Quote from: willackers on March 03, 2011, 04:35:53 pmQuote from: Adam Lincoln on March 03, 2011, 02:22:17 pmOk, as i am doing the Kilnsey section of the new guide, what ever happened over the first ascent of the right hand line? I was told Malcolm got the FA? So the boulder problem start was joint FA of Nik and Andy, and the full route FA Malcolm? I seem to remember Malc doing the boulder problem 2nd or 3rd go then flashing the rest of the routeCool, cheers Will. Accidental first ascent it is then. Can you comment on what Nik said about the 'going left'?
Quote from: Adam Lincoln on March 03, 2011, 02:22:17 pmOk, as i am doing the Kilnsey section of the new guide, what ever happened over the first ascent of the right hand line? I was told Malcolm got the FA? So the boulder problem start was joint FA of Nik and Andy, and the full route FA Malcolm? I seem to remember Malc doing the boulder problem 2nd or 3rd go then flashing the rest of the route
Ok, as i am doing the Kilnsey section of the new guide, what ever happened over the first ascent of the right hand line? I was told Malcolm got the FA? So the boulder problem start was joint FA of Nik and Andy, and the full route FA Malcolm?
Me, Malc and Sutton came in from the left and traversed right to join Massala Martyr, we didn't come in from the right,
I just watched the video of Andy and Nik on Vimeo and that doesn't help much. All I know is that we were trying something that started on the LHS and traversed right along the good holds to join the upper part of the route. It was quite a dynamic move.
That makes it clear as muddy mud
What we need is a picture of the crag with some squiggly lines on.
two of the better boulder problems on Yorkshire limestone.
This is basically joint enterprise, but with a different last move to the way Andy climbed it.
First there was Rob Gawthorpe with Mistaken identity.Then came Dave Sarkar with some bolts and a less diagonal vision.Nik Sellars stepped in to climb this as Massala martyr.Ian Vickers pulled off a hold up high but didn't re-climb it.I did the direct as a boulder problem called Joint enterprise (Font 7b+ ish), which Nik also did shortly afterwards.Malc climbed MM by coming in from the right (where JE starts), he didn't actually do JE.I pulled the dice hold off the top wall of MM.Stu Littlefair reclimbed MM without the dice hold (now up to soft 8b).I linked JE into the new top sequence of MM to give A Smarter martyr (also soft 8b).So Malc is a beast but didn't actually climb the direct or the route as it stands.The routes on this section of rock will become better defined when Mistaken identity direct finish is climbed. Clear now?
Quote from: Stu Littlefair on March 06, 2011, 11:50:26 pmThis is basically joint enterprise, but with a different last move to the way Andy climbed it. So more importantly then, who gets the FA of SM in the guide then!? Shall we let Malc and Andy toss for it? Or I personally am not arsed either way.
Will, you have a mind like a bowl of custard. That day malc started to the right of where we started, did some nasty static work, then reached left into the jugs at the break. This is basically joint enterprise, but with a different last move to the way Andy climbed it. I/We did the standard MM start, but that involves jumping, which rules malc out...
I don't quite fathom a guidebook author who isn't arsed about the detail, nor can answer a simple question.