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For a Few Beagles More Topout (Read 1749 times)

yorkshirewarcry

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For a Few Beagles More Topout
October 25, 2009, 05:25:49 pm
After some beta on  how to top this one out...I'm losing ALOT of skin trying this....

From matched on the good break, feet on reasonable smears I am locking off with my left arm and reaching for a hideous sloper with my RH.  What next?  Is it justy the hideous slopeyness that it appears or is there some kind of trick.  Maybe it needs to be a bit colder?

Good problem, but it'll be much easier unless I do it soon, as there'll soon me a huge jug on the top comprising mostly of my skin!!!

Sloper

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#1 Re: For a Few Beagles More Topout
October 25, 2009, 06:30:33 pm
I lose track which one is this again?

yorkshirewarcry

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#2 Re: For a Few Beagles More Topout
October 25, 2009, 11:04:05 pm
The one on the far side of the boulder as you approach along the path from Curbar gap.  There is a 7a-ish thing to the right and a 6b groove problem.  I think the problem to the left is the font 5 thing. 

Any clearer?

Beta me up. 

Johnny Brown

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#3 Re: For a Few Beagles More Topout
October 26, 2009, 08:35:23 am
Go big with the right hand, and keep going. No more to it than that.

Andy B

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#4 Re: For a Few Beagles More Topout
November 01, 2009, 06:27:12 pm
For those without long arms, use the poorer break up and left, and rock over to the flat part of the left side of the fluting (the same bit as those who can reach it from the good break are going to). Going round the top first, to check out what you are reaching for will help. The second break is much poorer than the first, but is fine is reasonable conditions.

 

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