[Slopey G]

I'm Thinking of going to Font in January next year. Is this a good time to go?- i'm thinkin it might be a bit too cold, frictiontastic but cold.

Has anyone been out around this time- can you tell me if its worth goin.

Cheers

G

 :shock:

[Bubba]

January will be just fine - cold is good  :D

[Jim]

The colder the better (unless your camping tho)

[dave]

january is probably the best time to go, cos its generally drier then november/december. In fact i seen a long range prediction for the british winter (jan feb etc) that says much colder and drier than usual which bodes well for all bouldering etc, and font is not that far away so could be the same..

[Doylo]

Last january we had 8 perfect days, with snow on the ground but not on the boulders, blue skies evey day, it was mint! Cold is good, its not normally windy in font so its not too bad. Going back in jan for more of the same (it'll probably piss!).

[vivahate]

im off in march for a week in the forest.. ohhh yeeah!

[dave]

just to get you going heres a vid of a freddie mercury lookalike doing a "7b+" in the forest:

[Bubba]

Someone's been using Sorenson then  :wink:

That problem looks desperate.

[AndyR]

just to get you going heres a vid of a freddie mercury lookalike doing a "7b+" in the forest:

Errr, I might be wrong, but isn't that a classic 6c?? At least, that's what a 'local' told me when I did it a couple of weeks ago :?:

[dave]

http://bleau.info/cuisiniere/1608.html

i gather its regarded as a soft touch though. - looks like 11.11% of repeaters on that site think its 6c anall!

[AndyR]

http://bleau.info/cuisiniere/1608.html

i gather its regarded as a soft touch though. - looks like 11.11% of repeaters on that site think its 6c anall!

Just a bit!  I'm a textbook weak punter and I got it second go - I thought the 7b+ traversed in from low on the right and went straight up the crimpy wall without any of the slopey jugs on the left, but then, the description is pretty vague in that 7&8 guidebook  :?

[dave]

although i wasn't there, i belive scouse got it with very few goes and  did it several times for the angles. dunno if thats the right start really, asi said i never tried it, only had a couple of goes on the 7a just left last time i was there but i didn't get on with it (shot skin) and i thought some of the holds looked chipped.

the 7b+ did look very feasable though from memory - maybe scouse can clear it up.

[AndyR]

and i thought some of the holds looked chipped.

Yep, deffo - my friend actually broke the obvious chipped hold just after I did it, so it's prob a bit harder now

Whatever the grade, it is a cool problem and a lot easier if you watch a local do it first :D

[JR]

Dave, font is only on the way to chamonix in January...

kim has a video of scouse doing it i think...

[Carnage]

Man, check the size of that avatar!! :shock:

[Bubba]

Yeah, that was just too big!! I've resized it.....

[dave]

Dave, font is only on the way to chamonix in January...

kim has a video of scouse doing it i think...

thats the vid i'm on about, you pussywhipped muthafukka!

[Scouse D]

That "7b+" is indeed a little soft touch, although one local was pretty sure of the grade. I iced it on my first go from the bottom after flashing the last moves too. This is not usually the case for me on 7b+ problems. It is a very good problem, but much easier than the 7a LH finish which I did last year! I claiming the 7b+ though-I need the boost...

[jonP]

Has anyone done Hyperplomb at Apremont?  Is it as scary as it looks?

[dave]

i got both hand on the lip on my very first trip but never been to try again - never really been that struck on it. i remember the fall feeling a lot longer than it should.

i was always more psyched for medaille.

[jonP]

Medaille en Chocolat is so good it should be in Yorkshire!

[dave]

I dont remember there being any initials carved in it?

However it is now chipped so you're probably right.



 :wink:

[jonP]

Medaille isn't chipped?!

But I take your point - Medaille is a well known problem, attempted by hundreds of climbers every year, whereas some of the finest problems in Yorkshire are known only to a select few.

I'll stop there, before I'm accused of bringing RT-style trolling & bickering to this forum.

[dave]

it is chipped - the other year when that froggy-G went radio-rental and went on a rampage with a hammer and an airgun he knocked some of the holds off this - i saw the damage almost a year ago when i was last at that bit of apremont.

[AndyR]

Has anyone done Hyperplomb at Apremont?  Is it as scary as it looks?

Tried it back in Feb - easy up to the lip and then increasingly scary slapping up slopey scoops - thankfully it started to snow before I could really scare myself