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New Stanage Problem? (Read 2499 times)

r-man

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New Stanage Problem?
December 04, 2009, 06:17:20 pm
I did what I think may be a new problem, but perhaps someone knows better. It took a lot of cleaning, and I removed grass and a large rock from the topout, so I'm guessing it hasn't been done before. Anyway...

Ten Shadows to Midnight, 7B
In the cave above the Unfamiliar block, sitstart the left arete and make a hard move to the lip out right. Swing along this and rock onto the green slab.

Quite a funky problem that stays sheltered during showers. It's a tale of two halves, the first is grovelling in a cave, the second is highballing above a gully. Pretty safe with two or three pads though.
_

And on another note, does anyone have beta for Hippocampus? I had a brief play and the most likely solution seemed to be one big chuck from the low break to the good high dish. Anyone?

Bonjoy

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#1 Re: New Stanage Problem?
December 07, 2009, 08:21:21 am
Haven’t tried it but Iain was explaining the beta on Hippocampus to me on Sat. Can’t recall the whole thing but it involved slapping for a high dish with LH then bouling over for the top with RH.

r-man

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#2 Re: New Stanage Problem?
December 07, 2009, 01:21:55 pm
Interesting. If that's the same hold I think it is, it sounds like quite a big move, but perhaps I missed something in the evening gloom. I shall have another look.

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#3 Re: New Stanage Problem?
December 07, 2009, 02:19:02 pm
The move to the dish was from a poor looking edge which didn't appear to have been used/cleaned recently. No idea if that helps any...

r-man

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#4 Re: New Stanage Problem?
December 07, 2009, 02:40:03 pm
It might help. I gave this a bit of a brush on a wet day last week, but I don't remember cleaning any poor rh edges. I will look harder.

 

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