibly aren't the best.  The white circuit has some good problems (maybe a bit easy for you) but  on first aquaintence the new reds don't seem the best and and I don't think the comp wall problems are as good as the previous set.  On the plus side they reset the problems regularly so maybe you'll like the next set better.

On the conditions front I think last night was strange weather a November night with 16 degree temperatures and heavy rain!  Conditions have been fine over the last few weeks.

[gremlin]

I was there last night and it was a bit warm but it didn't bother me.

The main problems I would highlight are is the horendous level of traffic in the evenings (not much can be done about that) and the price (think I paid £7.50).

Other than that I've enjoyed my visits to Rockover. I'm loving the campus board there with a set of rungs on it so deep even I can get to the top! 

[Ru]

I did some of the reds the other day - I thought that the ones I did were pretty good. I also haven't found the problems too reachy, but I haven't tried any of the harder, less steep problems on smaller holds.

Generally I think that the suggestions are being listened to and it's shaping up into a good wall.

[maybe_si]

Hmm, im not sure about it being so hot the condensation was dripping off the roof (im currently sat behind reception wrapped in RAB downy goodness!), chances are as it was belting it down with rain we may have had a small leak, unfortunately this is the curse of having a beautiful old glass roof, loads of natural light but we are forever repairing it!  As for the setting we always embrace everyones feedback, it is much easier to get it in person though so if something is bugging you then please feel free to let us know/vent your anger!

Cheers

Simon

[Serpico]

It may have been a leaky roof (there was more than one), but it doesn't have to be hot for condensation to form on cold glass and start dripping.
The reds I did on the comp wall were good (with the exception of one in the middle), my issue is that in two visits I found myself repeating the same few problems (~8) because there was little else of interest.
As for IanP's 'short boy in reach shocker' I seem to remember the one problem he recommended he couldn't make the reach on - the king of Lank cut down to size...
From other users comments it seems I've not caught the wall at it's best, so when is the next set?

[Adam Lincoln]

Maybe get a variety of setters for the V6 and above problems. Or get the setters to be more imaginative. I thought Gaz's set was good this time. But yes, more problems on the comp wall please. More stuff around the V8 and above mark too. 

[maybe_si]

The next few things to be set are the Green (V7-8) and Yellow (World Cup) circuits which Harry Pennells is setting this Wednesday, James Garden is in on Monday 15th to reset the comp wall and I am setting the White (V4-5) on Wednesday 17th, hopefully this should keep you all busy for a little while at least! 

Cheers

Simon

[tomtom]

It may have been a leaky roof (there was more than one), but it doesn't have to be hot for condensation to form on cold glass and start dripping.
The reds I did on the comp wall were good (with the exception of one in the middle), my issue is that in two visits I found myself repeating the same few problems (~8) because there was little else of interest.
As for IanP's 'short boy in reach shocker' I seem to remember the one problem he recommended he couldn't make the reach on - the king of Lank cut down to size...
From other users comments it seems I've not caught the wall at it's best, so when is the next set?

I've never been particularly insipred when I've been down there before (twice..)  I like the compwall area - but the darker bits around the sides just seemed to have nothing great there... Its all about the problems and how they are set and I'm certainly not writing the place off... like Serpico said maybe I've just not caught it at its best...

[Johnny Brown]

Yellow (World Cup) circuits which Harry Pennells is setting this Wednesday,

Wowzers! A world cup circuit based on kudos eliminates? This will be worth travelling for!

[Adam Lincoln]

Yellow (World Cup) circuits which Harry Pennells is setting this Wednesday,

Wowzers! A world cup circuit based on kudos eliminates? This will be worth travelling for!

 

[rginns]

I went over there last week and in spite of the horrendous traffic on the way eventually found the place. On first impressions, the problems there are seem ok, although the competition wall seems a little blank for the space it takes up.
I found the whites good, although there could have been more of them.
Yes, it was hot, but not too bad.
As another wall in the area it's great for variety, but wouldn't make me switch entirely from Broughton to be honest.

[maybe_si]

Glad you like the whites, but as for more of them?? Where would they go? every bit of wall has a white problem and any more of them would just be far too confusing as they would be far too close to eachother!

[maybe_si]

Oh yeah, Rupert, I added those footholds to the beastmaker this afternoon.

simon

[mrjonathanr]

Hi Si if you're having problems set tomorrow will this affect access during the day ?(ie will it be open at 12 as usual?) I looked on the website but could not see anything.
Thanks
Jon

[highrepute]

Hi Si if you're having problems set tomorrow will this affect access during the day ?(ie will it be open at 12 as usual?) I looked on the website but could not see anything.
Thanks
Jon

I don't think this will be a problem, never has been before.

[maybe_si]

We will be open as usual, we start setting at the horrendously early time of 08:00 and usually aim to have almost finished by opening time at 12:00, however often the faint sound of drilling can be heard till 2ish but this does not affect 99% of the centre, see you tomorrow

Simon

[mrjonathanr]

Cool thanks.

[Serpico]

Had a very good session last night - much better set this time.