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C3PO Roaches (Read 3423 times)

yorkshirewarcry

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C3PO Roaches
December 14, 2009, 06:39:58 pm
A group of us were up at the Boba Fett slab the other day and we all climbed a problem, but there is some confusion as to exactly what problem we did.  I know there is a problem up the right arete with a nasty and very wet landing, then working left Boba Fett, C3PO and a problem up the left "rib" of the boulder.

We were stepping on (tricky!) with left foot outside edge on s smeary "ripple", then balancing up so right foot ended up on the obvious good foothold just left of the centre of the boulder, then going direct to finish just left of the highest point of the boulder, with left hand in a large-ish slopey dish thing, then reaching over the back of the boulder to pull up and finish.  Before the slopey dish there was some pebble pulling and two tiny shallow pockets just as the angle of the boulder eases right off, and a good pebble out left.  Poor smears for feet all the way, apart from the goof Right foothold at the start.

Was it C3PO we did or something else?  Anyone?  Any pics/vids to clear it up...?

Good problem whatever it was....

r-man

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#1 Re: C3PO Roaches
December 14, 2009, 07:10:54 pm
Whatever you did, since pebble/s have come off, C3P0 and the one just left are about the same grade these days (7a-ish).

nai

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#2 Re: C3PO Roaches
December 14, 2009, 08:11:30 pm
The sample chapter for the new Roaches guide covers the lower tier, pic of teh slab and problem descriptions on page 5

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmcNews/media/u_content/File/guidebooks/sample_chapters/Roaches%202009%20sample%20chapter%20-%20lower%20tier.pdf

dave

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#3 Re: C3PO Roaches
December 14, 2009, 08:15:26 pm
then balancing up so right foot ended up on the obvious good foothold just left of the centre of the boulder

I recon if you're on that big foothold you're on the central line, C3PO.
« Last Edit: December 14, 2009, 08:26:41 pm by dave »

Sloper

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#4 Re: C3PO Roaches
December 14, 2009, 09:02:32 pm
I reckon you're too tall to take anymore than 4+.

Ps a few beers over the festive season, captain beaky may be able to swing a pink slip

yorkshirewarcry

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#5 Re: C3PO Roaches
December 14, 2009, 09:38:36 pm
The sample chapter for the new Roaches guide covers the lower tier, pic of teh slab and problem descriptions on page 5

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmcNews/media/u_content/File/guidebooks/sample_chapters/Roaches%202009%20sample%20chapter%20-%20lower%20tier.pdf

I reckon looking at the pic in the sample, it was definitely C3PO we did.  Nice to know that we ticked a classic.  Boba next....

yorkshirewarcry

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#6 Re: C3PO Roaches
December 14, 2009, 09:41:22 pm
I reckon you're too tall to take anymore than 4+.

Ps a few beers over the festive season, captain beaky may be able to swing a pink slip

The conditions were so good it actually felt about 4+  :P

A few festive beers sounds like a grand idea.  I wonder if we could convince the sharpnosed one to go bouldering before heading pubwards  :-\

nai

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#7 Re: C3PO Roaches
December 14, 2009, 09:49:32 pm
Boba next....

Yep, for me too.  How wet was the ground?  And did you look at Tierdrop?

yorkshirewarcry

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#8 Re: C3PO Roaches
December 14, 2009, 09:53:05 pm
The grounds was wet enough for my pad to still be drying out now, but not exactly a full-blown puddle.  The wetness was mostly underneath the left hand problem, and hence the C3PO + Boba landings were fine really.

Didn't make it to Ramshaw as we ended up at Newstones/Baldstones for most of the day.  The rock there was in amazing nick given all the wet weather, and most things were dry and realtively clean.

 

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