Quote from: Jaspersharpe on June 24, 2009, 02:18:25 pmGlad to hear it! As Doylo says there are TONS of great routes in the sixes. Just watch out for the slab cruxes.........I got well and truely spamked on a 6b one of them slabs, big run out at the top with a desperate crux for the chain
Glad to hear it! As Doylo says there are TONS of great routes in the sixes. Just watch out for the slab cruxes.........
neil, does that mean maisonshower isn't an option
Some more pics of the van if anyone is interested:http://www.flickr.com/photos/39660023@N03/sets/72157620645767174/Thanks to everyone who helped with beta at such short notice, it is well appreciated!
Quote from: Dylan on June 23, 2009, 06:43:58 pmQuote from: Bonjoy on June 23, 2009, 06:21:23 pmQuote from: Paul B on June 23, 2009, 05:53:46 pmAilefroide - Don't bother with the bouldering, but the trad is goodAlbarracinAlicante - Whole region will be warmer in the winter. Better for Nat but plenty in high grades too (think Forada,Sella,Gandia)Alquezar - very sunny. Good for coldest months or if tufas wet at RodellarAnnotArco - not bad, but nothing special. Nice steep climbing, but quite humid mid summer. Lovely town and cafesBaltzolaBerdorf - Large version of Font with grid bolting. Worth looking at if you are in the area. Gets VERY busy at weekends for obvious reasonsBuoux - didn't excite me that much. Too much faffing around on a million limestone pockets for my likingCatalunyaCavallersCeuseChateauvertChironicoClaret - looks a bit scruffy but the climbing is good. Pumpy if you're unfit. Possible in summer (shade from about 18h00), great on sunny winters days. Nearby Thaurac is a bit more year-round.CrescianoCuenca - looks polished sharp and nasty (Not the sectors that I have been too)Dolomites - mega for trad and via ferrata, rubbish for sport climbing. Yes ACE via ferrata!El Chorro - a very long drive. Only suitable for coldest monthsFontainebleau - never heard of it, fontainwhat?FrankenjuraFreyr - vertical polished, old schoolGorge du LoupGorges du Tarn - too hot mid summer, possible to cold/wet in winter, very good in between. Very cold in winterGorges du Verdon - mega. Totally brilliant. Seek out the less travelled parts. Good for scary slacklines!HyltebergenInterlakenKalymnosKjugekullLebakLehnLes Eaux ClairesLofotenMagic WoodMargalefMeshiaMisja PecMontenejosMontsantOrpierre - a bit drab compared to nearby CeusePfalzRodellar - best months mid sept to early novRussan - Solar oven. Winter only. Occasionally dodgy carpark (might be best to park a van in the village and walk an extra km or so) beautiful setting, varied climbing (grey slabs, tufa, monster roofs)Santalinya - very sunny, only suitable for oldest monthsSardinia - hard/expensive to get to by van! Also not as friendly or good climbing as Spain/France/ItalySchlier WasserfallSeynes - Fully s-facing, winter only, lots of tufa.Siurana - Good base for the other crags in the area. Limited in the easy gradesSokolikiSt Leger - Excellent. Nice and steep, mellow place and good parking. Nice stream.SustenpassTargassoneTerradetsTete de Chien - Is this Font?Tetto di SarreTres Pont - lots of shade good escape if too hot at TerradetsVal Di Mello - Very beautiful valley with everything to throw yourself at (bouldering/trad/sport/big wall). Don't go when the festival is on. Second this - totally amazing. Go any time after end of April and before OctVenueVolx - if you want to climb juggy caves Spain has many MUCH better ones than thisVoralpseeZillertal
Quote from: Bonjoy on June 23, 2009, 06:21:23 pmQuote from: Paul B on June 23, 2009, 05:53:46 pmAilefroide - Don't bother with the bouldering, but the trad is goodAlbarracinAlicante - Whole region will be warmer in the winter. Better for Nat but plenty in high grades too (think Forada,Sella,Gandia)Alquezar - very sunny. Good for coldest months or if tufas wet at RodellarAnnotArco - not bad, but nothing special. Nice steep climbing, but quite humid mid summer. Lovely town and cafesBaltzolaBerdorf - Large version of Font with grid bolting. Worth looking at if you are in the area. Gets VERY busy at weekends for obvious reasonsBuoux - didn't excite me that much. Too much faffing around on a million limestone pockets for my likingCatalunyaCavallersCeuseChateauvertChironicoClaret - looks a bit scruffy but the climbing is good. Pumpy if you're unfit. Possible in summer (shade from about 18h00), great on sunny winters days. Nearby Thaurac is a bit more year-round.CrescianoCuenca - looks polished sharp and nasty (Not the sectors that I have been too)Dolomites - mega for trad and via ferrata, rubbish for sport climbing. Yes ACE via ferrata!El Chorro - a very long drive. Only suitable for coldest monthsFontainebleau - never heard of it, fontainwhat?FrankenjuraFreyr - vertical polished, old schoolGorge du LoupGorges du Tarn - too hot mid summer, possible to cold/wet in winter, very good in between. Very cold in winterGorges du Verdon - mega. Totally brilliant. Seek out the less travelled parts. Good for scary slacklines!HyltebergenInterlakenKalymnosKjugekullLebakLehnLes Eaux ClairesLofotenMagic WoodMargalefMeshiaMisja PecMontenejosMontsantOrpierre - a bit drab compared to nearby CeusePfalzRodellar - best months mid sept to early novRussan - Solar oven. Winter only. Occasionally dodgy carpark (might be best to park a van in the village and walk an extra km or so) beautiful setting, varied climbing (grey slabs, tufa, monster roofs)Santalinya - very sunny, only suitable for oldest monthsSardinia - hard/expensive to get to by van! Also not as friendly or good climbing as Spain/France/ItalySchlier WasserfallSeynes - Fully s-facing, winter only, lots of tufa.Siurana - Good base for the other crags in the area. Limited in the easy gradesSokolikiSt Leger - Excellent. Nice and steep, mellow place and good parking. Nice stream.SustenpassTargassoneTerradetsTete de Chien - Is this Font?Tetto di SarreTres Pont - lots of shade good escape if too hot at TerradetsVal Di Mello - Very beautiful valley with everything to throw yourself at (bouldering/trad/sport/big wall). Don't go when the festival is on. Second this - totally amazing. Go any time after end of April and before OctVenueVolx - if you want to climb juggy caves Spain has many MUCH better ones than thisVoralpseeZillertal
Quote from: Paul B on June 23, 2009, 05:53:46 pmAilefroide - Don't bother with the bouldering, but the trad is goodAlbarracinAlicante - Whole region will be warmer in the winter. Better for Nat but plenty in high grades too (think Forada,Sella,Gandia)Alquezar - very sunny. Good for coldest months or if tufas wet at RodellarAnnotArco - not bad, but nothing special. Nice steep climbing, but quite humid mid summer. Lovely town and cafesBaltzolaBerdorf - Large version of Font with grid bolting. Worth looking at if you are in the area. Gets VERY busy at weekends for obvious reasonsBuoux - didn't excite me that much. Too much faffing around on a million limestone pockets for my likingCatalunyaCavallersCeuseChateauvertChironicoClaret - looks a bit scruffy but the climbing is good. Pumpy if you're unfit. Possible in summer (shade from about 18h00), great on sunny winters days. Nearby Thaurac is a bit more year-round.CrescianoCuenca - looks polished sharp and nasty (Not the sectors that I have been too)Dolomites - mega for trad and via ferrata, rubbish for sport climbing. Yes ACE via ferrata!El Chorro - a very long drive. Only suitable for coldest monthsFontainebleau - never heard of it, fontainwhat?FrankenjuraFreyr - vertical polished, old schoolGorge du LoupGorges du Tarn - too hot mid summer, possible to cold/wet in winter, very good in between. Very cold in winterGorges du Verdon - mega. Totally brilliant. Seek out the less travelled parts. Good for scary slacklines!HyltebergenInterlakenKalymnosKjugekullLebakLehnLes Eaux ClairesLofotenMagic WoodMargalefMeshiaMisja PecMontenejosMontsantOrpierre - a bit drab compared to nearby CeusePfalzRodellar - best months mid sept to early novRussan - Solar oven. Winter only. Occasionally dodgy carpark (might be best to park a van in the village and walk an extra km or so) beautiful setting, varied climbing (grey slabs, tufa, monster roofs)Santalinya - very sunny, only suitable for oldest monthsSardinia - hard/expensive to get to by van! Also not as friendly or good climbing as Spain/France/ItalySchlier WasserfallSeynes - Fully s-facing, winter only, lots of tufa.Siurana - Good base for the other crags in the area. Limited in the easy gradesSokolikiSt Leger - Excellent. Nice and steep, mellow place and good parking. Nice stream.SustenpassTargassoneTerradetsTete de Chien - Is this Font?Tetto di SarreTres Pont - lots of shade good escape if too hot at TerradetsVal Di Mello - Very beautiful valley with everything to throw yourself at (bouldering/trad/sport/big wall). Don't go when the festival is on. Second this - totally amazing. Go any time after end of April and before OctVenueVolx - if you want to climb juggy caves Spain has many MUCH better ones than thisVoralpseeZillertal
Ailefroide - Don't bother with the bouldering, but the trad is goodAlbarracinAlicante - Whole region will be warmer in the winter. Better for Nat but plenty in high grades too (think Forada,Sella,Gandia)Alquezar - very sunny. Good for coldest months or if tufas wet at RodellarAnnotArco - not bad, but nothing special. Nice steep climbing, but quite humid mid summer. Lovely town and cafesBaltzolaBerdorf - Large version of Font with grid bolting. Worth looking at if you are in the area. Gets VERY busy at weekends for obvious reasonsBuoux - didn't excite me that much. Too much faffing around on a million limestone pockets for my likingCatalunyaCavallersCeuseChateauvertChironicoClaret - looks a bit scruffy but the climbing is good. Pumpy if you're unfit. Possible in summer (shade from about 18h00), great on sunny winters days. Nearby Thaurac is a bit more year-round.CrescianoCuenca - looks polished sharp and nasty (Not the sectors that I have been too)Dolomites - mega for trad and via ferrata, rubbish for sport climbing. Yes ACE via ferrata!El Chorro - a very long drive. Only suitable for coldest monthsFontainebleau - never heard of it, fontainwhat?FrankenjuraFreyr - vertical polished, old schoolGorge du LoupGorges du Tarn - too hot mid summer, possible to cold/wet in winter, very good in between. Very cold in winterGorges du Verdon - mega. Totally brilliant. Seek out the less travelled parts. Good for scary slacklines!HyltebergenInterlakenKalymnosKjugekullLebakLehnLes Eaux ClairesLofotenMagic WoodMargalefMeshiaMisja PecMontenejosMontsantOrpierre - a bit drab compared to nearby CeusePfalzRodellar - best months mid sept to early novRussan - Solar oven. Winter only. Occasionally dodgy carpark (might be best to park a van in the village and walk an extra km or so) beautiful setting, varied climbing (grey slabs, tufa, monster roofs)Santalinya - very sunny, only suitable for oldest monthsSardinia - hard/expensive to get to by van! Also not as friendly or good climbing as Spain/France/ItalySchlier WasserfallSeynes - Fully s-facing, winter only, lots of tufa.Siurana - Good base for the other crags in the area. Limited in the easy gradesSokolikiSt Leger - Excellent. Nice and steep, mellow place and good parking. Nice stream.SustenpassTargassoneTerradetsTete de Chien - Is this Font?Tetto di SarreTres Pont - lots of shade good escape if too hot at TerradetsVal Di Mello - Very beautiful valley with everything to throw yourself at (bouldering/trad/sport/big wall). Don't go when the festival is on. Second this - totally amazing. Go any time after end of April and before OctVenueVolx - if you want to climb juggy caves Spain has many MUCH better ones than thisVoralpseeZillertal
Why unwelcome in Magic Wood?
has anyone got any more specific beta on via ferrata in the dolomites? Good place to aim for, any particular route that was good? (A good book?)Thanks,Paul(unwelcome in magic wood)