Basic Ben, Basic Jez (as exampels of board problems) could both be overcome using drop knees, the fact of the matter is that in both of these cases it negates the need to be able to lock like a monster. Miss it out, don't improve on the lock.Now locking certainly isn't a bad engram, nor irrelevant in the outside world.
QuoteBasic Ben, Basic Jez (as exampels of board problems) could both be overcome using drop knees, the fact of the matter is that in both of these cases it negates the need to be able to lock like a monster. Miss it out, don't improve on the lock.Now locking certainly isn't a bad engram, nor irrelevant in the outside world.I disagree entirely. Lets say Basic Jez is at the limit for two climbers, with a drop knee and beyond the limit without. Lets also say their is a problem exactly the same outdoor. Climber A tries it with a dropknee climber B tries without? Who is more likely to succeed on the prob outside? And is climber A not also going to train his lock by just scraping up the prob with the drop knee more than B does failling without?
Common sense: There's a difference between doing a couple of problems in a prescriptive way that specifically work a weakness, and deliberatley climbing in a shit fashion longterm.
For similar reasons I think training with a weight belt is a bad idea. As I see it when you are training you are trying your hardest (or thereabouts) and therefore sending a signal to the brain vis-à-vis development proportional to the effort put in (or thereabouts). Given this assumption you are not increasing ‘the signal’ by adding weight! Instead of trying 100% on a 6c move without weight you are trying 100% on a 6b move with weight. So no implicit gain in signal/improvement but a fair risk of developing bad engrams. Again please put me right if I’m missing something.PS – Apologies for this being a generalised and slightly off-topic rant.