[Fiend]

What a bollox topic eh .

I have been roped in (literally, I can't escape from the gri-gri once it's on) to accompanying Duncan Disorderly in his endless manhood-proving quest to redpoint F7c this year. The way I see it, it gets me fitter and stronger to climb better trad in the Rhinnogs and on the Atlantic Coast, and provides a useful evening plan when weather and time preclude climbing somewhere that's actually inspiring.

Anyway, I'd like some further suggestions. So far we have looked at:

The Boltest, Long Tor Quarry - no, might as well be F8c, not a hope.
The Squealer, Lorry Park Quarry - very good, just got to sort the crux and then it will be on.
Fossil Wall, Beginners Wall - no, grotty nasty bouldering.
Laughing At The Rain, Cowdale - fun upper half, but boils down to a very hard boulder problem start, not sure if I'm capable.
Another Toadside Attraction, Tor - quite fun for a polished bag of gash, felt very steady, probably agree with F7b+.
(Body Machine, Tor - Dunc's tried it, no longer inspired due to frigging shenanigans now required).

Options being considered:
Loki The Trickster, Thor's Cave - sounds interesting, Cookie keeps inviting me to Thors, and dry in rain.
Stungerelda or whatever it's called, Nettle Buttress - looks like a good line, bit of a mission to get to.
Stuff at the Cornizzle - some options but will they be dry??

Any other ideas?? Ideally fairly accessible, clean, properly bolted, and not boiling down to pure boulder problems. Any more quarried ones?? Also Yorkshire might be considered too.

Ta,
Fiend 

[account_inactive]

Comedy at Kilnsey
To old to be bold at Rubishizzle
Body machine and Wild in me at the Tor

[JC]

Another one you should look at in Matlock Fiend is  Wil E. Coyote ***  at High Tor.  Never anyone on it, which is a shame cos i reckon its better than both The Boltest & Squealer! Longer than both & no seepage either.  If your getting on with the Squealer ok then this is quite similar - fingery lower wall & sustained upper. It was rebolted a couple of years ago as well.

Jon

[IanP]

A good grade 7c, I know Yorkshire better than the peak

Peak:
Stone the Loach, Embankment - sustained climbing a couple of dynamic moves (for me) but nothing desparate.  Pretty stead for the grade and the best route I've done at the Embankment (faint praise maybe).
Sturgeon - only had quick try on it and didn't rp but was actually quite impressed. 
Why Me, Two Tier - powerful crux, many think hard for 7c and probably is if you're short.
Body Machine - superb, benchmark, haven't done it since tree went and agree that frigging required is off putting.

Yorkshire
Malham
New Dawn - brilliant, big and pumpy, hard for the grade.
Tremelo - very good more technical than new Dawn, a bit cruxy though still a big pitch.
Serious Young Toads - a bit underrated, super sustained wall climbing on friendly(ish) holds, no really hard moves, no rests or even much of a shake after the start.
Free and Easy - great position (obviously) but great climbing as well, slighty sharp and hardish crux low down then sustained wall climbing on nice holds to the top.  We worth 3* imo, and possibly the easiest of the 4 at Malham I've done.

Kilnsey
Haven't managed to RP Dominatrix or Biological Need, Dominatrix was the better imo,  big and steep with spaced bolts, need to get back on it.  Always looked away from Comedy, need to get on it, obviously a bit steep!
Metal Guru - good, bouldery start, then good steep moves to hands of rest and easier (but no pushover) finish, may well be 7b+.
Slab Culture with Myra Hindley extension - imo the proper way to climb this, a good outing finishing at the top of the crag again maybe 7b+.

Goredale
Pierrepoint to the roof - excellent big pitch, a bit of 'Goredale' feel, yet again maybe 7b+ (and may have been downgraded).

[Jerry Morefat]

just to add my tuppence.

Celebration at two tier is excellent. It's a technical wall climb and no where near the 7C+ it's down as in the guide.
Lightweight at two tier is also good, although you really have to do the left hand finish to take the 7C tick. I took the right hand finish which makes it a good 7B+.
The tier drop explodes on upper two tier isn't bad and boils down to one hard technical move.   

[Bonjoy]

I spent a fruitless afternoon struggling on Tier Drop Explodes, the crux seemed more like the crux on an 8a+ than a 7c. Then I found out that a(nother) hold has broken and it hasn’t yet been reclimbed in it’s current state. Not 7c.

[dave]

Fossil Wall, Beginners Wall - no, grotty nasty bouldering.

I can only assume you've been on this when its not fully dry or clean. Quality wise this is easily one of the top 3 F7c i've ever done. up to the first bolt is a really quality font 6cish boulder problem (or at least it was before some retards moved a block under it) then a really good crux transfering to the RH cracks, then plug away to the top. great.

otherwise as everyone else has said, Wild In Me for a sustained crimpy thing, or Too Old To Be Bold for a bit more varied climbing with a heartbreaker move to the ledge. Otherwise you could look at Eat The Rich.

[andy popp]

Is Fising Without a License ivy free? That's good - but tough I thought. This is the Sea is v. easy. A notch down (just) I really enjoyed 'A Naive and Sentimental' (cue jokes).

[dave]

This is the Sea is v. easy.

its 7c+ thought innit? admitedly not far off 7c though.

[ChrisC]

When was this Jon?  If it was towards the end of last year / earlier this year then I think the crucial hold has been glued back on now.

While on the subject of Peak 7c's I'd recommend Hallowed Be My Name at Willersley, a really good bunch of moves that starts with a very large span!  Given 7c+ in the book but didn't feel too bad once worked out.  Blessed are the Weak, the 7a+ to the left is very good too.

[Johnny Brown]

I too have been on a quest to climb 7c.

The first one I managed was Lightweight at Two tier. Fingery boulder problem to start (shade and cool temps make a huge difference) to a slabby groove, decent rest, then burly moves out left over a small roof.The top feels desperate until you have a sequence, but all felt fine on redpoint. I'm fascinated by this talk of an easier right finish, when I tried it as part of the E5 I thought a hold had come off. Steady E5 then a uk 7b move.

Since, I've been trying Body Machine. I don't what this talk off frigging is, I've just been climbing from the ground. One tricky move at twenty foot, then nice climbing. I can't touch the crux traverse above the break without a hang though. Last redpoint was worse than my first...

[ChrisC]

Is Fising Without a License ivy free?

I had a look earlier this year.  It's clear of vegetation, but is currently filthy and hasn't been dry all year.  Seepage around the low break.

[ChrisC]

I can't touch the crux traverse above the break without a hang though

The thing that helped me was when someone suggested "Wide Feet. Small hand movements".  I went up there with that in mind, worked something out and did it next go I think - I'd previously floundered a a fair bit on that section.

Also, are you getting a full hands off rest in the break with your RF well and truly cammed in?  I was able to recover as if I were the ground there.

[El Mocho]

Last redpoint was worse than my first...

I heard you had been going back down a lot, maybe you need a seperate identity to post all this limestone stuff or your reputation will be ruined, how about you get a new profile: Ian Dawes. Does sound more like a limestone crimper to me.

You fancy Malham later this week? (I hear Kilnsey is now wet)

[Bonjoy]

JC - Wil E. Coyote looks good but is it not 7c+?

useless punter - It was only a week or two ago. The obvious glue covered crimp was in place, I think it's another hold further up that has come off. Maybe it hasn't, but if not then it's a very hard 7c and not one i'd recommend to someone pushing the grade. If you describe how the crux should climb then i'll know if anything is missing, I'd be interested to find out! Is Hallowed Be Thy Name not 7c+?

Loki the Trickster – I’m not sure this will fit your brief Fiend as it’s pretty bouldery. The 7b+ and 7c+ routes at Thor’s are much better anyway.

Most of the best suggestions have already been made, of those I reckon Stone the Loach meets your requirements best.

Cry of Despair is the one to do on the Cornice if it ever dries.

Half Decent (the new none-tree start to Body Machine into the top of Indecent) is a goodish not too hard 7c, though it does involve pulling on one small hold at the start.

[Johnny Brown]

The thing that helped me was when someone suggested "Wide Feet. Small hand movements".  I went up there with that in mind, worked something out and did it next go I think - I'd previously floundered a a fair bit on that section.

Yeah, I can do it fine like that, just not when pumped.

Also, are you getting a full hands off rest in the break with your RF well and truly cammed in?  I was able to recover as if I were the ground there.

You are my hero. I spent twenty minutes there on thursday, hanging off my foot, and then managed one more move. Its a good job Char was using a grigri as I think he would have dropped me laughing.

ElMo: I'm really not enjoying sport climbing enough to start travelling to yorkshire for it. Bottom line is its a lot of faff in return for some deeply unmemorable climbing. Day 3 on Body Machine and I was losing the will to live. It was only the thought I might not have to do it again that kept me going...

[ChrisC]

Bonjoy - I've never been on it, but the glue covered hold did sit on my fireplace all of last winter.  My housemate stuck it back on earlier this year.  Not sure if this make sense but he mentioned something about a hideous pull on a small painful hold?

Hallowed Be My Name is 7c+ in the book, Dunno - it felt soft to me, but then it may just have suited I guess?

[Serpico]

If I could only do 2 7c's ever again they'd have to be New Dawn at Malham and Pierrepoint the full pitch at Gordale with the Last Dog start and 'new' sneaky right hand finish - makes the route low in the grade, but much more evenly sustained.
Both are easily worth 4 stars anywhere in the world.
Comedy at Kilnsey is worth a mention - short but fun.
Dominatrix also at Kilnsey usually figures highly in peoples recommendations, I couldn't comment as I've not done it - I'm saving it for my old age (probably next year).

[dave]

Both are easily worth 4 stars anywhere in the world.

but everywhere else other than yorkshire understands that in a 3-star system the absolute maximum star rating is 3 stars.

[Johnny Brown]

So tight with cash yet so free with self-aggrandisement.

[Serpico]

but everywhere else other than yorkshire understands that in a 3-star system the absolute maximum star rating is 3 stars.

Sometimes 3 stars just aren't enough, you've got to give 110%.

[Serpico]

So tight with cash yet so free with self-aggrandisement.

Maybe, but I live in Lancashire.

[SA Chris]

Both are easily worth 4 stars anywhere in the world.

but everywhere else other than yorkshire understands that in a 3-star system the absolute maximum star rating is 3 stars.

Loads of places in the world use a 5 star system.

[dave]

but everywhere else other than yorkshire understands that in a 3-star system the absolute maximum star rating is 3 stars.

Sometimes 3 stars just aren't enough, you've got to give 110%.

Why not give 115%, 25 hours a day, 8 days a week?

[Serpico]

Why not give 115%, 25 hours a day, 8 days a week?

I've tried, you just can't maintain that kind of pace 53 weeks a year.