UKBouldering.com

Summer problems in font (Read 9192 times)

joeb

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 116
  • Karma: +0/-0
Summer problems in font
August 03, 2009, 02:14:53 pm
Heading to font in august for a week not exactly ideal conditions I know, but was wondering what people would recommend ? I have watched neil's most recent monthly dose inspiring as usual. Any suggestions would be good especially in the 7's.

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
#1 Re: Summer problems in font
August 03, 2009, 03:16:43 pm
atomic playboy seems ok at the moment

joeb

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 116
  • Karma: +0/-0
#2 Re: Summer problems in font
August 03, 2009, 04:26:02 pm
not sure about that have never been a huge fan of the sideways action.  :whistle:

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
#3 Re: Summer problems in font
August 03, 2009, 08:09:00 pm
i think traverses should be banned and any chrome that does them should be sentenced to hard labour. however, it really is a good problem. especially when you see the amount of effort people put into la cochiwank just around the corner

Paul B

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9634
  • Karma: +264/-4
#4 Re: Summer problems in font
August 03, 2009, 08:17:37 pm
are you out of your tiny mind? Its a drainage channel and your stray foot tries to forge new footholds underneath the roof in the soft crappy rock, its not a great problem. I'd prefer cochiwank anyday.

ps - I miss you   :shag:

joeb

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 116
  • Karma: +0/-0
#5 Re: Summer problems in font
August 04, 2009, 08:50:53 am
Cracking over 1500 problems to choose from and i'm getting spoofs this thread hasn't gone how i'd hoped  :please:

neil h

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1450
  • Karma: +72/-3
  • You think i'm fat
    • sibl
#6 Re: Summer problems in font
August 04, 2009, 09:08:20 am
here you go 30 odd problems to do in font in the heat, I can point you to more just ask





neil h

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1450
  • Karma: +72/-3
  • You think i'm fat
    • sibl
#7 Re: Summer problems in font
August 04, 2009, 09:11:44 am
we went out last night, there are a few areas that are great at the moment, the Coquibus for one, just chill in the day if its too hot, then head out about 6 in the evening and climb till dark, in the Coquibus area it was a pleseant 16 degress last night so lots of cranking, we managed to do well on a avery sloppy 7c+ last night, conditions were good.

joeb

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 116
  • Karma: +0/-0
#8 Re: Summer problems in font
August 04, 2009, 09:15:55 am
This was the thread i was after; legend neil. I think my wife tried to stay at yours as this trip is a 30th birthday present but you sadly won't allow the pooch. Good to hear conditions and temps that low, have you seen much wet stuff.

neil h

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1450
  • Karma: +72/-3
  • You think i'm fat
    • sibl
#9 Re: Summer problems in font
August 04, 2009, 09:19:31 am
palpatations was nice and wet last night.

everything is in really good nick at the moment, but temps are going to get hot this week.

when you coming?, sorry about the dog and all, my wife is allergic to them you see. Be glad to go for a climb with you if your around

joeb

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 116
  • Karma: +0/-0
#10 Re: Summer problems in font
August 04, 2009, 09:29:09 am
Over with a few friends the week of the 17th. No worries about the pooch. Will drop you a line closer to the event about hooking up. Any conditions reports gratefully received, will have to buy you a drink for all those videos.

joeb

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 116
  • Karma: +0/-0
#11 Re: Summer problems in font
August 05, 2009, 11:45:27 am
Whilst trawling through the bleau site found this http://bleau.info/demoiselles/18385.html looks very odd not planning on looking at it or anything just intrigued by the big number.

i.munro

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 942
  • Karma: +15/-11
#12 Re: Summer problems in font
August 05, 2009, 12:41:11 pm
sorry about the dog and all, my wife is allergic to them you see. Be glad to go for a climb with you if your around


Oooh that's good to know, one more reason to saty at Maisonbleau.

neil h

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1450
  • Karma: +72/-3
  • You think i'm fat
    • sibl
#13 Re: Summer problems in font
August 05, 2009, 05:42:19 pm
Whilst trawling through the bleau site found this http://bleau.info/demoiselles/18385.html looks very odd not planning on looking at it or anything just intrigued by the big number.


think its a little over graded, at 7c traverse into a 7b straight up with one move extra to link them both together :-\

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
#14 Re: Summer problems in font
August 05, 2009, 09:46:47 pm
i think traverses should be banned and any chrome that does them should be sentenced to hard labour.

hard labour for uptown guru then

joeb

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 116
  • Karma: +0/-0
#15 Re: Summer problems in font
August 06, 2009, 09:59:09 am
like the look of le lot de boudins is it in the 7 & 8s book as i can't see it ?

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5803
  • Karma: +231/-4
#16 Re: Summer problems in font
August 06, 2009, 10:35:11 am
Not in the book - they don't include many of the traverses. It's right next to plastikman though, which is in the book, so you'll have no trouble finding it. Also neil h does it on the latest dose.

joeb

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 116
  • Karma: +0/-0
#17 Re: Summer problems in font
August 06, 2009, 11:06:06 am
thanks for that :) also sweet home listed on bleau at demoiselles easy to find ?

Richie Crouch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1830
  • Karma: +92/-0
  • G Time
#18 Re: Summer problems in font
August 06, 2009, 06:20:16 pm
Myself and a couple of underground beasts are heading to font for a bit of a warm up/break on the way to Magic Wood, so it'd be nice to get a lowdown/hook up on some good areas to go if you are about Neil. We'll be getting into font between 9 and 10am on Monday 10th next week...

If it is unbearably roasting we may just hit Milly and load up on cakes and wait out the heat somewhere nice and shaded before having a session in the evening  8)

Stubbs

  • Guest
#19 Re: Summer problems in font
August 06, 2009, 06:26:51 pm
Richie I don't believe you referred to Andi Emo as an undergound beast!

neil h

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1450
  • Karma: +72/-3
  • You think i'm fat
    • sibl
#20 Re: Summer problems in font
August 06, 2009, 10:15:30 pm
thanks for that :) also sweet home listed on bleau at demoiselles easy to find ?


just got back from said boulder, hard as hell, but it was 30+ degrees at 10 oclock this evening, and we came up with duff beta making harder, its amazing go try it, piss to find, It will be in next months dose

neil h

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1450
  • Karma: +72/-3
  • You think i'm fat
    • sibl
#21 Re: Summer problems in font
August 06, 2009, 10:16:50 pm
Myself and a couple of underground beasts are heading to font for a bit of a warm up/break on the way to Magic Wood, so it'd be nice to get a lowdown/hook up on some good areas to go if you are about Neil. We'll be getting into font between 9 and 10am on Monday 10th next week...

If it is unbearably roasting we may just hit Milly and load up on cakes and wait out the heat somewhere nice and shaded before having a session in the evening  8)

yes I.m around, pop round mine when you get here, we will go hit some nice shaddy areas, I will put the kettle on, bring me some brown sauce  ;D

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
#22 Re: Summer problems in font
August 06, 2009, 10:26:51 pm
underground beasts? wtf have you done to my sides crouch?

Monolith

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Straight outta Cronton.
  • Posts: 3955
  • Karma: +218/-6
#23 Re: Summer problems in font
August 06, 2009, 11:11:01 pm
Richie's post should have read: "bringing two underground spotting beasts/chauffeurs along on my euro rampage as I attempt to make each of my guidebooks 2lb heavier in ink".

Lee, I heard today you don't climb anymore but love to train. We should do lunch soon darling, it's been too long.

Richie Crouch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1830
  • Karma: +92/-0
  • G Time
#24 Re: Summer problems in font
August 07, 2009, 04:54:14 pm
yes I.m around, pop round mine when you get here, we will go hit some nice shaddy areas, I will put the kettle on, bring me some brown sauce  ;D

Cheers Neil, looking forward to it! I hope I am up and walking properly by then. Went for a 2 day stroll in the Lakes to avoid pretrip training injuries and my right foot has swollen up all weird and hurts to walk on 2 days later  :oops: Treating it with ice and wincing through the Ashes as the Ozzies have been trouncing us all day  :spank:

But back to the important stuff... Would you like any Earl Grey and do you prefer HP or Daddies sauce  :-\

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal