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Classic slab problems - Peak District (Read 11209 times)

Tris

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Classic slab problems - Peak District
September 30, 2009, 09:12:12 am
As per title, what are the best slab problems in the Peak? Ideally V3+

lagerstarfish

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#1 Re: Classic slab problems - Peak District
September 30, 2009, 10:12:51 am
None of the decent problems have V grades

 ;)

yorkshirewarcry

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#2 Re: Classic slab problems - Peak District
September 30, 2009, 10:15:24 am
Ones I have enjoyed:

- Crescent Slab to the right of Crescent Arete - nice, tenuous pebble pulling.
- Daydreamer on Counts Buttress
- Shock Horror Slab
- The 7a slab thing to the right of Ben's Wall @ Robin Hood's Stride
- Satin (not sure it's strictly a slab but fun, and worth throwing in to the mix)

And at the Roaches, I thought C3PO was great.  The problems to the right and left also looked good, but haven't reid them yet.  Three pocket slab also good.

Probably loads more, but they're the ones that come to mind without too much pondering.

Enjoy.


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#3 Re: Classic slab problems - Peak District
September 30, 2009, 10:18:29 am
As per title, what are the best slab problems in the Peak? Ideally V3+

Really fun slab at Burbage North to the right of Remergence Area, don't even know if it has a name, but find remergence then head right (as you're facing it) and the next buttress has a good low-level traverse on it with an old rotten tree at the base and the slab is to the right of that.

There are some good slabs on the valley boulders in Burbage South, particularly the ones on the side of Pock Block and The Brick and I think the Useful Boulder (slabby groove thing thats great fun, very sharp arete on the other side).

Good slabs abound at Robin Hoods Stride and Cratcliffe bouldering, ditto for the boulders in the (boggy) field underneath The Roaches.

Grab a guide, they have loads of info in ;)

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#4 Re: Classic slab problems - Peak District
September 30, 2009, 10:29:32 am
None of the decent problems have V grades

 ;)

Sorry - I meant B4 or above  ;)

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#5 Re: Classic slab problems - Peak District
September 30, 2009, 10:32:10 am
- Crescent Slab to the right of Crescent Arete - nice, tenuous pebble pulling.
- Daydreamer on Counts Buttress
- Shock Horror Slab
- The 7a slab thing to the right of Ben's Wall @ Robin Hood's Stride
- Satin (not sure it's strictly a slab but fun, and worth throwing in to the mix)

Many thanks for these - I have done the ones at the Roaches, they were very good!!

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#6 Re: Classic slab problems - Peak District
September 30, 2009, 10:35:21 am
Really fun slab at Burbage North to the right of Remergence Area, don't even know if it has a name, but find remergence then head right (as you're facing it)

Cool, thanks slack---line.

Yes - I do have guide books, but I find they are no substitute for personal suggestions.

If anyone knows where I can get a copy of the Rockfax guide, please let me know...

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#7 Re: Classic slab problems - Peak District
September 30, 2009, 10:42:34 am
As per title, what are the best slab problems in the Peak? Ideally V3+

Really fun slab at Burbage North to the right of Remergence Area, don't even know if it has a name, but find remergence then head right (as you're facing it) and the next buttress has a good low-level traverse on it with an old rotten tree at the base and the slab is to the right of that.


Tiny Slab   :goodidea:

lagerstarfish

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#8 Re: Classic slab problems - Peak District
September 30, 2009, 10:52:19 am
The Lone Boulder at Stanage has some slabby variants on it that are fun.

The traverse below deliverance is an entertaining slab (7a ish), but not to everyone's taste (coz it's a traverse)

Nicotine Stain at Burb North is good

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#9 Re: Classic slab problems - Peak District
October 01, 2009, 01:10:28 am
another frustrating slab is the 7a at robin hoods stride. on the little block near the rock wall.
although short, it requires very good footwork.
as mentioned earlier the roaches mud flat slabs are awesome.
for some thing a bit bold, do sundowner E2 5A at froggatt. its the direct version of sunset slab. i really enjoyed this route.

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#10 Re: Classic slab problems - Peak District
October 01, 2009, 09:24:15 am
I quite like the V3+ grade  :goodidea:

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#11 Re: Classic slab problems - Peak District
October 01, 2009, 09:36:53 am
if you wanna push yourself to 7a+ get on pressure drop.

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#12 Re: Classic slab problems - Peak District
October 01, 2009, 09:58:45 am
for some thing a bit bold, do sundowner E2 5A at froggatt. its the direct version of sunset slab. i really enjoyed this route.

If you want routes too then you've tons to go at all over the place.  At Froggatt...

Three Pebble
Long John's
Brown's Eliminate
.....

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#13 Re: Classic slab problems - Peak District
October 01, 2009, 11:03:27 am

Honorary Caley at the Plantation ?

dave k

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#14 Re: Classic slab problems - Peak District
October 01, 2009, 11:07:00 am
There is a lovely slab at Ramshaw. Left of the main path on a boulder facing the Roaches. Very easy to find. 2 main problems around the v2-4 range. Quite high though, so take a decent mat.

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#15 Re: Classic slab problems - Peak District
October 01, 2009, 01:03:16 pm
Thanks for all the responses so far, keep 'em coming.

Surprised nobody has mentioned the mole at Wimberry yet (Mile's slab)...


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#16 Re: Classic slab problems - Peak District
October 01, 2009, 02:15:34 pm
Surprised nobody has mentioned the mole at Wimberry yet (Mile's slab)...

Indeed.  And on the Wimberry tip, how about Winsome?  A quality 7a.  And there are other 6a ish slabs on the block just above the tank, whatever it's called.  The cannon maybe?

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#17 Re: Classic slab problems - Peak District
October 01, 2009, 02:57:46 pm
Come to Wales and do Willy Two Goes, the best slab problem I have ever done.

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#18 Re: Classic slab problems - Peak District
October 01, 2009, 03:03:26 pm
Well at Froggatt Joe's Direct Start is a great fun, plus there's some harder versions on either side of it.

Does anyone have any thoughts on Rollerwall at Burbage South? Font 7c, v9, or E4? Looks like Snivelling Shits to me. Tiny crimps, on not massively high, but easy angled slab. Not that I've done SS.

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#19 Re: Classic slab problems - Peak District
October 01, 2009, 03:12:21 pm
rollerwall ain't easy angled. it climbs more like a wall.

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#20 Re: Classic slab problems - Peak District
October 01, 2009, 03:45:24 pm
What Dave said, nothing like Snivelling. One of the hardest rockovers around too, though easier for the tall.

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#21 Re: Classic slab problems - Peak District
October 02, 2009, 09:01:46 am
Indeed.  And on the Wimberry tip, how about Winsome?  A quality 7a. 

Winsome looks amazing, keep wussing out of trying it though - seems very high to try with a small pad :)

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#22 Re: Classic slab problems - Peak District
October 02, 2009, 09:06:42 am
What about Angel's share/Jumping on a beetle at Black Rocks? Are they classed as routes or highballs? If so, what are the bouldering grades?

They look amazing, way out of my league though  ;D

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#23 Re: Classic slab problems - Peak District
October 02, 2009, 09:40:30 am
JB gave Angel's Share 7C+. Tis rather highball though!.

Andy B

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#24 Re: Classic slab problems - Peak District
October 02, 2009, 12:27:16 pm
Does anyone have any thoughts on Rollerwall at Burbage South? Font 7c, v9, or E4? Looks like Snivelling Shits to me. Tiny crimps, on not massively high, but easy angled slab. Not that I've done SS.

Although, as Dave said, they climb very differently, I think Rollerwall is still a slab, as it was still all about weighting my feet, rather than just straight boning. Especially the jump at the top!
Sniveling Shit felt high enough for me not to want to fall off without pads, but luckily I carried my number four camalot all the way up it to protect that really tricky bit after the pocket. ::). If it's fine with pads now though, then it's going to be much easier than Rollerwall.

 

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