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Advice for a weekend destination (Read 6827 times)

squeek

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Advice for a weekend destination
November 13, 2003, 01:12:39 pm
I'm off bouldering at the weekend, if the weather is good, and am asking the good folk of this forum for some destination advice.

i'll be setting of from Manchester, so Peak/Yorkshire is ok.  

I've got the Peak bouldering guide, but not the yorkshire one, although I'm not that bothered about an actual guide for the problems so long as it's easy enough to get to the place.

A small(ish) walk in, 20 mins or less.

Not that busy.

And finally, I'm pretty bumbly (up to V3 outdoors), so i would like somewhere with a good selection of easy-ish problems.

I've been to a lot of the more popular places, burbage S & N, Caley (was looking pretty green on sat when I drove past), Almscliffe, so would like to try somewhere new maybe.

What about Robin Hood's stride?  Although it is quite a distance away.

Will a lot of the boulders at the roaches be a) busy, or b) sat in a marsh now?

Ta

Big Frank

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#1 Advice for a weekend destination
November 13, 2003, 01:16:50 pm
Earl

squeek

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#2 Advice for a weekend destination
November 13, 2003, 01:23:23 pm
Hmmm, could do, i haven't been since there were more midgeys than rock.

On similar lines I could go to Bridies as well and pop into my parents for tea...

Is bridies busy at the weekend?  i've only been mid-week before and I was the only one there.

Bubba

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#3 Advice for a weekend destination
November 13, 2003, 01:26:42 pm
Earl is great, but is there much at V3 and below? Bridestones has never been *that* busy when I've been, certainly not to the extend of the popular Peak venues.

- Cratcliffe / Robin Hood's Stride.
- Roaches :: Spring boulders will be in the bog by now I reckon, but the rest will be fine.
- Newstones.
- Stanage
- Widdop

dave

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#4 Advice for a weekend destination
November 13, 2003, 01:28:30 pm
if i were you i'd go to roaches (personally not that stuck on the boldering there on the whole but some gems), bridestones, or wimberry.

the stride/cratcliffe is proper bo and sound like the perfect place for you, but as you say its a fair way from the manc-smoke.

squeek

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#5 Advice for a weekend destination
November 13, 2003, 01:29:24 pm
Is there lots of easy bouldering at Stanage that isn't in the guide?
Been there lots, but never bouldering.

Bubba

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#6 Advice for a weekend destination
November 13, 2003, 01:32:27 pm
Quite a lot of easy stuff at the Plantation and at the far right hand end. Most of it is in the guide I think.

Big Frank

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#7 Advice for a weekend destination
November 13, 2003, 01:32:52 pm
Quote from: "Bubba"
Earl is great, but is there much at V3 and below?


there are 13 problems of <V3 on Yorks grit.com and I'd of thought that would keep most happy for a day.

grimer

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#8 Advice for a weekend destination
November 13, 2003, 01:51:26 pm
try the piece of mind boulders at the roaches. There's a topo here on this site, under places, above

vivahate

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#9 Advice for a weekend destination
November 13, 2003, 02:38:59 pm
plantation does have quite a few problems around V3-V4, quite a few on the lone boulder and a good arete b4 on the pebbleboulder

Adam Lincoln

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#10 Advice for a weekend destination
November 13, 2003, 02:40:47 pm
By the way, slightly off topic. Whilst on about the Planation, what grade does Jason lip trverse get nowadays? Up and left from Green Traverse?

Qualidy problem!

dave

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#11 Advice for a weekend destination
November 13, 2003, 02:53:02 pm
that one up the prow with the dodgy landing, used to be a vid on cragx.com? i always found that piss for B7, mucheaiser than the short green traverse, but soem strong guy was telling me him and his mate foudn it much harder - maybe they had no footwork. V5/6/font 6c+??

Adam Lincoln

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#12 Advice for a weekend destination
November 13, 2003, 02:54:25 pm
Quote from: "dave"
that one up the prow with the dodgy landing, used to be a vid on cragx.com? i always found that piss for B7, mucheaiser than the short green traverse, but soem strong guy was telling me him and his mate foudn it much harder - maybe they had no footwork. V5/6/font 6c+??


Yup, traverses round from the side then onto the prow into a pocket

One of best problems at the Plantation!

dave

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#13 Advice for a weekend destination
November 13, 2003, 02:56:43 pm
have you done that seamless B6 on the back of that block? i had a look a couple of years ago, just remember it feeling a. dirrty and b. nigh on impossible.

Bubba

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#14 Advice for a weekend destination
November 13, 2003, 03:01:17 pm
That's not Jason's Lip Traveres, is it? I thought that was on a different block?

Adam Lincoln

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#15 Advice for a weekend destination
November 13, 2003, 03:05:08 pm
Quote from: "dave"
have you done that seamless B6 on the back of that block? i had a look a couple of years ago, just remember it feeling a. dirrty and b. nigh on impossible.


Dont think so. Hadnt been anywhere near that block up until Saturday...

dave

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#16 Advice for a weekend destination
November 13, 2003, 03:06:53 pm
Quote from: "Bubba"
That's not Jason's Lip Traveres, is it? I thought that was on a different block?


as far as i know the only other JLT is at remergence. i've never know the B7 beign called JLT but most unnamed probs in the peak could be called Jason's summertorother so i made the link.

Bubba

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#17 Advice for a weekend destination
November 13, 2003, 03:10:47 pm
Hmmmmm.....not sure now myself - Fatboy will know....

fatboySlimfast

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#18 Advice for a weekend destination
November 13, 2003, 03:50:03 pm
seamless is on back of 'bad landing traverse' yes! Directly up from the Hourglass(we brushed the fuck out of this a few years ago so you could continue the trav, one month later it was furryier than my crack, who says brushing destroys vegitation, that stuffs indestructible!!)
 
jasons lip trav or 'bentleys gonna sort you out' as in cockfax? Low start to trav rightwards on sloper to bizarre heel hook mantel thingy on small arete on't right??

Bubba

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#19 Advice for a weekend destination
November 13, 2003, 03:53:34 pm
Yeah, I thought it was on the Bentley's block too....

dave

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#20 Advice for a weekend destination
November 13, 2003, 03:54:30 pm
ah so JLT is really BGSYO! that got a nasty start move all crouched up on gash undersideclings.

anyone know where/what "Mike lea's gonna sort you out" is? Fatboy?

Adam Lincoln

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#21 Advice for a weekend destination
November 13, 2003, 03:59:11 pm
Quote from: "dave"
ah so JLT is really BGSYO! that got a nasty start move all crouched up on gash undersideclings.

anyone know where/what "Mike lea's gonna sort you out" is? Fatboy?


So what was that thing i did called?
Big pocket on the last move. Above a bad landing..?

fatboySlimfast

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#22 Advice for a weekend destination
November 13, 2003, 04:00:44 pm
Now that is a puzzler and Ive never asked round....
could it be the trav into bullworker?
(Also have you done bullworker going for last jug with left rather than normal right, it really hurts owwwwww!!)
You know the block below bullworker got low trav on crag side and intersting jump arete thing wit groove to left? Check the sitter to that jumper arete, faking minging pebble pull........

Just had a thought...is it that slopey arete thing above the Jasons lip/bentley block (not the deep end)

fatboySlimfast

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#23 Advice for a weekend destination
November 13, 2003, 04:06:03 pm
Quote
Big pocket on the last move. Above a bad landing..?

Did you move round a hanging arete on two goodish slopers, foot up and rock up wit high foot on right and reach wit right hand to good pocket?
if so 'bad landing traverse' if not did it have boulder behind and arete sloped right to left to said pocket? if so read last post cos dont know name

dave

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#24 Advice for a weekend destination
November 13, 2003, 04:10:36 pm
i'm pretty sure lincoln is on about the BLT.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=6085

 

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