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Home and away fixtures for the winter season (Read 25292 times)

Bubba

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Home and away fixtures for the winter season
October 07, 2002, 11:53:17 pm
posted by: Simon Panton date: 2002-09-30 time: 22:53:21 reply  x
  Well, it`s been the driest September for 400 years (or there abouts) and the temperature is dropping. I can`t help but think about some away fixtures for the coming season. How about you peaky boys put together your best team and meet up with the N Wales Massiv` at a venue of your choice in the Pennines. We will of course return the favour by showing you around some of our hot `SHIT` crags on a return fixture. An over night stay and some rude party action would be a necessary sideshow to the daytime festivities.
I`ve got some star players on my team (Davies, Katz, Nodder, Robins, fatty Foster to name but a few) who have all excelled both in the bar and on the crag: I hope you can match us, sloper for sloper and pint for pint.

Cheers, Simon.


 
postId: 690 posted by: Lucian date: 2002-10-01 time: 07:51:57 reply  x
  In reply to post 689:
Sounds like a challenge from the N.Wales massive,
wat u reckon phat(or even fat eh Jim!) boulderers?
jim definitely for some bar work, mike on the chemistry set
me on being a fat punter trying to climb!!
Yeah, will tink on Simone for an appropriate venue.
like i said before taking a lot of this autumn off so hopefully will drop
below obese level before it gets too good


 
postId: 691 posted by: mike date: 2002-10-01 time: 09:13:47 reply  x
  In reply to post 689:

Now this sounds like fun! But....errrrmmmm can I just take the photos?
With my current bumbling level of incompetence (failing on Trick Arete
again!) I certainly won`t be matching your crew on the slopers, but I
reckon I`ll get back into my stride in the bar :)

Yeah, it`s got to be done, sounds like a right laff, and it`d force us to
get our lazy butts out of the Peak for a Wales visit.

Luce, how about Earl & Caley, or shall we just stick to the Peak?

Come on then, who else is up for this??


 
postId: 696 posted by: James date: 2002-10-01 time: 18:27:11 reply  x
  In reply to post 691:
I am up for that.
The venue depends on the duration. If it is for 1 day at a time then
Yorkshire is as good as anywhere but if it is for more than a day then the
Peak, I dont think my precious tips will hold up to more than a day on
that painful Yorkshire grit. How about Eagle tor / Stanton moor /
Cratcliffe / RHS / Rowtor etc. for starters?
It would be good to get shown around wales by the guys in the know.
What do you think?

Cheers

James


 
postId: 697 posted by: Simon Panton date: 2002-10-01 time: 22:41:53 reply  x
  In reply to post 691:
Don`t worry Mike (or Lucien) I`m not exactly cranking at the moment. I
seem to spend all my time drawing crags, rather than actually climbing
these days.
Nonetheless, like all obsessive climbers I yearn for a return to past
levels of fitness and power. I know I can get there again, as long as I
don`t get too drunk the night before and the wind is blowing in the right
direction and I chose something that suits me or something that I have
previously wired...etc.
I did actually climb at a quite hard level (for me, that is) back in the
spring. Certainly as hard as I managed when I was in my 20s. So maybe
there is hope for us ageing die hard fans.

Anyway, let`s sort out some dates soon. I guess a weekend some time in
October would be good? (I`m expecting my wife to give birth to another
baby on the 5th of November!)


 
postId: 698 posted by: mike date: 2002-10-02 time: 09:52:55 reply  x
  In reply to post 697:

Well I`ve got about minus 2 stone to go in order to get back to the power
of my youth, but hey, I can still pretend!!!

As long as we`re at a venue with easy stuff too then I`m quite happy to
document proceedings, hang out, and do easier problems - October is
getting booked up already but maybe the last two weekends are free? I`ll
have to check with my good lady who actually uses her diary from time to
time and usually reminds me of that crucial social occasion that I agreed
to six months ago just as I`m chucking my pad in the back of the car....

I guess you`ll be pretty busy throughout November then with the arrival of
the new Pantonlet, so if not before, then I guess we`re talking Dec/Jan?


 
postId: 700 posted by: jim date: 2002-10-02 time: 10:22:37 reply  x
  In reply to post 690:
It appears Mikey is disappointed with my `rising above Lucian`s cheap
attempt at humour / abuse`, so:

Right, you short arsed dumpy fart arsing botter, I`ll booze you under the
ground, let alone the f**king table! You want to get underground with me
and then we`ll see who`s fat, I`m f**king nails pal, watch it
Cockers.......


 
postId: 701 posted by: Lucian date: 2002-10-02 time: 10:43:41 reply  x
  In reply to post 700:
watch it psycho mud wrestling bum boy or youll be playing michael Bolton
records this weekend......
are you going to get speleological on my sorry ass Jim???????
well that confirms jon`s theory then
arf arf, i thank you


 
postId: 702 posted by: mike date: 2002-10-02 time: 11:03:41 reply  x
  In reply to post 701:

Go Pie Tosser.....or is it Pie EATER????

You can run, but you can`t hide.


 
postId: 703 posted by: Lucian date: 2002-10-02 time: 11:16:00 reply  x
  In reply to post 702:
get some work done .
went out yesterday, Burbage south , it was very good.
still battling with waht to play dis weekend?argh, still least did some
disc spinning.


 
postId: 704 posted by: mike date: 2002-10-02 time: 11:25:07 reply  x
  In reply to post 703:

How about you doing some work you skiving get - what u do at B South?

I`m playing a little bit of deep house, some detroit techno, some more
pumping stuff and a few other odds and ends. Nothing that different, four
to the floor - but someones got to do it - Luke will be playing similar I
reckon, might get him to go on last so I can enjoy the evening properly
without having to stay to compus until the last hour.


 
postId: 705 posted by: Lucian date: 2002-10-02 time: 11:34:29 reply  x
  In reply to post 704:
Yeah cool,( Jim do you want to go on first?call us if u want to dig in
collection)
was trying Trellis(think thats it name, Si you had photo in mag few weeks
back, Ben Spoon on it???) in entrance to first quarry, dont want to be a
poof but was getting very high and scared so left it til next time with
extra mattage and spotter, bit of a hole which i fell in to.
Trying stuff way further up, a welford rib thing which was desp. as the
air temp went up, sluuurrrpiing off the holds. theres some excellent
cross range problems up there, landings are not great but ok with
mat.Should do a small topo or someting?


 
postId: 706 posted by: jim date: 2002-10-02 time: 11:46:36 reply  x
  In reply to post 705:
Nice one, yep- I`ll go on first and get the floor shaking- could do with a
few of your classics Luce, so I`ll come and have a dig....


 
postId: 709 posted by: mike date: 2002-10-03 time: 07:13:03 reply  x
  In reply to post 705:

Luce, if you`re up there again, you could work out a topo....get the pics
to start with..


 
postId: 710 posted by: jim date: 2002-10-03 time: 07:53:21 reply  x
  In reply to post 709:
I`ve never climbed on the Burbage quarries or the edge above the boulders.
Anything good down here????


 
postId: 711 posted by: dave date: 2002-10-03 time: 09:31:19 reply  x
  In reply to post 705:
Yo Luce, i`ve eyeballed that Trellis thing a while back, but never got on
it. Looks to be OK till a final, presumably BIG move off a crimp for the
sloping top. But whats it actually like, and is what i think a fair
assesment? its supposed to be 7c aint it...... any beyda you could give
would be the dogs. cheerz.


 
postId: 722 posted by: Lucian date: 2002-10-03 time: 17:43:56 reply  x
  In reply to post 711:
yeah, will try next week or possibly wkend depending on state im in
Mike.loads to go at Jim and way less trashed than the path side stuff,
seems hardly any 1 goes up there. loads of aretes, walls. some high some
tiny, didnt even go that far, seemed to carry on from where i got to.
Been to eagle today, bit slimey and ive not been resting enough for an
old man like myself, failed on Rollin Pat, eeeekkkk my fingers
Yeah no worries dave but if you claim an onsight well all know!!!!!!!
Diffucult move for the short to get that crimp, first two moves are easy,
undercut /sidepull r.arete wir r. hand(the only non green bit!!!!)highest
most side pull wit left. Now if youre tall you can just stand up I think
(possibly???) i had to outside r foot just under small lip of roof and
slap left toe on high on left wall to vague brushed edge and egyptian
like a mother and strecth for edge wit r. hand, there are two edges both
positive.You are now quite high and scared, the hold you go for is good.
i marked it but poss. been rained off.
go up and have a look cos its not where u think it is. Only trouble is u
have to do that mingus pegged out crack high ball to the left or the
gruesome gully to the left of that.


 
postId: 724 posted by: dave date: 2002-10-04 time: 08:25:03 reply  x
  In reply to post 722:
Cheers for the beyda. Will deffo have a pop next time, might help me
psyche up for nosferatu - eeeek.

when you say "stuff way further up" do you mean the stuff further on from
Roof Route/Stampede? This area always looks good from the boulders but i
never got round to going up there. I take it this is where jerry`s Intense
is?!? There must be loads of potential, since the parthian shot area is
really only about half way along the crag!


 
postId: 726 posted by: mark date: 2002-10-04 time: 11:04:16 reply  x
  In reply to post 724:
There are several hard problems at that end that are very good. Intense is
just absurd but there`s also John Welford`s rib, the start to Little
Rascal and a couple of fantastic highball aretes, including the double
arete right of the impossible groove. I haven`t managed any of the above
(yet!) but there are also a few decent easier problems. Worth a visit,
especially if it`s sunny as the crag is in shade and conditions stay good
when other places are too greasy.


 
postId: 732 posted by: dave date: 2002-10-07 time: 07:58:08 reply  x
  In reply to post 722:
Trellis report: Went to have a look at this yesterday and ended up with a
big group trying it, in the end about 4/5 people did it. We had about 8
mats. Unfortunetly i didn`t do it, i think i was hitting the wrong bit of
the top. I think the concensus was that V9 was taking the piss and so
grades of V5-7 were mentioned. It seems like a pretty good problem.

Useful beta: the easiest way of getting to crux holds is to get a foot-
cam in over right - nice.


 
postId: 733 posted by: Lucian date: 2002-10-07 time: 08:09:53 reply  x
  In reply to post 732:
Cool, good to hear. think the large amount of mats was a very good
idea!!!!think V8 was mooted before, what height were the people trying it?
just wondered how any shortys got on!
had a resting weekend cos me old joints were aching from to much last
week.out to day to give em a test run.


 
postId: 735 posted by: dave date: 2002-10-07 time: 08:27:45 reply  x
  In reply to post 733:
Yeah, the more mats the better (its a long fall from the top - fun) but in
the end i was falling off more-or-less unspotted and it was OK. We could
have done it with less cos some were filling-up that hole, which was
needless cos you don`t fall anywhere near it!

As for the height thing, everyone was about normal height, in fact the
only tallies (me and steve) were just about the only ones who didn`t do
it! I think if that top move was at ground level it would be hard 6a or
6b, probably no harder than the john dunne slap, only your feet are 15ft
up.


 
postId: 745 posted by: mike date: 2002-10-07 time: 14:06:49 reply  x
  In reply to post 697:

Simon,

This is looking like the new year may be a better bet....booked up pretty
much for Oct, with a Font trip thrown in (wayhayyy!!!) and you`re
presumably going to be out of action for most of Nov with your sprog. So,
December, or in the crispy cold new year, which may signal the best
conditions anyway, and give us all a chance to get a bit of fitness back...

Whadya reckon?

mike

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Perhaps it was just a wishful notion (considering how much work I've still got to do on this damn book), but I really need a grit hit, and I need it soon. Can any of you boys make a day mid week? I've been out checking on the Llandudno limestone with my old sparring partners Chris Davies and Gavin Foster today, and we talked about a Pennine trip over the next week or so. I guess I'll just keep an eye on the weather patterns and try and get cover at work.
We would particularly like to see some new crags; Stanton Moor perhaps or a tour of one of your crag Xs.
Cheers, Simon.

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Hi Simon,
I am free on all Thursdays from 12:40 pm.  I also break up on the 18th October for 1 week so you could come down for a few days if you wished.  I know Stanton realy well and would happily show you around.  How is the guide coming along?
Cheers

James

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Quote from: "Pantontino"
Can any of you boys make a day mid week? I've been out checking on the Llandudno limestone with my old sparring partners Chris Davies and Gavin Foster today, and we talked about a Pennine trip over the next week or so. I guess I'll just keep an eye on the weather patterns and try and get cover at work.
We would particularly like to see some new crags; Stanton Moor perhaps or a tour of one of your crag Xs.
Cheers, Simon.


Yeah, can make midweek but need about a weeks' notice, so not this week coming - perhaps the week after, or the one after that? It'd be good if the others can get out too, but I'll have to check when Luce is not working the ropes... weather's blobbed in today, but forcast is better I think. We can put you up, etc if needs be.

james

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Hi mike and Simon.
It would be awesome if we could meet up next week (20th onwards)  I will need a few days notice so I can plan the bus journey unless you can pick me up.
Cheers
 
James

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Afternoon all,
It looks like wednesday will be the best week day.  Looked on weather.co.uk and it is the only dry day until the weekend :( .  Maybe it will change? Have to wait and see.
What do you all think.
Cheers

James

Bubba

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It's all looking a bit crap, isn't it? Check the BBC 5 day forcast.

Wednesday looks better but it'll still be raining. Seems daft to arrange a meet up if the weather's looking iffy, especially if folks are coming across from North Wales. Best do it another week when the weather is more settled I reckon.

dave

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I'd take those bbc 5-day forecasts with a pinch of salt - they are very pessimistic and the symbols are a bit misleading. If you planned your climbing round them you would never go outside!

I remember on several occisions where i've looked at the BBC 5-day for sheffield and it was black-clouds with rain everyday, and for the same period on metoffice.gov.uk it was sunny everyday. And in the event the weather was nice - strange given the BBC gets their data from the met office.

Apparently its cos the bbc get the raw data from the metoffice and just use it straight off, whereas the metoffice take the same data and anyalise it more, so get a better forecast.

Bubba

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Never knew all that...still the meto forcast isn't looking all that much better, 3 days with rain and two with cloud....Thursday is looking best, but I still reckon another week might be the best option - be nice to have a few days of settled before a meetup, but maybe that's asking too much in October  :(

james

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Hi Mike,
Thing is, if we have it another week then I wont be able to come because I am at school :cry: .  The only time I can make is Thursday afternoons.  
Cheers

James

P.S. Have you heard anything about the OF atempt?

Bubba

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Allo!

Your skin recovered?

I'll see what Pantontino thinks - we can always make it a Thursday anyway.

I saw you're comments on the bouldering mat thread - kick that hugh jars!
But, I'm going to put up a wanted/for sale forum here too, so whack it in there too.

There was a thread on rt earlier and apparantly they turn up as the weather was looking too iffy.

Bubba

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Hi Mike,  
  My skin is OK now.  It was a bit sore on Sunday but I went out today and it was fine.
 
  I just checked the met office.  Tue - dry: Wed  -mostly dry: Thur - Dry.  See what Simon thinks.

  Hugh Jars :lol: He mad a right prat of himself.  I am a bit dissapointed that he has not replyed.  I was looking forward to his response.

  Yeah I read that about OF.  It was probably for the best.  Conditions can only get better :? .  I got woried this morning as there was a thread on rocktalk about a Chopper and Ambulance rushing to the Roaches on Sunday afternoon, I had visions of Adam and friends in some A & E department cursing their decisions, but all is OK.

  What is your name on rocktalk BTW :?:
 
Cheers

James

Bubba

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Yeah, I thought that about the chopper, etc.... Last thing you need to be worrying about on a gnarly headpoint is whether it's going to start raining or not.

I used to be the brendonTendon but don't really bother these days. Too much crap to wade through.

Yeah, see what the others think - Simon??

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Evening gentlemen.
I've got Thursday and Friday off, but Friday might be difficult transport wise. I guess Thursday is the day then.
I'm not sure who'll be coming from my end (probably Davies, Katz, Foster - or maybe just me!) yet. and I know the weather doesn't look great, but I'm sure we'll find something to do.
I reckon we should make an arrangement to meet in a cafe in the Peak, and take it from there.
Speak soon, cheers, Simon.

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Thursday it is then - I'll try to get the day booked off provisionally. If I wake up and it's caning it down then there's probably no point, unless you're coming over whatever the weather?

It must be said, the forcast is looking shite  :(

So, come on Peaky people.....

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Great,  Where shall we go?  Stanton moor is the obvious choice.  If there is a breeze then it should dry quickly.  What is the crag X like?  Does it dry quick?.

I think it is time to prepare the troops :lol: .  Who shal we call?  

Cheers

James

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Not a huge amount to go at on S.Moor though, is there? Or am I wrong?? The cragx would be good but naah, will dry very slowly and it'd be horrible there in the wet. Needs a few dry days really.

There's Cratcliffe/Eagle/Rowtor but they might all be a bit wet too. Which leaves the usual suspects of burbage/plantation/etc which isn't original, but will dry fast. Or, we could all go to Yorkshire, but the weather won't be any better up there I guess.

Lots of stuff at the left end of Burbage S. which will be new to most of us.

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Hi Bubba,
There is a fair bit to go at on the moor.  About 20 problems and numerous projects.  If it is dry it would ocupy us for a morning at least.  The only trouble is it is out of the way of the major crags ie Burbage, Stanage and so if Cratcliff etc are wet then it takes up time driving to the rest of the Peak.  See wat the Welsh boys want to do.  
  Have you contacted anyone yet.  What about Justin?
Cheers

James

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fatboyslimfast is up for it - think choice of venue will be well restricted by the weather anyway.

Well, anyone is welcome, so anyone reading this come along too. Dunno about assembling a strong team though - thought about ringing Mr Welford/Moon, but most people work days and need more notice.

no bother anyway, I'm just keen to get some good pics/vid and have a bumble about  :)

dave

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You aught top go to Roche Abbey, as its always dry.

Bubba

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The Wales crew are after a grit-fix I think - what's the situation with Roche? I thought climbing was discouraged there these days?

james

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The more the merier.  I think it would be good to ring Ben and John.  They might not know that this is hapening.   I would give them a call and let them know.  They might be able to get time off, you never know.
 
I dont know about you but I usualy climb alot harder in the presence of V.good people.  I cant wait :lol: .

I just hope it stays dry.  I feel a prayer coming on  :D
Cheers

James

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I usually give up and skulk away.....naah, doesn't bother me these days, I just get on with my own thing.

Ha! If you pray then......you'll be......One step closer to Jesus  :!:  :D

dave

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Quote from: "Bubba"
what's the situation with Roche? I thought climbing was discouraged there these days?


Its is "officially", but then you're not that likely to bump into the Earl of Scarborough knocking about under the main bouldering buttress.  Apparently he's only concerned about his liability if anyone falls off and hurts themsleves, but: A. i don't think he is liable anyway, and B. its only ever really roproping and bouldering that happens there, so injuries are unlikely.

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Bubba,
Do you want me to start asking people?  I could speak to afew people on rocktalk about it and ring a few people up.  Have you any idea about what time they will be ariving?
Cheers

James

 

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