[tom]

how hard is brad pit? when i first started climbing it seemed an incredibly hard almost, impossible problem. so i was surprised to see the video on this site of adam long crusing up it without breaking sweat and that it only gets v9 now compaired to b13 or what ever it says in my peak guide. having dragged myself up a few v8's in the peak and wales i decided to give it a bash  and to no great surpise got nowhere near. so how many of you guys have actually done it, is there some nack to it do you have to be brutally strong or very flexable or is it just your "run of the mill" v9?  
( in case everyone recons it's piss i'm claiming poor conditions)

[Bubba]

I suspect Adam may have done it a few time before which is why he makes it look so easy  :wink:

Apart from that, god knows - I had a go when I used to be "strong" shortly after Jason did it, and couldn't get anywhere, so I don't even bother these days.  

Sit down start remains one of the Peak's hardest unrepeated problems.

[dave]

i've had a couple of half-assed goes, got nowhere, not so much as a move to my name. maybe if i got anywhere with it they wouldn't be so half-assed. hope to have a better crack this winter.

[Bubba]

Talking out my arse here, as it's out of my league, but surely any 3 or 4 move long V9 is going to be pretty powerful. Also, that grade has settled down over time and I suspect that egos have been at play, so dunno if it's a run of the mill V9 or one that's hard for the grade.

The first moves look much easier if you're flexible enough to use the heelhook well. The original dyno method still doesn't seem to get done that much.

Still, I guess it's been flashed now, so it can't be that hard, can it  :roll:

[dave]

i could get the heel on, cun't do fuck-all with it, and i'm generally quids-in if i can get t'heel on,

[Bubba]

I guess being tall prolly doesn't help on that move? Are you flexible?

[dave]

fairly flexible

[Bubba]

Talking of that sit-start Willenburg fella - was looking at his arete at Eagle Tor the other day - what a great looking problem. Is it still unrepeated?

[dave]

http://ukbouldering.com/board/viewtopic.php?p=9694

omega said his kiwi mate did it, V11?

[Bubba]

Said on me very own forum as well    

So, wonder just how hard it is... fine line anyway. What's that little diamond shaped aretey thang starting from a ledge just down to the left? I'm sure it's in the old guide but I don't have a copy.

[Doylo]

Its a hard v9, it could easily be 7c+ in font.  Pretty technical aswell as powerful. Unfortunately its a must do problem!

[Doylo]

Kiwi Seb must be one of the tallest men to ever grace British gritstone. When he did the Keel he had his hand in the finishing pocket and his feet were still on the back wall!

[dave]

I hate him.

[Johnny Brown]

wiv flexi hips and good conditions the 'pit hardly feels worth 7c. The key is to use the side of yer heel and then cam yer knee down n out - which pulls yer hips up and in. as soon as you flag the sidepull feels like a good hold- the bottom is the crux.

me as erd that long fella can do it a lot easier now than on that vid - missin holds n stuff....

[Stu Littlefair]

The lord knows I'm not a flexible man, but Brad Pit has always struck me as absolutely desperate for 7c. It is however, one of the most satisfying pieces of climbing known to mankind and should be repeated ASAP by everyone.

I have a model of it in the woody at Exeter, if anyone wants to train for it?

[Omega]

Kiwi Seb must be one of the tallest men to ever grace British gritstone. When he did the Keel he had his hand in the finishing pocket and his feet were still on the back wall!

indeed, a very tall man.  but strong as well which makes him lethal on the grit.  from memory he thought No Mercy (at Eagle Tor) was about v9 for him.  but then he thought jason's undercling was v6.

as for the pitt, i thought it warranted 7c+.  harder than, say, spring voyage or famous grouse and about as hard as the terrace (says me but then what would i know)

[account_inactive]

A strong NZ man like your bad self should be able to grade more than flour
Seb is more than a monster, I'm currently applying for him to be banned from the peak for being so freakin strong.
Sorry I didn't reply to your texts, my phone is on the blink which should match my shoulder cause that's also fucked.  So no trip to the peaks I'm afraid.  The physio said that I could still campus(!) and traverse.
Speak soon :hyper:

[Omega]

so you did get my texts!  slacker

sorry to hear that the shoulder is slammed.

but have no fear, seb has returned to the land of the long white cloud.  something about sheffield being cold and grim?!?

[Bonjoy]

Saw big-dog Seb do Do No Mercy, made it look piss. However he can't do Brad's Arete to save his life!! How's that work then. He was also trying a hard dyno arete proj down the slope from Rollin' Pat and getting close-ish, he has since returned to NZ, any tall takers for said dyno?
  I agree with Stu, Brad Pitt seems a pretty staunch V9 to me, but again easier for the tall and flexible.

[dave]

what dyno is this, boy?

[Scouse D]

Sounds a bit like that shroom dyno Dave-if so it is very much not a project!

[dave]

aye, but that shroom thing int really down the slope from RP, more along the hill from what remember. can't place the boulder he's on about...

[Bonjoy]

It's a project on the big bit with Pat Kings route on it. In the middle of the face is a scoop with a hairline crack in it. Seb was trying to climb the left arete of said scoop, with ok rugosite layaway and big slap for break.

[dave]

ooohhhh, i getcha.