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Done Cresent Arete? Archangel will be a breeze! (Read 8116 times)

Bubba

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Which problem is that then? Can't picture it in the video....

Adam Lincoln

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Quote from: "dave"
i tell you whats funny, the number of people who think they've just done E4 cos they've done that 6b hanging arete problem thats wrongly captioned as Breadline on The Real Thing! :lol:


I corrected someone only Saturday about this!

Personally i think Breadline is easier than that hanging arete! And safer!

dave

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Quote from: "Bubba"
Which problem is that then? Can't picture it in the video....


say you're stood looking at NTBTA then the handing 6b arete is up and right, on the near arete of the photograph block. you know, 2 slots, sloper on the nose then arete:



never donw breadline or even tried it cos it looks like theres no grips, but i shoudl really have a go.

Bubba

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Oh yeah, I know the one, but never done it - the landing's a bit tasty innit? Though not as bad as the Breadline slot if you do a Mark.

Seen JohnnyBrown attempting Patta's thing, but he didn't top out on that occasion....

vivahate

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never tried CA, i gotta wait about a month before i next get a chance to go check it out. Is it in the reals of possibiliy for me if i have climbed 2 problems on the slabby side of the lone boulder. Im assuming its similar kind of technique?

Bubba

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Crescent Arete isn't difficult at all, it just feels committing, especially the first time you do it. Hmmm....and if you've not done it for a while like me!

To make this better, look for an obvious pocket at about 3/4 height - you're aiming to get your foot in that - once you've stood in that you're basically in there, because the arete starts sloping off to a more friendly angle.

It's not really the same style problem as the Lone Boulder slabs though....

vivahate

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cheers.. it sounds like a good problem that i'd like to try, just trying to visualise the moves

Jim

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all you need is a couple of mats to give you some confidence, not really difficult as there is face holds as well so not all smears and slopers

simone

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if you just trust your feet on it you should be fine. also when you get near the top there is a little pebble that you can use for your right foot to enable you to reach the top. it took me a while to find this pebble when i was on it :!: Quality problem :D

tommytwotone

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viva,

get on it, you'll have no probs - the crux (for me at least) is rocking over onto my right foot on a dodgy-looking but perfectly sticky smear.

Hope no-ones had any bad experience with this prob, but I reckon that once your left foot's in the little pocket you'd have to really try quite hard to fall off cos the arete gets really juggy.

Good luck with it - take a spotter though.

Bubba

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Quote from: "tommytwotone"
Hope no-ones had any bad experience with this prob

Oh, I think it's seen more than it's fair share of mini-epics  :D

vivahate

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Quote from: "tommytwotone"
viva,

get on it, you'll have no probs - the crux (for me at least) is rocking over onto my right foot on a dodgy-looking but perfectly sticky smear.

Hope no-ones had any bad experience with this prob, but I reckon that once your left foot's in the little pocket you'd have to really try quite hard to fall off cos the arete gets really juggy.

Good luck with it - take a spotter though.


cheers for your help mate, i appreciate it.

ill remember to pack a spotter ;)

cheers
Chris

 

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